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Evos bully 2 rtr

Dlux Fab

Not sure if the traxxas shocks on the Dlux kit car are the same as yours. But they are traxxas plastic big bores..
If you modify traxxas plastic big bores be sure to share.
 
I'll let someone a little more tech savvy then I Answer your question.
However by adding internal spacer to the scx10 shocks it lower the COG center of gravity of your rig. The reason I remove external limiters is to gain back the lost shock travel..
I've been running my stock bodied scx10 shocks for yrs like in the video they work good for me..

More articulation doesn't make a better crawler.

You probably could modify your traxxas shocks.
I never have tried to run traxxas bigbores shocks so I can't help you there...

If you have the cash go to rcbros and order his already built scx10 shocks

That makes sense. Big bores aren't much cheaper than those. Those look nice. And I wouldn't have to find springs. Thanks.
Or I might just modify the plastics and grab the rcbros springs if they will fit.
 
Dlux Fab

Not sure if the traxxas shocks on the Dlux kit car are the same as yours. But they are traxxas plastic big bores..
If you modify traxxas plastic big bores be sure to share.

This is what I was playing around with earlier. But it seemed wrong to me. And I don't know if the losi mini t springs fit these. The bodies are slightly different than everyone else's. I was toying with a few lengths.




Might as well use them if I can but I need new spring cups to use mini t springs right?
 
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/enroute-berg/565882-dlux-kit-car.html

Have a look @ the above thread.. basically 1st post showing the shocks on the rig.

Do you have 4 of the short shocks?

As for your spring caps if you have any wb8 scx10 drive lines you could modify them into shock caps.

None of mine are short. I shortened them by putting the hollow balls inside. All 4 are 4 in. I shortened the rod a half an inch. And no scx10 parts just tmaxx.

Also, is this grease acceptable for lubing the gears? I have it and use it for everything.
 
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I don't see why not.. better then nothing lol.
I personally think Lucas red "n" tacky grease is better but just my opinion.

I use Lucas red "n" tacky grease for my all my rc gears.
 
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Got my panels painted by a friend of mine coated the inside with tape so they don't rub the paint off.
The snow melted off the rock wall today right before the big storm gets here tomorrow so I was able to get out on the rocks. Still waiting for my 850s so I was running the 1300 but it was a lot of fun got my first scratch too haha
 
Did you give up on the bully tires already? Rig looks good.

Thanks, and no just trying these out. Have really enjoyed them on my mad torque and wanted to see how bad they would rub when actually on the rocks they seemed really good but I need a new servo. Can't wait till I can order that shv500.
I'm also getting some glitching keeps moving forward when you let off and some weird stuff if you try to go fast in reverse,not that you'd need to. Not sure but seems like its the transmitter. So that's on the list right away. Be back to work soon with spring around the corner and I'll hopefully have it before I go meet the locals in April.
 
Did you calibrate the new ESC to the radio?

The ae5 says it auto calibrates? But also says for some transmitters it may be neccesarry but does not say how to? Not sure. The one on my mad torque works good with no calibration but it does not have a bec and has only seen 2s thus far.
 
None of mine are short. I shortened them by putting the hollow balls inside. All 4 are 4 in. I shortened the rod a half an inch. And no scx10 parts just tmaxx.

Also, is this grease acceptable for lubing the gears? I have it and use it for everything.

Thats moly grease with lithium "thumbsup", 110% acceptable and overkill (I use it too). Moly grease is for high pressure metal sliding against metal situations and is why its use on splines and pinion gears. In bearings where there are rollers or balls under the load regular fiber or lithium grease is used.
 
I'm also getting some glitching keeps moving forward when you let off and some weird stuff if you try to go fast in reverse,not that you'd need to. Not sure but seems like its the transmitter. So that's on the list right away. Be back to work soon with spring around the corner and I'll hopefully have it before I go meet the locals in April.
I had exactly the same problem on my berg. After calibration all get fixed.
 
Full throttle, beep, full reverse, beep, and neutral, then it'll beep again right?

Power on radio, Hold full throttle and power on ESC, beep, full reverse, beep, and neutral, then it'll beep again right?

Yes..
You can also look when you hear the beep in forward to see if green light lights up. Also in reverse to see if red light lights up.
I tried to find a YouTube video on the Ae5 calibration for you but no luck...

Esc calibration castle
https://youtu.be/vP4KGfEVKCk
 
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Power on radio, Hold full throttle and power on ESC, beep, full reverse, beep, and neutral, then it'll beep again right?

Yes..
You can also look when you hear the beep in forward to see if green light lights up. Also in reverse to see if red light lights up.
I tried to find a YouTube video on the Ae5 calibration for you but no luck...

Esc calibration castle
https://youtu.be/vP4KGfEVKCk

Nope no dice. Only calibrates in neutral. If I touch the trigger sometimes it comes out of the glitching. So I'm thinking its this controller. Not enough spring pressure to come to complete neutral. With the old ESC start up was delayed and coggy now its immediate and sometimes won't stop. Can't win. Lol.

And the blizzard turned to rain so it won't be long before I can be back on the rocks! At least that's a plus. And my batteries might come today. And some other goodies later this week...
 
So if I was going to buy big bores that don't need to be limited I'd buy the tra2660 ones? 3.5" i believe I read somewhere. And add the cap mod to extend the fronts to 4"?
 
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