That was the plan originally, I'm not sure if I will now or not. I'll decide once I get the body and the other stuff on there.Nice looking motor 8)
Are you planing on putting the holes in that rear plate.
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Guido: Scale TTC Bronco 2015 Scale Nats Updates
- Thread starter Grizzly4x4
- Start date
Thanks, The wheels are new, they are a limited run though. Troy only made a few sets and I was lucky enough to be one of the few to get them. He won't make any more.
I have Troy's wide adapters on the front and they put the front end at 10.5". The rears have the standard adapter that came with the wheels and the rear axle is at 10".
ecoli
I wanna be Dave
Why the wide adapters on the front? Needed to clear steering? Just curious, as most people seem to run it the other way around (narrower front, wider rear).
That is in correct. Most people run wider in the front. It helps get the rear through gates, it helps the rear track better, it gets better traction in the rear running in slightly different tracks in snow, mud, sand and it helps get more steering out of the front.
Most chevy truck were like that back in the day, hell they might still be.
Most people run wider in the front. See below. 8)
Thanks Pat. 8)
Jason is correct. I did it to help with steering clearance, make it easier to get the rear through gates, and to add a little stability. But it'll help in the TTC mud and truck pull as well.
Every Ford truck with solid axles is wider in the front than the rear. The front axle I swapped in my Bronc is about 2" wider than the rear. It might have been 2" per side even. I'd have to check. You can really see it on the 90's Chevy 4x4 trucks with IFS. The front is noticeably wider. Desert trucks are setup like that too.
HITMAN
Rock Crawler
WOW, this rig gets better everytime, sick work"thumbsup"
ecoli
I wanna be Dave
My bad. Typing before thinking. Makes complete sense to me now "thumbsup"
5150bronco
RCC Addict
that is awesome. i definitely want to make some of those spring buckets... for my early bronco build. "thumbsup"
Nabil
no talent hack
i think i see the theme you are going for "thumbsup"
green and black 4 life!
green and black 4 life!
XSRCdesign
I wanna be Dave
I can't wait for next week already!
I know normally people ask for body off shots, but we're gonna need some body on shots!
chino63
Oppan Gangnam Style
Wow, that's coming along really nice. Looks like it's going to be hard to beat in the TTC!! "thumbsup"
Thanks Rodney, I was hoping I could. 8)
Thanks Hitman. Gotta try and keep up with WarPig. 8)
WORD YO!!! 8) :ror:
Thanks 5150, you should make some. "thumbsup"
Yes sir! "thumbsup" Green and Black for Life!
:ror: It's impossible to keep everyone happy around here. :ror: The chassis is finally a full roller now so after I get the electronics in I will work on painting the body and other details.
Thanks Chino. I just hope to be able to keep up with that FJ-45 of yours. I am definitely happy with how the suspension changes worked out though. 8)
So I've been fighting this fuel cell and mounting my electronics all weekend. With the gizmos I am adding I will have to do the 5ch mod to my DX3 so that means I need to run 2 RX's. Well I couldn't figure out how to get everything boxed up so I went back to my sheetmetal fuel cell. I had tried to seal up the sides of the box with JB weld but that failed miserably. I am now using Shoe Goo and hopefully that will work. The fuel cell has room for 2 RX's, the ESC, and 2 BEC's.
I also got the tranny mounted to the belly pan. I had to gind off some of the East End Machining motor mount to clear the frame and link mounts but it all fits now. The 32 pitch gears will prevent grit from getting in the gears and locking things up. Something I learned happens easily with 48 pitch gears when I was driving Pepe in the creek recently. Check out that rear driveshaft, that is a full length Maxx shaft about 6" long. :shock::ror:
I also disassembled the Quicksand winch and regreased it. It's now nestled in it's home.
Here is the only thing that has gone completely right during this whole build. I added a servo to the console to shift from 7.4V to 14.4V from the radio. I was lucky because I used a Tamiya ball end for the shift knob so a quick dig in the parts bin came up with a rod end that popped right on the shifter. Tested it out today and it works perfect. Now I can shift into low for the rocks and high for the mud without a touch penalty. "thumbsup" I didn't want any exposed electronics on Guido but because of the rules I have no choice.
Thanks for looking guys. Back to work....
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racerx
I wanna be Dave
How hard would it be to dremel out the underside of the drivers arm so the linkage is hidden inside of it... making it look like he is shifting???
Just gets better and better Chris. Love the new look and like Jason was asking, I can wait to see the new body painted up. I know it's too close for you to make it next weekend for the scale comp, but I hope to see Guido in action once you get back from Montana!
Hmmmm, I'll have to check that Robb. Good idea. "thumbsup" Even if I can't, DJ's arm will sit right above it so it wont be too noticeable.
Awww man. I didn't realize I was gonna miss another scale comp......damn.
Well, I'll see what I can get done this week. If I get it running I could throw on the yellow body panels and take him for a spin. Concourse judging isn't until after running courses so it's not like scratches are a big problem. :ror:
Thanks Todd. 8)
racerx
I wanna be Dave
Maybe all you have to do is zip tie his arm to it??? All depends on how well (loose) his arm can move, don't want it to bind when you need it most!! Would suck to go for low gear and be stuck in high because his roid swollen arm decided it didn't want to move.
