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Evos bully 2 rtr

So if I was going to buy big bores that don't need to be limited I'd buy the tra2660 ones? 3.5" i believe I read somewhere. And add the cap mod to extend the fronts to 4"?

I just bought all mine today and found a good price on the full set. Go to Advantage Hobby and you can get the whole setup for $58 including springs and titanium hardware. Spend 59.99 and its free shipping so throw a new servo arm or something on there. You can sub the titanium for other screws.

http://www.advantagehobby.com/

TRA2660 2660 Big Bore Long Shocks
LOSB1117 Front Shock Springs (3pr)
TRA2742X 2742X Rod Ends & Hollow Ball T-Mx
DTXBHP310 BHP310 Titanium Button Hex Screw M3x10
 
I just bought all mine today and found a good price on the full set. Go to Advantage Hobby and you can get the whole setup for $58 including springs and titanium hardware. Spend 59.99 and its free shipping so throw a new servo arm or something on there. You can sub the titanium for other screws.

Advantage Hobby :: www.AdvantageHobby.com

TRA2660 2660 Big Bore Long Shocks
LOSB1117 Front Shock Springs (3pr)
TRA2742X 2742X Rod Ends & Hollow Ball T-Mx
DTXBHP310 BHP310 Titanium Button Hex Screw M3x10

They really have good prices. Unfortunately ... $30 for shipping to Europe .. for springs only ... wtf
 
I just bought all mine today and found a good price on the full set. Go to Advantage Hobby and you can get the whole setup for $58 including springs and titanium hardware. Spend 59.99 and its free shipping so throw a new servo arm or something on there. You can sub the titanium for other screws.

Advantage Hobby ::*www.AdvantageHobby.com

TRA2660 2660 Big Bore Long Shocks
LOSB1117 Front Shock Springs (3pr)
TRA2742X 2742X Rod Ends & Hollow Ball T-Mx
DTXBHP310 BHP310 Titanium Button Hex Screw M3x10

Thanks a bunch but did you do the cap mod in the front? Also what did you use for spring cups

Ordered myself the same list of parts. Plus went on dlux and ordered the dravtech servo mount and his no preloaded shock cups. Now the waiting game again.
 
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Thanks a bunch but did you do the cap mod in the front? Also what did you use for spring cups

Ordered myself the same list of parts. Plus went on dlux and ordered the dravtech servo mount and his no preloaded shock cups. Now the waiting game again.


Im waiting atm as well. I and using the spring cups that come with the shocks. Also if you have some extra rod ends and trimmed them, you can use the trimmed pieces as spacers for internal shock limiters. It appears only the front 2 caps have to be modded....?
 
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So it will be alright that the rears will be longer than the originals? And also I'm pretty sure I've seen the rears run upside down with no cap mod.

Yes they will be a little longer, you could limit them internally if you want. But honestly your links will hit before you bottom the shocks out so it all works out. Rod ends have more angle then running normal caps. I run my shocks on the outside of the mounts so I needed the added angle of a rod end. You'll have to mess with it when you get them.
 
I'm running the 4" in the rear, 3 3/4" up front, with the cap mod and bent ends up front total length front and rear is 4"
f9d02a62ee652386c9be45baddf3cf32.jpg

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56a0fb76f7dd84184219df2286e6947d.jpg



Hang up and Drive
 
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So tower sent me a 55 dollar ecash, trying to decide what upgrade I should buy, so far I'm thinking..
Either a set of wraith unis for 40, which sounds like a fun mod but I don't have the flux knuckles yet so Somewhat unnecessary but probably Money well spent.
Some sedonas, which I really don't need yet, for 50
Or if I could find a half decent servo I'd buy it but I doubt I will for that price.
Or maybe some new hubs. Look at these. hubs
Orrr a castle bec to replace this junk turbo one. Lol
Any suggestions?
Thinking of getting the wraith unis and castle bec for about 60 because it'd be the best use of the Money.
 
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The wraith shafts will work in stock bully 2 knuckles but you need different bearings and will have to add a bigger tang to both shafts.
 
The wraith shafts will work in stock bully 2 knuckles but you need different bearings and will have to add a bigger tang to both shafts.

Knew the bearings need to be changed didn't know the stock knuckle worked thanks I'll probably get those two. Best things I'll get for 60 bucks.
Thanks
 
Stock unis are pretty good, I've only heard of shafts breaking


Hang up and Drive

I'm talking an entire wraith axle set with real universals.
Stock is cvds. And I havent broken them and don't intend to throw the wraiths in right away but I do want to see if I can weld them and grind them down with what I have we shall find out.
I do plan on getting some spacers like you have though so I can fit my battery properly and get some more steering.
But they don't sell spacers on tower either. Or any one piece hubs except those hot racing which is two different widths so I'm just going to have to wait till dravtech is back in stock I like his hubs and spacers. And I have to spend this ecash by Monday. And I'd like my bec to be stronger plus then I can use my crappy one in my mad torque. Same goes for my hubs and dig when I do finally upgrade. If it hasn't burnt out. Figured it was a win win win situation.

So my orders being processed:mrgreen:
I have a problem.;-)
 
Starts at post #22:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/rc4wd-bully/500120-hoppas-b2da-2.html

He lists the bearings you need as well. Definitely post up some pictures when you get started.

Already listed in my favorites and read it a couple times. I have a welder and a grinder. And I also might be able to get access to a lathe/ mill which would be ideal. But we shall see. I'll be sure to take pictures, would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you for all the helpful information. I really appreciate it. "thumbsup"
 
Got my rpm rod ends in, thanks UGLY for the suggestion, went with green hoping it'd match my paint a little better but I think the blue woulda looked cooler and my dravtech servo mount came in. Didn't realize you have to use bolts and nuts to hold the servo down and the nut on the bottom hits the bolt holding the upper link mount.


Hoping it will be okay like this. The pressure won't crack the cf or anything I hope.

They are a little more puke colored than I was hoping but oh well, gives it character!
 
You could put your tie rod on top of the knuckles and drag link on top of that. Would help get the steering up higher and your drag link sitting straight. Also, can you fit your electronics on the front part of the skid? Would help cog. I had my ae5 and bec there.
 
You could put your tie rod on top of the knuckles and drag link on top of that. Would help get the steering up higher and your drag link sitting straight. Also, can you fit your electronics on the front part of the skid? Would help cog. I had my ae5 and bec there.

I was thinking of doing that. And I'll wait till my castle bec comes in before I redo everything. Thanks.
 
You could put your tie rod on top of the knuckles and drag link on top of that. Would help get the steering up higher and your drag link sitting straight. Also, can you fit your electronics on the front part of the skid? Would help cog. I had my ae5 and bec there.



Been there and forget that.
If you do that, you will need a hub spacer or you will have tire rub.
I have mine mounted below, drag link above then an extra long servo arm and a spacer....mine is now perfect.
6bade9af0e46da8df43852c8d6c6ec78.jpg

3465c8e68f5b1a7130deb61e33ddfc64.jpg


Oodles of turning, more than the axles allow
704e56af8c6d10e61fefeaf911c59629.jpg



Hang up and Drive
 
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