Clanker's Hulksta

[Postclanker]

No apologies necessary Mr. Hulksta...I like straight answers and to the point "thumbsup". This is a different animal for sure. Can't wait to drive this.

Changing shocks this morning

 

[Postclanker]

Some set back today....again

I was putting the motors on and inspecting the gears....front axle has a little click and jog every revolution at the same spot....not near as noticeable when the motor is engaged....also noticed the chub screw was twisted off. Not such a big deal unless I need to get inside

Not a show stopper by itself, but the rear axle, although being smooth without a motor, will not turn over with a motor attached. Makes about a small turn then stops dead...in both directions. Not sure what to make of it.

It's what I get for buying used I guess...

I have back up axles on the Mantis I'll use....no more frustration ....damit :mrgreen:

I did get the shocks squared away....88mm eye to eye BigBore, losi mini t front springs, pink(soft) and 40 wt all around. Really wanted to mock it up again but the axles changed all that.

Cheers

 

[EverettY]

I'd give those Eggressor shocks a try still... If you put the stock SCX shock caps on they'll be the right length for you... And if they're built right you shouldn't have any leaking issues with them...

 

[Curcal]

Im a big bore fan myself.

 

[Hulksta]

Can you buy the eggressor shock bodies at different lengths? For some reason i thought this to be the case... If so, what body length are these ones??

 

[filotr14lsdude]

Dan, they all are the same length.
There's a lot of extra material you can remove.
I removed 10mm from bodies.
If you do machine them down, just remember don't put to much of a chamfer on the top, once you do the top and bottom you get a sharp edge that will cut through the bladder when tightened up.

 

[Postclanker]

I'm a BigBore fan also Curcal, no fuss no mess, and work every time.
The Egressor shock body is about a half inch longer than the BigBore and if I limit it internally then there isn't much travel left to play with.

Coupled with the fact, to get these to work, I'll have to throw even more money at them (new caps, another couple of re-build kits...really still searching for springs still). I could have bought a brand new Hitek for what I have into them now. And all of this was on sale :shock: If they had a shorter body, I didn't see that btw Hulksta, that would be at least another $40-$60 just for the bodies, and no guarantee of working. I think I'll cut my losses.

As it stands now, I'll canabalise the Mantis for the axles, motors and carbon fiber guards. Just because I know them to be good... Re-build these current axles and put them aside for now. New gears, nothing used...:mrgreen:

So, I'm glad I didn't order skins from K Koncepts yet....won't have a red theme anymore.

Thanks for checking this out "thumbsup"

 

[Postclanker]

Dan, they all are the same length.
There's a lot of extra material you can remove.
I removed 10mm from bodies.
If you do machine them down, just remember don't put to much of a chamfer on the top, once you do the top and bottom you get a sharp edge that will cut through the bladder when tightened up.

Hadn't thought of that "thumbsup". Great idea...makes me want to try that

 

[Hulksta]

Try the scx10 cap on them with the softer springs first and have another look how she sits

 

[filotr14lsdude]

I was a big bite fan, until Dan made me try scx10 shocks(said if I didn't put them on, he would do it for me)

The scx10 shock work really good on the lighter rigs.

 

[Postclanker]

I have two caps for an scx10 shock...neither one wanted to thread on very well at all. I would have to buy scx10 shocks, don't have any, hated them when I did, hence the big bores on all my rigs.

I really appreciate all the suggestions for the shocks. I believe eventually I will get these Egressor shocks to work. Need to hit up a local crawler that has quite the machine shop and help me accurately cut these down to size like filotr14 suggested. I think that might be the real solution. Let my bank account settle down a bit....spent quite a bit on my hobby this last month.

Moving forward....tore down the Mantis and got the axles ready....they are in pretty good shape for being 3+ years old. The old style VP weights actually fit the snowflake wheels much better than the RC Bros weights....don't need a wide hub to fit. "thumbsup". That will keep the track width narrower. Swapped out the servo mount and the battery mount, liked the new ones better. Should be able to see how she sits tonight.

The thought occurred to me to call in sick today : :mrgreen:
Again...thanks for the suggestions everyone...glad you are keeping an eye on me."thumbsup"

 

[Stuck]

I have two caps for an scx10 shock...neither one wanted to thread on very well at all. I would have to buy scx10 shocks, don't have any, hated them when I did, hence the big bores on all my rigs.

I really appreciate all the suggestions for the shocks. I believe eventually I will get these Egressor shocks to work. Need to hit up a local crawler that has quite the machine shop and help me accurately cut these down to size like filotr14 suggested. I think that might be the real solution. Let my bank account settle down a bit....spent quite a bit on my hobby this last month.

Moving forward....tore down the Mantis and got the axles ready....they are in pretty good shape for being 3+ years old. The old style VP weights actually fit the snowflake wheels much better than the RC Bros weights....don't need a wide hub to fit. "thumbsup". That will keep the track width narrower. Swapped out the servo mount and the battery mount, liked the new ones better. Should be able to see how she sits tonight.

The thought occurred to me to call in sick today : :mrgreen:
Again...thanks for the suggestions everyone...glad you are keeping an eye on me."thumbsup"

For some reason the threads on the RCBros shock bodies are kinda tight but the stock stuff does work. Don't buy SCX shocks, you just need the stock plastic caps. Their like $8

You also don't need to cut down the Egressor/RCBro shock bodies. They will work just fine at stock length. Just internal limit them and bleed them properly. If you need some help with the shocks hit me up. "thumbsup"

 

[Curcal]

You can also run a shorter shock shaft. The team associated ones are really good. I cant remember a part number. but they have a weird title. "unobtanium" or something like that.

 

[Postclanker]

You can also run a shorter shock shaft. The team associated ones are really good. I cant remember a part number. but they have a weird title. "unobtanium" or something like that.

I did see that...kind of strange

I have two caps...because I needed the collars and that was on the tree, I can get about a turn and a half out of it before it binds up. I just hate the plastic junk. If i limit them internally, they just don't have much travel left. I should just step back and take a deep breath I suppose.

what are you dooing Saturday Joel???

 

[filotr14lsdude]

For some reason the threads on the RCBros shock bodies are kinda tight but the stock stuff does work. Don't buy SCX shocks, you just need the stock plastic caps. Their like $8

You also don't need to cut down the Egressor/RCBro shock bodies. They will work just fine at stock length. Just internal limit them and bleed them properly. If you need some help with the shocks hit me up. "thumbsup"

With this chassis you want to run it really low as the front opens up giving you a it more height.
It was designed around standard length scx10 shocks.
Standard length Rcbro/egressor shocks with internal limiting significantly limit flex
When I first built mine up I used full length shock parts (shaft and bodies) I ended up with like 12-15mm internal limiting for the ride height is should have.

It ended up not really moving like it should so I brould shorter shock shafts and machined the body down.
This meant I don't need any internal/external limiting.

 

[filotr14lsdude]

I did see that...kind of strange

I have two caps...because I needed the collars and that was on the tree, I can get about a turn and a half out of it before it binds up. I just hate the plastic junk. If i limit them internally, they just don't have much travel left. I should just step back and take a deep breath I suppose.

what are you dooing Saturday Joel???

Ive also got a few top caps that didn't screw on properly.
Like when they were molded there slightly different

 

[Stuck]

With this chassis you want to run it really low as the front opens up giving you a it more height.
It was designed around standard length scx10 shocks.
Standard length Rcbro/egressor shocks with internal limiting significantly limit flex
When I first built mine up I used full length shock parts (shaft and bodies) I ended up with like 12-15mm internal limiting for the ride height is should have.

It ended up not really moving like it should so I brould shorter shock shafts and machined the body down.
This meant I don't need any internal/external limiting.

ya but you can't go back after you cut them up. if you ever want to use the shocks on another rig your outa luck and another $40.

To each their own.

 

[Stuck]

I did see that...kind of strange

I have two caps...because I needed the collars and that was on the tree, I can get about a turn and a half out of it before it binds up. I just hate the plastic junk. If i limit them internally, they just don't have much travel left. I should just step back and take a deep breath I suppose.

what are you dooing Saturday Joel???

nothing till the evening. I'll shoot you a txt

 

[Mudeater67]

:shock: There was nothing Wrong with the XR axles when I Sold them to you they were real smooth No Clicking , I didn't notice the Button head screw Broken.

Some set back today....again

I was putting the motors on and inspecting the gears....front axle has a little click and jog every revolution at the same spot....not near as noticeable when the motor is engaged....also noticed the chub screw was twisted off. Not such a big deal unless I need to get inside

Not a show stopper by itself, but the rear axle, although being smooth without a motor, will not turn over with a motor attached. Makes about a small turn then stops dead...in both directions. Not sure what to make of it.

It's what I get for buying used I guess...

I have back up axles on the Mantis I'll use....no more frustration ....damit :mrgreen:

I did get the shocks squared away....88mm eye to eye BigBore, losi mini t front springs, pink(soft) and 40 wt all around. Really wanted to mock it up again but the axles changed all that.

Cheers

 

[Postclanker]

:shock: There was nothing Wrong with the XR axles when I Sold them to you they were real smooth No Clicking , I didn't notice the Button head screw Broken.

I got no beef good sir...yes, they are perfect gears...disassembled the rear this morning, nothing wrong. Moved the pinion back a tiny bit and they work fine with the motor attached now. Apparently the set screw was hitting the gear and stopping it dead. Fixed and smooth.