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Car stereo help

Fawk it.

Build a false floor with the sub about 1 1/2 - 2" off the floor (or less) in a down-firing configuration. You can do this and have a sealed enclosure for quick, snappy response and the false floor will allow you to throw anything you want in the back without risking damage to the speaker (like you would if the speaker faced the rear of the car).

The "chamber" created in the space between the front (bottom) wall of the box and the floor of the trunk will allow the sound waves to travel a further distance and increase dB output.

Makes for a clean overall install and a nice, clean overall sound. You'll get the quick drum hits on rock and still have nice, clean lows for rap.

It's pretty much a 4th order bandpass system but without the port tuning.
 
Fawk it.

Build a false floor with the sub about 1 1/2 - 2" off the floor (or less) in a down-firing configuration. You can do this and have a sealed enclosure for quick, snappy response and the false floor will allow you to throw anything you want in the back without risking damage to the speaker (like you would if the speaker faced the rear of the car).

The "chamber" created in the space between the front (bottom) wall of the box and the floor of the trunk will allow the sound waves to travel a further distance and increase dB output.

Makes for a clean overall install and a nice, clean overall sound. You'll get the quick drum hits on rock and still have nice, clean lows for rap.

It's pretty much a 4th order bandpass system but without the port tuning.

X2.....and you can always later staple batting to the inside of the box to further tune it back towards a more ported sound if it sounds to crisp and tight. Just make sure the enclosure is totally sealed. 99% of the reason for port tuning is to make up for the hassle of proper box building due to laziness or lack of usable space.
 
Turing your amp down. Your using the gain right?

Its not a volume control its used to set properly match the output from different pieces of gear so that each communicates the cleanest signal to the other, resulting in maximum performance and minimal noise & risk of damage.

The amp is going to put all the power it has, it does not matter if the gain is all the way up or down. The gain doesn't add to output or take away from it.
 
Turing your amp down. Your using the gain right?

Its not a volume control its used to set properly match the output from different pieces of gear so that each communicates the cleanest signal to the other, resulting in maximum performance and minimal noise & risk of damage.

The amp is going to put all the power it has, it does not matter if the gain is all the way up or down. The gain doesn't add to output or take away from it.

most amps these days have a bass remote and most source units also have a sub output setting you can change, with my source unit I can make my system sound like there is no sub at all and then go up from there with how much bass i want for the style of music im listening to"thumbsup"
 
If it was me I would get on JL W6 or W7 series. They are pricey but they play very well and accurate. If you just want a lot of bass and the Kicker L series will do that for you just not as accurately as the JL will.

Currently I am still using my old school Fosgate HX2 fosgates newer stuff just dose not impress me much but that is me.

Subs are like anything else you get what you pay for.
 
Turing your amp down. Your using the gain right?

Its not a volume control its used to set properly match the output from different pieces of gear so that each communicates the cleanest signal to the other, resulting in maximum performance and minimal noise & risk of damage.

The amp is going to put all the power it has, it does not matter if the gain is all the way up or down. The gain doesn't add to output or take away from it.

It's called headroom. We practiced that concept for years in IASCA. Put way too big of amps on the system, keep the gains lower, and never risk clipping the signal. It's clipping that is the biggest killer of speakers.
 
x2 on steering clear of a bandpass or ported box
stick with sealed. youll get alot quicker and crisper hits, and more pitch variations. ie less monotone bass.
 
X2.....and you can always later staple batting to the inside of the box to further tune it back towards a more ported sound if it sounds to crisp and tight. Just make sure the enclosure is totally sealed. 99% of the reason for port tuning is to make up for the hassle of proper box building due to laziness or lack of usable space.

...or just throw in some polyfill
 
12' solo baric L7 in a sledge hammer box!
just like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/kicker-l7-solob...Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item27b1667f76
they are bad ass subs and you will only need one! lol my buddy had m=one in his grand cherokee and it was insanely loud! :shock: but he had a bass knob to turn it down also.
one of these subs is lie having a full competition sound system! "thumbsup"

i have two 12' jbl's in a sledge hammer box in my xj and it is really, really loud!!!!

sealed box= no good
band pass box - round ports= sh***y sound
sledgehammer style ported box= best quality sound!
ill take a pic of my system to show you.
 
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here is my system.
jeepsystem005.jpg

jeepsystem001.jpg

jeepsystem002.jpg

jeepsystem003.jpg
 
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