Sammy J.
Quarry Creeper
I posted a couple pictures on the Rubicon Fit thread. You will see that my SCX10-2 wheel base is shorter than 12.3".
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Build is almost done
- Thread starter saddlesore
- Start date
I posted a couple pictures on the Rubicon Fit thread. You will see that my SCX10-2 wheel base is shorter than 12.3".
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saddlesore
Quarry Creeper
Ok here are some pics of how i mounted the JK body and how i got the VP brawler sliders to work
I initially drilled the body holes based on aligning the body with the chassis rails so that the front grille would mount flush with the front bumper. after mounting though i noticed the wheelbase didnt align which caused the front wheels to rub/bind on the crusher flares during suspension compression or steering. so...i had to position the body further back. since i already drilled the body holes out i had to do this to position the body a little further back. ugly but effective
I copied this idea from new2rocks on how to secure the rear of the body without having to mess with removing the hardtop and accessing the body posts to install or remove the body clips. they are brass strips that i cut down and bent. it works awesome and its pretty secure
I initially drilled the body holes based on aligning the body with the chassis rails so that the front grille would mount flush with the front bumper. after mounting though i noticed the wheelbase didnt align which caused the front wheels to rub/bind on the crusher flares during suspension compression or steering. so...i had to position the body further back. since i already drilled the body holes out i had to do this to position the body a little further back. ugly but effective
I copied this idea from new2rocks on how to secure the rear of the body without having to mess with removing the hardtop and accessing the body posts to install or remove the body clips. they are brass strips that i cut down and bent. it works awesome and its pretty secure
saddlesore
Quarry Creeper
The VP brawlers were originally designed for the original SCX10 so they didnt alight properly with the 10.2. i had to come up with a creative way to mount these so they would align perfectly with the body...remember the body had to be positioned a few mm back to get the proper alignment with the wheelbase. i cut down some scrap acrylic to reposition the mounting
saddlesore
Quarry Creeper
The last issue to tackle was the SSD Rock Shield bumper. initial mounting had the bumper so far out front that it compromised the approach angle and made the JK look like it had a huge, ugly underbite
So...i had to grab my dremel and start grinding down the aluminum stops on the bumper so i could slide it down further in the chassis rails
...and now it is flush with the front grille! no more underbite
So...i had to grab my dremel and start grinding down the aluminum stops on the bumper so i could slide it down further in the chassis rails
...and now it is flush with the front grille! no more underbite
saddlesore
Quarry Creeper
oh i got a HH Crawlmaster Expert 13t motor yesterday and i installed it. I like the low end control and torque. it is definitely stronger than the $18 Yeah Racing 17t motor i had in there previously but i want more wheelspeed. i assumed 13t would mean more wheelspeed but i found out it is a 13t on a 5 slot armature vs the yeah racings 17t on a 3 slot.
can i adjust the timing and/or increase the pinion size to a 16t without hurting the motor?
when adjusting the timing can i assume each of the notches on the motor can mean 5 degrees? and when i want to increase the timing do i turn the endbell clockwise or counter clockwise?
can i adjust the timing and/or increase the pinion size to a 16t without hurting the motor?
when adjusting the timing can i assume each of the notches on the motor can mean 5 degrees? and when i want to increase the timing do i turn the endbell clockwise or counter clockwise?
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