Axial XR10 Tips & Tricks

[One-eyed Jack]

nope mine suck too they leak real bad i know most shocks leak but not this bad

If you guys want shocks that don't leak. Try Jato shocks. I have been racing Jato's for eight years and I have not had a single leak. Never had to replace or top off. I probably changed the oil four or five times but I never had to replace a seal. Damn, I think I talked myself into putting them on my XR10.

 

[SDheavymetal]

Here is how to widen the rear of the XR10.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-xr10/351463-xr10-rear-wraith-lockouts.html

 

[tiny2085]

What replacement gear sets are you guys running ? I blew my set up !! Just trying to tune my fx-r...

 

[AreCee]

what replacement gear sets are you guys running ? I blew my set up !! Just trying to tune my fx-r...

rc4wd

 

[Vertigo]

Nothing flashy, but I always appreciate people mentioning simple and practical ideas for stuff. Figured I'd pass this on. I still like to experiment with different lengths of external shock limiters, but get tired of removing the rod end to do it.

5/32" ID vacuum line costs about 70-cents a foot at an auto parts house. It's thick-walled so you can cut whatever lengths you want, then slit the hose vertically. You can pop it off and on without doing anything more than lifting the shock spring. And the thick wall keeps it from popping off the shock shaft.

For what it's worth.

 

[ik632]

I just picked up a brand new kit and the instructions are a bit different for the screws for the axle brace.

Left most screw that is listed above as an AXA466 (12mm long) is now an AXA467 (15mm long) LONGER

Center screw listed above as an AXA466 (12mm long) is now an AXA465 (10mm long). SHORTER

Right most screw (THE ONE THAT WILL INTERFERE WITH BEARING AND ALIGNMENT IF TOO LONG) is listed above as an AXA465 and is still listed as an AXA465. SAME

So, looks like they shortened up the middle screw and lengthened the left screw.

 

[001Hulk]

Nice write up Bender!!! awseome stuff from everyone. Quick question, is your chassis intentionaly backwards in the first set of pics? When I look at your setup sheet the schematic insinuates that the longer skinnier horn is indeed the front where as the stock chassis is exactly the opposite. I almost followed suit with your pic but realized its intended direction after assebly!!!! DOPE homer would say!

 

[Krawler23]

Do you mean D'oh?

 

[ik632]

Stock Shock lower seal:

If you lose or ruin the stock o-rings, #6 o-rings from the plumbing section in the hardware store work as a suitable replacement. They are a little thicker so you won't get the bottom screwed on and will see the o-ring just a little. So far no leaks.

 

[OhioCrawler]

Either im confused or disoriented but my lower links mount horizontally under the lower shock mount. Yours seem to mount/bolt up vertically. Am I missing something?

This tip is obvious to us seasoned crawlers, but will be great for the newbies.

Drill and tap your lower links to accept 4mm studs.

You will need an m4 x.07 tap.

Then install traxxas jato ends. Traxxas Jato Rod Ends (12) with hollow balls (12) #5525 - Miscellaneous - -Suspension - The Crawlers Store LLC
They are just like Revo ends but longer. Cut them to the same length as stock, or add a mm to each to stretch your wheelbase out to 12.5".
You can get 4mm studs from associated, venom, kyosho etc. I prefer these on ebay that are 20mm and steel: M4 x 20mm Socket Set Screws 12pk Grub | eBay

This works best with the machined lower links but you could do it with your stockers. If you are doing this with the machined links, you will need to use the bent rod end that Bender used on his front machined lower link. Just tap it to 4mm. It is plenty thick.

The machined links pictured below have been upgraded

This tip will give you bulletproof links so you won't have to worry about those 3mm ends breaking, or pulling out.

Thanks to Fa1rch1ld for turning me onto the jato ends. I'd never seen them until recently and they are worth their weight in gold because of their extra length compared to revo ends. Trim to fit"thumbsup"
They could come in really hand at comps too when rig is just a hair out of spec. Just trim the jatos a hair, and you are good to go"thumbsup"

 

[TSK]

Either im confused or disoriented but my lower links mount horizontally under the lower shock mount. Yours seem to mount/bolt up vertically. Am I missing something?

XR10 front case mounts as pictured. Rears bolt up horizontally.

Are you sure you have an XR10?

 

[OhioCrawler]

XR10 front case mounts as pictured. Rears bolt up horizontally.

Are you sure you have an XR10?

Sorry, I was picturing the rear. I was at work trying to remember...I've only had the thing for a week...geesshh

 

[5p3ktrum]

Hey guys, I am running all stock but the stage three high clearance links and proline chisels and the tires rub the front springs and cups at full steering. Is there a mod for this or should I limit the epa or just let it rub? Thanks for any help.

 

[Waitin4Dv@Yahoo.com]

Having some weird noise in my airtronics digital 94851 steering servo. my tires turn fine both directions but when I turn twoards the left the servo keeps making a sound like its still trying to turn. And for a little while this morning it didnt want to turn one way but then went a way. Any ideas?. And do I have a pretty good steeri g servo?. My email is waitin4dv@yahoo.com im still trying to get set up on thos site with some pics.

what should I do new gears or new servo. And where can I het nee gears from. Its a airtronics digital 94851.

 

[zodiaci]

Having some weird noise in my airtronics digital 94851 steering servo. my tires turn fine both directions but when I turn twoards the left the servo keeps making a sound like its still trying to turn. And for a little while this morning it didnt want to turn one way but then went a way. Any ideas?. And do I have a pretty good steeri g servo?. My email is waitin4dv@yahoo.com im still trying to get set up on thos site with some pics.

what should I do new gears or new servo. And where can I het nee gears from. Its a airtronics digital 94851.

OUCH!:shock:
Since you could potentially have other damaged parts within the servo besides gears, I'd invest in a Hitech servo (if it were me). I've been running an HS-7954SH with no mercy and with no issues. It's affordable and super tough. It has about twice the torque of your 94851 and would be a good investment. Just my 2 cents...

 

[Vertigo]

OUCH!:shock:
Since you could potentially have other damaged parts within the servo besides gears, I'd invest in a Hitech servo (if it were me). I've been running an HS-7954SH with no mercy and with no issues. It's affordable and super tough. It has about twice the torque of your 94851 and would be a good investment. Just my 2 cents...

Just chiming in to second that. About three years of hammering the crap out of a 7954-sh Hitec and not until the past few days did it show any signs of weakening. My new one will arrive tomorrow. In my opinion, it's the best value in crawler servos out there right now.

 

[Waitin4Dv@Yahoo.com]

Just chiming in to second that. About three years of hammering the crap out of a 7954-sh Hitec and not until the past few days did it show any signs of weakening. My new one will arrive tomorrow. In my opinion, it's the best value in crawler servos out there right now.

Yeah thanks for the help. Went and must ought the hitec 7950th. Whats the diffefence from the 7954 sh?

 

[SINister]

The 7950 has more torque and Ti gears.

 

[Waitin4Dv@Yahoo.com]

The 7950 has more torque and Ti gears.

Ok cool. Then i got the one i need. Learn something everyday. Thanks

 

[Charlie-III]

Hey guys, I am running all stock but the stage three high clearance links and proline chisels and the tires rub the front springs and cups at full steering. Is there a mod for this or should I limit the epa or just let it rub? Thanks for any help.

Most of us just let the tire rub. Yes, there are mods that can reduce the rubbing, some of it is chassis tuning.
Adding caster also helps.