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Evos bully 2 rtr

So I believe the inner bearing is normally 5mm on the knuckle. The outer one is 3.5mm. So now the outer bearing hangs out .5mm and the inner bearing sits in a full millimeter. Because they are both 4mm now. That explains the difference in length between axial and b2 shafts.

Also. I have xr/wraith 8* knuckle and chubs on my scx10 how would the 8* help? And I can do some testing before you buy anything if you want robbob. I don't know what brand they are though.
And yes those are the bearings. Took one of each, on each side.
 
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Evo93 said:
So I believe the inner bearing is normally 5mm on the knuckle. The outer one is 3.5mm. So now the outer bearing hangs out .5mm and the inner bearing sits in a full millimeter. Because they are both 4mm now. That explains the difference in length between axial and b2 shafts.

Also. I have xr/wraith 8* knuckle and chubs on my scx10 how would the 8* help? And I can do some testing before you buy anything if you want robbob. I don't know what brand they are though.
And yes those are the bearings. Took one of each, on each side.
Click to expand...


If youre up to trying ..... I got my 8* stuff on its way lol. But Im farther out on an axle swap so if it works for you thats great.

8* and non is preference in my opinion.

Its kind of a community disagreement on what is better. For me I like the 8* for the response and easyness I feel in my front end. Ive been on non 8* when I drove my Losi but that was so long ago I cant say I honestly remember any pros or cons.

When I switched to MOA it was on 8* so I got accustomed to it and Ive always liked how it felt.

I do want to try going back and see if I still feel the same.

Others say the up hill turning and climb ability on and off dig are beneficial with non 8*. Again I cant knock it but for me the XR setup works. Erik is really the one to better explain the Pros of non 8*
 
I've come to like the steering on my Scx10 a lot. But I can't tell if its because better turning Radius, better servo. Or if its the 8*. Either way it steers like a boss.very excited to try these unis though. Gunna be a bit till I get a new servo. My 1:1 needs my attention lol

I misunderstood, I thought the 8* was required. But I think I will have a rain day tomorrow and plan on doing some tinkering so I will let you know.
 
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Its kinda like.... if you dont know or cant tell, it probably does not matter....

I like to ride bikes. Some people always want me to do stuff like ditch the valve cap on my wheels to lose 1gram. Does it make a difference? Yeah, probably at a pro level. I am so far from a pro level that it does not matter. There are lots of other low hanging fruit that I could deal with before those little things.

Its just something to focus on when your car and driving get to a point where you continuously look for things to improve on. For the normal guy.... meh
 
From what I understand the 8* puts the kingpin lined up with the contact patch on the tire. Kinda like this but my wheels hang out a bit too much.

The more you space the wheel out or add caster you lose the advantages of the 8*.
So I'm thinking I like my scx10 to be more realistic ie not as much caster. And I like tons of caster on my bully and I plan on putting spacers on so I think the 8* would be a waste of time for the bully. At least thats what I gathered.
8* also helps return the steering back to centered which I also dont care about on the bully. Not like I'm trailing and worrying about bump steer as with the scx10.
If I'm wrong please correct me.
 
Evo93 said:
From what I understand the 8* puts the kingpin lined up with the contact patch on the tire. Kinda like this but my wheels hang out a bit too much.

The more you space the wheel out or add caster you lose the advantages of the 8*.
So I'm thinking I like my scx10 to be more realistic ie not as much caster. And I like tons of caster on my bully and I plan on putting spacers on so I think the 8* would be a waste of time for the bully. At least thats what I gathered.
8* also helps return the steering back to centered which I also dont care about on the bully. Not like I'm trailing and worrying about bump steer as with the scx10.
If I'm wrong please correct me.
Click to expand...

I dont have a technical engineering type answer for that but can tell you this much if it helps....

The more caster you put into a 8* the more chassis jacking you create. Ie: You will transfer weight off that inside tire to the opposite rear tire. If youre not prepared for that then its havok on a course.

8* create a axle raise and drop effect, increase caster increases that effect. Think of it as going up to center then back down when you turn lock to lock. You can see it on an XR axle when you turn the wheels back and forth, the axle will always rise up on the inside tire.

8* helps scrub radius for wide setups - it actually puts the kingpin more inline with your contact patch.
 
Got my shims in today. Ended up using 2 in each side. Also had to put a 2mm shim in the hex to hold it from going in too far and binding against the bearing that sticks out so far. If I was going to recommend this axle swap I would say use a 3.5mm bearing if they make one.
I'll probably swap mine out. At least it will be ready for a new servo when I can afford one.
I also made a new steering link from some 3/16 rod and tapped the ends 10-24. Not perfect but it was my first time making a link. So heres all my new steering! Also threw in a picture of the bearing that hangs out too far.



 
Where is you battery tray bro? Are you running your battery somewhere on the chassis instead of over the axle?
 
cloudswimmer said:
Where is you battery tray bro? Are you running your battery somewhere on the chassis instead of over the axle?
Click to expand...

I moved my ESC to the back of the chassis. And put the battery between the front links. It hits right now when you push straight down on the suspension but it can still fully articulate. And it allows me to use all my new steering capability without hitting my battery with these knobby tires. They dont fit on the skid so they are strapped to the chassis cross braces. I like having the weight centered too.
 
Cool! How do you like those XT60 connectors? I have several sets of both Deans and XT60's laying around here and could go either way. All my batteries came with Deans .. but my ESC came with an XT60
 
cloudswimmer said:
Cool! How do you like those XT60 connectors? I have several sets of both Deans and XT60's laying around here and could go either way. All my batteries came with Deans .. but my ESC came with an XT60
Click to expand...

Stick to what you have the most of and what people around you run too. That way you can swap battery or if you need to borrow one from a friend, it makes life easier."thumbsup"
 
84yoda said:
Stick to what you have the most of and what people around you run too. That way you can swap battery or if you need to borrow one from a friend, it makes life easier."thumbsup"
Click to expand...

Thats good advice thanks. I'm just gonna stick with Deans for the Bully for now, all my other rigs and batteries are Deans, and I've never had trouble soldering em.
 
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