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Evos bully 2 rtr

The bearing part of it is what I have never understood on this mod.... How are you going to line up the center of the joint in the center of the kingpin? They dont make a 10x16x3 bearing AFAIK.

I've been trying to figure this out. In hoppas build thread he shows 5x12x4, 10x16x4, and 5x10x3 not sure why he has the 5x10x3 in there.
Sorry for the noob question but when you say kingpin you mean where the chub and knuckle bolt together? Thats where the center of the joint needs to ride?
 

Finally got my replacement parts just in time for comp day. They sent me a new gearbox, gears and enough bearings for the gears. And a set of tubes for some reason. Noticed a crack in my rim hopefully it makes it through the day..
She's lookin decent though. Covered up my roof panel with stickers since the paints falling off.

Also got my castle bec put in. Hopefully gives my crappy servo a bit more juice.
 
Where's the crack in your rim? I cracked a rim beyond repair a while back. Since getting a new set, I've been thinking about putting spacers in the middle to connect the beadlock screws. When I got my new rims, one of them wasn't machined in the middle like they normal are, and I wish they were all like that. Would be way stronger.
 
I cracked rim too. Just in the middle of the plastic. I'm thinking to try new rims... it seems that bully rims are not quality enough...
 
There isn't a lot of choices for CF/delrin beadlocks but I'm thinkin about getting some from dlux. There priced about the same as stock B2 rims but will be better quality.
 
as far as rtr mos gos that dose not sound to bad I changed everthing on my bully 2 but to each there own test and tune and you will love those axles I know I do also look into the krazed builds kr4 rear axle a lot lighter than the bully 2 rear axle helps balance out the rig
 
I've been trying to figure this out. In hoppas build thread he shows 5x12x4, 10x16x4, and 5x10x3 not sure why he has the 5x10x3 in there.
Sorry for the noob question but when you say kingpin you mean where the chub and knuckle bolt together? Thats where the center of the joint needs to ride?

I am guessing the 5x10 shows up inside the tube?

Yes, the center of the screws where the chub and knuckle bolt together is defined as your king pin, or for this purpose, its the center of the rotating joint for the steering.

The center of the axle ujoint needs to ride there. Can it work if its not, yeah, will it cause problems? Yeah. Will those problems be too big to ignore? I dunno.

Its like a jacket that has very stiff arms except for where your elbows sit. If your elbow does not sit in that spot where the jacket is soft enough to bend, its going to be weird to move your arms and cause lots of problems.
 
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I think I found hoppas answer to this problem.

The problem is that the shaft needs to move towards the hex, not the gear box. If you look at your pic above, its more clear. You have the shafts lined up, the center of the joints are aligned but if you look where the inner bearing sits, the inner bearing needs to sit FURTHER in on the Axial shaft than the B2.
 
The problem is that the shaft needs to move towards the hex, not the gear box. If you look at your pic above, its more clear. You have the shafts lined up, the center of the joints are aligned but if you look where the inner bearing sits, the inner bearing needs to sit FURTHER in on the Axial shaft than the B2.

When I put them in they are too far towards the hex. I will add a picture to this post when I get home. Granted I still dont have bearings to really line things up the rest of the way. But with that collar up against the 5x10x4 in the axle tube it sits about a mm to far towards the hex. But I think if I pull it back the pin hole might not be all the way through the knuckle. Going to take a bit of tinkering.
 
To put it another way, I make B2 knuckles and I make Axial knuckles. I have to bore the bearing hole deeper in the Axial knuckle...

Well.... maybe you come up with something different for some reason?
 
Yes and with the failure rate Ive seen on the B2 cvd's its worth the swap just for insurance. ;-)

That's why I carry spare shafts. Lol.

Wraith chubs/knuckles and uni's would be nice for sure.

Maybe when you make a front housing, this could be done? :mrgreen:
 
Wraith chubs/knuckles and uni's would be nice for sure.

Maybe when you make a front housing, this could be done? :mrgreen:

We call that an XR front axle :lmao:

Ill let someone else figure out a simpler conversion fit ;-)
 

This looks to me to be too far out. And the collar on the axle shaft is up against the 5x10x4 in the tube. I'm not sure why you'd need to drill the axial bearings in deeper. But I'm sure they are completely different kingpin designs. Not sure..
Robbob told me to take the bearing at the end of the tube right out and let it float. Which I might do. There is bearings everywhere. But I might want my machine work a little smoother before I do that in my bully.
Especially with the stock crappy bearings.

As far as better steering.. I bought a scaler last weekend with an xr axle conversion. Ground down in all the right spots. And man can that thing turns never binds. And everyone says they are a lot stronger for some reason.
Here's my scx10 steering it also has 8* knuckle setup on it though. So much steering.

 
I did this.. I put the shaft on the lathe and grinded one mm of the little collar. Shaft needs to sit in one mm back more to make it centered to the chub and knuckle the right way.

To bad I don't have pics anymore. Maybe somewhere in a build thread... Not sure

Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 6P met Tapatalk
 
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