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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

I don't believe mine is hacked but is there a way to confirm? It does seem that it it was hacked and the throttle was not correctly calibrated it could explain my issue.

You should still be able to calibrate your stock radio.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elec...ck-question-answer-thread-15.html#post3213031

If your trigger doesn't create a range of numbers (when "2" is displayed during the calibration procedure) from roughly zero to roughly 1000 then you have a bad throttle potentiometer. Otherwise calibration should fix your issue.

You may also have to reverse the throttle channel.


Also make sure your EPA's and Dual Rate adjustment is turned all the way up so they aren't limiting your throw....and make sure ABS is turned off
 
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You should still be able to calibrate your stock radio.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elec...ck-question-answer-thread-15.html#post3213031

If your trigger doesn't create a range of numbers (when "2" is displayed during the calibration procedure) from roughly zero to roughly 1000 then you have a bad throttle potentiometer. Otherwise calibration should fix your issue.

You may also have to reverse the throttle channel.


Also make sure your EPA's and Dual Rate adjustment is turned all the way up so they aren't limiting your throw....and make sure ABS is turned off

Well, looks like I have a bad pot. Gave the cal a try and for ch2 the range was something like 350 to 650 (ch1 was 0 to 900). Bit the bullet and order up a new system. Guess I have some spares.

Thanks for the input on the calibration. I'm not happy with the result but at least it proved I wasn't crazy and that it was something with the tx.
 
Why does my winch spool in when I turn the TX on? Warn winch, HeyOk winch controller, prehacked GT3B by Losikid. Controller on channel 4, mapped to channel 3 slide switch, momentary operation. As soon as the radio powers up the winch spools in. I have to hit the slider forward an it stops, then functions just fine. No drift. Both Forward, and reverse endpoint set at 100, -100 respectively.

I should add, channel 3 slider is set to reverse. As there was no polarity when I soldered the HeyOk controller. And I wanted forward=out, back=in
 
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Sorry for asking this but I'm computer handicapped. I had a winch set up previously on my 3rd channel. Now I would like to return it to stock and just use the 3rd ch for my mmx auxiliary wire. All I want to do is activate and deactivate my drag brake in my bomber.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for asking this but I'm computer handicapped. I had a winch set up previously on my 3rd channel. Now I would like to return it to stock and just use the 3rd ch for my mmx auxiliary wire. All I want to do is activate and deactivate my drag brake in my bomber.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
But the drag brake is built into the esc....... or do you have an esc like the one in the twin hammers where you can pull the jumper out to turn it on or off? If thought of putting a switch and micro servo on it so i can push a button and switch it on or off on the fly. But i don't think the esc would like it.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Just looked into it. Realised you are talking about the castle mamba x esc. I see it has an aux function. Pretty cool idea. Might need one for the twin hammers I think.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Just looked into it. Realised you are talking about the castle mamba x esc. I see it has an aux function. Pretty cool idea. Might need one for the twin hammers I think.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Cool feature. Just have no idea how to return my ch3 button back to stock so it will operate as a 2 position switch. Click once drag brake enabled. Click again drag brake off.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk
 
Losikid ,,If I wanted one repaired would you do it ,,

It would cost more than buying a new one....But I parts are usually pretty cheap if you want to repair yourself

Well, looks like I have a bad pot. Gave the cal a try and for ch2 the range was something like 350 to 650 (ch1 was 0 to 900). Bit the bullet and order up a new system. Guess I have some spares.

Thanks for the input on the calibration. I'm not happy with the result but at least it proved I wasn't crazy and that it was something with the tx.

I might have a spare pot...

Why does my winch spool in when I turn the TX on? Warn winch, HeyOk winch controller, prehacked GT3B by Losikid. Controller on channel 4, mapped to channel 3 slide switch, momentary operation. As soon as the radio powers up the winch spools in. I have to hit the slider forward an it stops, then functions just fine. No drift. Both Forward, and reverse endpoint set at 100, -100 respectively.

I should add, channel 3 slider is set to reverse. As there was no polarity when I soldered the HeyOk controller. And I wanted forward=out, back=in

You need to turn off the channel 3 button
Long click REV
Scroll to C, Press enter
Scroll to OFF, Press and hold enter then back/end afew times

Sorry for asking this but I'm computer handicapped. I had a winch set up previously on my 3rd channel. Now I would like to return it to stock and just use the 3rd ch for my mmx auxiliary wire. All I want to do is activate and deactivate my drag brake in my bomber.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Easiest way is to start a new model memory...

Long click REV
Scroll to the switch the winch is on, press enter
Scroll to OFF or choose the stock function (like ST3)
Press enter-LONG then back/end afew times

now
Long Click REV
Scroll to C, press enter
Scroll to CH3, Press and hold enter then back/end afew times

Cool feature. Just have no idea how to return my ch3 button back to stock so it will operate as a 2 position switch. Click once drag brake enabled. Click again drag brake off.

Sent from my SM-T320 using Tapatalk

See above
 
I have a gtb3 that channel one doesnt do anything, its new, unmodded, the rx binds, the esc works great, but after trying different servos and a new rx still no steering inputs. do you think this is a radio issue?
 
I have a gtb3 that channel one doesnt do anything, its new, unmodded, the rx binds, the esc works great, but after trying different servos and a new rx still no steering inputs. do you think this is a radio issue?
Assuming it's not an external BEC issue does it work with your old transmitter? Have you tried making another model memory to make sure it's not a setting?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
Assuming it's not an external BEC issue does it work with your old transmitter? Have you tried making another model memory to make sure it's not a setting?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

I tried with and without external bec, tried a different model, triple checked my settings. I dont have a free rx/tx, but the odd thing is that the trim does move the servo, just nothing from the wheel input........
 
I'm new to FS-GT3B and been reading but cant find answers to:

  1. To do 4-mode steering (Front/Rear/Front+Rear/Front+Rear Crabbing) do you need a 6ch RX? Or can I do this with 3ch? (1 ESC, 2 servo?)
  2. Related to above, is it quick/easy to switch between these modes with a touch of a button (rather than several clicks or model swapping, etc)?
  3. The "Supported RX" list I found was confusing, showing HobbKing rx's rather than FlySky. What RX do I need? (any with AFHDS protocol, right?)
  4. Is there any significant difference between GT3B, GT3C, or GTX3 that I should be aware of before purchasing and hacking?

If you know, please reply, thank you!
 
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You need a 3chanel RX minimum, but the 6ch will work and have extra channels

It can be setup to switch modes more than one way, they all seem easy to me

Compatible RXs are listed on page 1. They are branded as HobbyKing, FlySky, Turnigy, and a few others. The axial AR-3 is also compatible.

Also is FLYsky Frysky is something else and I don't believe it's compatible

The GT3c is the newer version of the GT3B, they perform the same functions however the GT3C has a lipo from the factory as well as I believe the upgraded voltage regulator. Some say the GT3C has better ergonomics



Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
You need a 3chanel RX minimum, but the 6ch will work and have extra channels

It can be setup to switch modes more than one way, they all seem easy to me

Compatible RXs are listed on page 1. They are branded as HobbyKing, FlySky, Turnigy, and a few others. The axial AR-3 is also compatible.

Also is FLYsky Frysky is something else and I don't believe it's compatible

The GT3c is the newer version of the GT3B, they perform the same functions however the GT3C has a lipo from the factory as well as I believe the upgraded voltage regulator. Some say the GT3C has better ergonomics

"Holy awesome reply batman". Thanks! (oh, I meant FlySky, and so I edited my original post, thanks for that catch).
 
Anyone actually look into what the brass tube on the r6b actually does and what has actually worked when removed..... And yes I know its coaxial and the outer is burned to the brass with inner extending out
I've definitely seen a post about it somewhere, though I don't remember where. I bet a Google search with the model # and antenna as the key word might help. I can't seem to remember a definite answer, but I believe it wasn't much of an issue at first, then they put it back because of range issues. I doubt it would be an issue for a crawler if that's the case. Considering how cheap and plentiful the receivers are give it a shot and see if it works for you.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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