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A little blue loctite and the knuckles are together.

Note, if you are running rpm arms you will need to clearance the knuckle or arm a little for full throw, and if you run STRC C's you will need to clearance the upper and lower grooves shown in this pic. It fits and works with stock C's and arms just fine.
 

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Lol, nope! But all good! I'll just make the other side match... Ok, that would be my idiot move for this build. That's what I get for rushing!
 

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Lol, nope! But all good! I'll just make the other side match... Ok, that would be my idiot move for this build. That's what I get for rushing!

Happens to everyone, it's not a mistake, it's personalizing "thumbsup"
 
Happens to everyone, it's not a mistake, it's personalizing "thumbsup"

Isn't my first, won't be my last, and this is no show buggy, so all good here! The RPM arms do need the part that flanges out ground flat with the rest of it though!
 
Ok, so this on the rpm arm is all that actually needs to be ground a little... Glad I could show you all what NOT to do. lol.. Take your time, don't rush...
 

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Ok, a little redemption time! I could build a diff blindfolded, and this went very smooth! Great design Erik!

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Plan on going to the tekin HD, I'm running the 3300 and its over heating and I'm down on power. looking at our build your at least 2 lbs heavier to boot.
 
Plan on going to the tekin HD, I'm running the 3300 and its over heating and I'm down on power. looking at our build your at least 2 lbs heavier to boot.

How are you geared? I have had the 3300 in my wraith for 2 years, it is 2lbs heavier than this should be due to wheels and weights, with no heat issues.

If I blow the motor up so be it, I'll go HD then! But for now I have sunk all my available extra cash into this.
 
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