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Best rod ends????

MAC FAB

RCC Addict
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
1,034
Location
So Cal
Who makes and or what are the strongest rod ends? Ideally, metal is best, but for the sake of not having about $75 for metal ones, what plastic pieces are "second" best? Shorter length is better (appearance) for my application if there is an option. M3 going thru the ball. I am worried about threading them on the part, and having them get ripped off the threads because of high speed abuse. What is the best on links? They are for suspension parts if that matters, on the ends of the tubes seen here.


20190508_080502 by MAC FAB, on Flickr
 
It's a tough call... the RPM "short" rod ends (RPM 80472) have been my go-to for years, they're a beefier version of the Traxxas "Revo" rod ends, and they have a bit of flex to them which means they'll put up with more abuse before breaking, but I have had threads pull out after some pretty nasty tumbles. I'm having good luck using the TRX4 rod ends (TRA8276) so far. The trx4 ends aren't as pliable as RPM's, which means they'll hold the threads better, and they're actually a hair thicker than the RPM's too, so while they're theoretically more brittle, I haven't broken one yet. Their length is half way between a revo and a jato rod end, but the last ~5mm has a larger I.D., so they can overlap the link if you're using 3/16" (making the effective length the same as a Revo.) All of those listed fit the same size ball.
 
Then maybe I'm better off running the Jato ends that are threaded all the way onto some M4 machine screws that will get welded to the ends. The arms are 1/4" tube. I think I need to look at my Summit as well, prop rod ends may fit the bill as well. Moving forward, a good thing.
 
The short revo rod ends are the strongest. Revo and jato rod ends have been the strong standard for years. I will say this though, a few have said the jato ends split at the end of the thread towards the ball. Jato ends have really only been used for upper links and steering links really.

I would also suggest using 8-32 thread for better thread contact over M4.
 
8-32, good point. Thank you. I was just looking at Flea Bay, Losi 5t and b ends are cheap, beefy and they would be up for the task as well. Time to hit the LHS to hold them in my hand, then wait for my buddy to get back from Baja so I can scale/duplicate the geometry off a 1:1 car. Front arm mounts are dictated by the steering spread. Anyone have an idea on how to replicate a linear motion like a R/P steering unit? I've seen it somewhere, just don't recall where. Needs 1" of throw in total.
 
Rpm ends are stronger than traxxas simply due to volume of material. Traxxas rod ends for a trx4 are even stronger than rpm but they are a mid length between revo and jato. They also have an added benefit of running the link into them a few millimeters to strengthen the connection as a whole.
 
... Traxxas rod ends for a trx4 are even stronger than rpm but they are a mid length between revo and jato. They also have an added benefit of running the link into them a few millimeters to strengthen the connection as a whole.

"thumbsup""thumbsup""thumbsup"
 
I totaly agree with white trash. I use revo and jato to dial in the length of my links. I was cutting the jato ends but have since started to use the traxas ends instead. All of these have held up well on my shafty and moa doing comps. I do not beat on my rigs but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do"thumbsup"
 
Just to follow up on the metal rod ends, I've never ran them but have heard they are not good long term due to them not being pliable (plasticity) so when they take impacts they enlarge and get sloppy instead of bouncing back like plastic can. I have a bunch of metal RC4WD rod ends I got from a big RC buy out but have never wanted to use them because of this. I'd be curious to hear other folks takes on the metal rod ends.

I also tend to go for Traxxas rod ends but I've recently stocked up on the TRX4 rod ends because they come in various angles and lengths so they're pretty versatile.

Anyone have an idea on how to replicate a linear motion like a R/P steering unit? I've seen it somewhere, just don't recall where. Needs 1" of throw in total.

What is an R/P steering unit? Rack and Pinion? google is not helping me
 
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Yes, rack and pinion unit. As for metal ends, you'll never see me running hobby grade metal heims. McMaster Carr units (real hardware) that are industrial strength. Most have a static rating, however, the small metrics don't (still stronger the the cheesy import metal ones) #8 doesn't either. 6-32 has a static rating of 700 lbs. Not going to break that. 10-32s go on the rear of my builds, 1500 lb rating. So at this point, I am leaning towards RPM Jato pieces, all for the price of ~2 good metal ends. I will build my arms to accommodate the rod ends. A little give should be fine, even a failure is ok to save the chassis. I should be able to find silver colored pieces, right? I don't want black ones. Do they come with the hollow balls as well, anyone?
 
I don't believe you can buy them in silver, but you can get them in white and dye them to gray, RPM #80511.

You'll also have to source the pivot balls elsewhere, hopefully someone else has a good source for those.
 
I don't believe you can buy them in silver, but you can get them in white and dye them to gray, RPM #80511.

You'll also have to source the pivot balls elsewhere, hopefully someone else has a good source for those.


No silver. I can get a few different WTH colors. Really? Traxxas ends they shall be.
 
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