bilinvic's Wraith Rock Crawler

[bilinvic]

MMP = Mamba Max Pro ESC

I used VP titanium Wraith length lower links to clear the rear DMG "cab wall" section.

I would recommend using the stock Wraith skid, it works better than anything and slides over rocks with minimal friction.

 

[Motorider]

Bill, I see that you have switched back to a traditional link setup in the rear. What was the reasoning and is the performance better or worse for crawling? Im looking to get a stiffy kit myself and was curious if I should order TA SK over the Stump back? Thanks for the insight as always.

 

[azTony]

Bill, I see that you have switched back to a traditional link setup in the rear. What was the reasoning and is the performance better or worse for crawling? Im looking to get a stiffy kit myself and was curious if I should order TA SK over the Stump back? Thanks for the insight as always.

See my inquiry on post #397 and his reply at #398 "thumbsup"

 

[bilinvic]

Bill, I see that you have switched back to a traditional link setup in the rear. What was the reasoning and is the performance better or worse for crawling? Im looking to get a stiffy kit myself and was curious if I should order TA SK over the Stump back? Thanks for the insight as always.

Just a few replies up is my reasoning. Now that I have had my Wraith with both trailing arms and traditional 4 links...it really is hard to tell what's better. There's more articulation with TAs but I'm an anti-articulation kinda guy!!! :roll: Too much is definitely not needed and makes for poor performance....that being said, stiffer shocks, shock set-up and limit straps controls how much articulation you want dialed in.
Without a doubt, I would recommend a DMG TA set-up if that's what you want. Get Jerry to add sway bar mounts too...I wish I would have!

 

[Motorider]

Just a few replies up is my reasoning. Now that I have had my Wraith with both trailing arms and traditional 4 links...it really is hard to tell what's better. There's more articulation with TAs but I'm an anti-articulation kinda guy!!! :roll: Too much is definitely not needed and makes for poor performance....that being said, stiffer shocks, shock set-up and limit straps controls how much articulation you want dialed in.
Without a doubt, I would recommend a DMG TA set-up if that's what you want. Get Jerry to add sway bar mounts too...I wish I would have!

Thanks for the fast response bill. I think I will go with the TA setup and I can always revert back as you did. The only thing to note is that the stump back for traditional links has more shock adjustments. Not sure if it's even needed. I currently have no trailing arms and I was planning to request the sway bar mount.

Also do you think you would have also had him fab up a light bar mount/cage?

Thanks again.

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[bilinvic]

NP Motorider. Maybe you can ask Jerry to add some more material on the upper shocks mounts (rearwards) to give you more options if you do go back to 4 link vs. TA. Personally, I have no issues using the TA upper shock mounts and the shocks are not angled way too far.

As you can see, I used a modified plastic Axial light bar mount and it takes a boatload of abuse and it's lighter than metal which is keeps the CG down.

 

[azTony]

I have been looking at the shock mounts also and asked Jerry if I can get more than 2 holes, I will see what he has to say. I also wanted a light bar mount but he said that comes with a roof which will cover the skull so that was out. I will look at the plastic mounts like you did.

I sent you a PM asking about the trailing arm lengths since I have nothing to measure from as a starting point. I want to make sure I get the right arms.

I am ready to order my arms, shocks and axles but need to get everything correct when I order.

 

[Motorider]

I have been looking at the shock mounts also and asked Jerry if I can get more than 2 holes, I will see what he has to say. I also wanted a light bar mount but he said that comes with a roof which will cover the skull so that was out. I will look at the plastic mounts like you did.

I sent you a PM asking about the trailing arm lengths since I have nothing to measure from as a starting point. I want to make sure I get the right arms.

I am ready to order my arms, shocks and axles but need to get everything correct when I order.

So I talked to Jerry, and he is out of the skulls for a while. He said his cnc guy can be slow. I will be using the same setup as bill for the lights. Guess I'll just have to wait for my stiffy kit.



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[Motorider]

NP Motorider. Maybe you can ask Jerry to add some more material on the upper shocks mounts (rearwards) to give you more options if you do go back to 4 link vs. TA. Personally, I have no issues using the TA upper shock mounts and the shocks are not angled way too far.

As you can see, I used a modified plastic Axial light bar mount and it takes a boatload of abuse and it's lighter than metal which is keeps the CG down.

Hey Bill, what width of a light bar will work with that mount? I'm looking at the onetoomanyrc bars. Thanks.

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[azTony]

So I talked to Jerry, and he is out of the skulls for a while. He said his cnc guy can be slow. I will be using the same setup as bill for the lights. Guess I'll just have to wait for my stiffy kit.



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You "talked to Jerry"? How do you do that? My only contact is Facebook Messenger which takes forever

 

[Motorider]

You "talked to Jerry"? How do you do that? My only contact is Facebook Messenger which takes forever

He lives in the Kansas city area. Heads our KCRC club. Great person. I; however, am in Dallas texas and just used Facebook. I lost his number when my phone drowned. [emoji25] horrific swimming accident.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[bilinvic]

I sent you a PM asking about the trailing arm lengths since I have nothing to measure from as a starting point. I want to make sure I get the right arms. I am ready to order my arms, shocks and axles but need to get everything correct when I order.

No PM received azTony.

BMRC TA lengths are listed here: Trailing Arms for Custom Suspensions, Blue Monkey RC

So I talked to Jerry, and he is out of the skulls for a while. He said his cnc guy can be slow. I will be using the same setup as bill for the lights. Guess I'll just have to wait for my stiffy kit.

Bummer.

Hey Bill, what width of a light bar will work with that mount? I'm looking at the onetoomanyrc bars. Thanks.

The RC4WD lightbar I am using is 106mm wide. The Axial mount opening is 114mm wide.

 

[azTony]

Well that really sucks! I wrote a long message asking about the length that is defined as the "twin hammer length" since they list 4 different lengths and their kit does not give a length. Since I have never built one of these before, I was trying to prevent buying parts that are wrong. If the trailing arms are too long or too short that would effect the pinion angle since the upper arms will determine that geometry.

I checked my sent PM messages and it does not show I sent the message so apparently it was lost in cyber land. :shock:

 

[bilinvic]

Perhaps going with Wraith length would be best, but you can easily alter the length by changing the rod ends from Revo length to Jato length or custom cut Jato length to your needs. I would recommend the RPM rod end equivalents as they are stronger. Same with the upper links, to ensure your pinion angle is perfect, change the rods ends or custom cut them to suit your preference.

 

[smog]

Hey Bill, What make are the Posts that your body clips are attached to? They look much better than what I am getting at my LHS.

 

[bilinvic]

These are what I use for the hood:

Pro Line Body Mount Secure-Loc Cap Kit

 

[84yoda]

Another option, full aluminum and much smaller: JConcepts Battery Hold Down Wrench Nut Black (4) | TowerHobbies.com

 

[bilinvic]

I've seen those...but I believe the threaded rods are smaller than the P-L's...therefore my existing holes would be too big!!!!

 

[84yoda]

There 4-40 so just a hair smaller then 3mm PL uses.

 

[mikemcE]

I run them on my wraith and Yeti .....not one lost yet!

Hang up and Drive