Also a good idea. I'm thinking of buying this since I'm limited on space and would love to be able to turn some of my own parts.
The one a friend of mine has I never have time to use it when its available plus its a little above my skill level.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Also a good idea. I'm thinking of buying this since I'm limited on space and would love to be able to turn some of my own parts.
The one a friend of mine has I never have time to use it when its available plus its a little above my skill level.
I played with my front tubes last night and that lip hes talking about is whats hitting the bearing like you showed me. "thumbsup"
Thats actually a neat little unit, pull it off the shelf run it and blow it off type deal.
Well after getting very frustrated with the bully 2 cvds and breaking a few more. I finally ordered the bearings I need to test out the uni mod. I also ordered these shims I found here.
Ordered the bearings from avid rc. And I love the price and they always seem to ship the same day. And its fast. Love ordering from a site like that.
I decided to grab some 5x10x3 instead of removing that bearing all together just to keep my not so perfect shafts running smooth I hope.
Ordered the bearings from avid rc. And I love the price and they always seem to ship the same day. And its fast. Love ordering from a site like that.
I decided to grab some 5x10x3 instead of removing that bearing all together just to keep my not so perfect shafts running smooth I hope.
cloudswimmer
Quarry Creeper
I'm watching this with interest. How hard have you been pushing the rig when you busted these?
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Damn I haven't broke a cvd yet but I got spares. You shouldn't be breaking them that quick. Im running steering bump stops now to help keep my shafts alive. You should definitely do it too.
cloudswimmer
Quarry Creeper
Your not breaking anything Yoda because you DO have spares lol. When I started carrying spares in my 1:1 Jeep thats when I stopped breaking stuff .. I'd drive like I had an egg between my foot and accelerator pedal thinking 'dang I don't wanna break my tie rod and have to get out and put the spare in' :mrgreen:
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I didn't know I needed spares, I'm doing something wrong then.
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Well I may drive hard but my steering servo doesn't have enough torque to hold my wheels from going to far. Not nearly the abuse something like this should be able to take. By the way I was going slow not full throttle not trying to flip over or anything. Just had torque on the wheels trying to get over something.
Bump stops should be stock. But yes they would help but I'm not getting anymore. The xr unis in my scx10 go lock to lock with no binding. And I beat that thing just as hard if not harder.
Have been running the rock grabbers though. They work great around here.
Also obviously need a new servo .I'm getting there.
Bump stops should be stock. But yes they would help but I'm not getting anymore. The xr unis in my scx10 go lock to lock with no binding. And I beat that thing just as hard if not harder.
Have been running the rock grabbers though. They work great around here.
Also obviously need a new servo .I'm getting there.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
First thing I did was set my EPs I'm only running the PM , but it seems adequate for my needs.
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
End points dont matter with a crappy weak servo. You also have flux knuckles which have stops on them.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I looked at Eriks video for the stopscrews and yes I have the holes, but my screws would be soooo long they will catch.
I might be stupid, but cannot see short screws working as stops
Hang up and Drive
I might be stupid, but cannot see short screws working as stops
Hang up and Drive
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
They wont be that long. Thread it in a few turns and put a nut to tighten it and your good. They won't catch on anything either.
Cool! Looks super legit to me! Looks like it could even come in towards the gear box if anything, which is a great thing.
Now that just makes me curious if the stock CVD is lined up in the kingpin? Might be a clue as to why so many people break the stock ones? Its either that or RC4wd just counts on the stock CVD drifting to the center?
Now that just makes me curious if the stock CVD is lined up in the kingpin? Might be a clue as to why so many people break the stock ones? Its either that or RC4wd just counts on the stock CVD drifting to the center?
Hopefully the shims I ordered get it where it needs to be but when I turn the tires they seem to turn very smooth no matter how turned they are. But thats a good point. I dont think there is room to drift with the cvd between the bearings but it would explain a lot. I think most of my breakage was due to not having a strong enough servo to hold my end points. So it would get bound up and try to push the wheels over even more than they could normally turn. Bump stops might've solved the problem but I was not happy with the amount of steering the cvds had anyway. Very excited to try them. This set wasn't made the best so I'll be looking to make a new set.
Or get you to start making the dlux ones again. :mrgreen:
Yeah... today is not the day to get me to start making parts that people have a hard time with.... LOL.
IMO, if the shafts spin smooth and the eye ball says they are centered, thats pretty good and probably good enough.
I am just super curious how you can put the axial shaft in the knuckle and it lines up and you can also put the B2 CVD in and its lines up also. As you can see by the pic below, the shoulder that both shafts have where they meet the inner bearing are different. That has to be made up somewhere.....
IMO, if the shafts spin smooth and the eye ball says they are centered, thats pretty good and probably good enough.
I am just super curious how you can put the axial shaft in the knuckle and it lines up and you can also put the B2 CVD in and its lines up also. As you can see by the pic below, the shoulder that both shafts have where they meet the inner bearing are different. That has to be made up somewhere.....
Attachments
The inner bearing is thinner when you swap over to XR's ....... 3mm vs 4mm (rc4wd) I believe.
But ... it really makes me think/wonder, will the XR knuckle fit and work with this on an 8* RC4WD C-hub? My eye ball told me yes when I lined things up on the bench. Gotta order C's though to try at home myself.
If you can find a 10x16x3, yeah, youre all set. I have never found one though so unless the B2 is 8x16x5 that shouldnt be the case.
The XR/Wraith chub should be a hair taller (.007) than the B2 chub so with some grinding, its easily done. Only bad part (if you agree with me that is) is that you are forced to go 8*. For those who do not know, you can put Dlux knuckles on the B2 with an axial stub with no mods. This is good if you dont want to go 8* or want to spend the extra money on the 8* chubs.
Last edited:
Im an 8* fan, define 'bad' lmao :mrgreen:
But was hoping to try the difference once I did swap over to the B2 front axle. "thumbsup"
I was going by what Hoppa posted for bearing sizes but I cant remember for sure what was what ones.
