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Axial XR10 Tips & Tricks
- Thread starter Brandon
- Start date
The XR10 Setup Sheets are now available:
Apparently a lot of people have installed their chassis backwards. Looking at the stock chassis sketch, I guess the tipoff is the long narrow window on the upper rear chassis plate. (the sideplate, not the shock mount)
But note on the option chassis, the longer narrow window is marked front. It's even more obvious with the shock mounts out of the way, see here:
http://www.axialracing.com/details.php?Id=4095.
Whaddya think? Drawing labeled wrong or the option is intended to be the opposite of stock?
HUBBABUBBA
Newbie
Allright im a lil late on getting a xr10 .....i have been a losi guy for the last two seasons! So i just ordered a xr10 today and i was told that i should get traxxas bigbore shocks and mini t springs,for ny shock set up.can someone point me in the right direction on which ones to buy and what set up i should have in them?
HUBBABUBBA
Newbie
what radio set up are you useing?
@HUBBABUBBA
Hello
I am using Sanwa MT4. On the "Lever" (it is a poti not a switch) i can change steppless between rear and front. Normaly 100:100..
Climbing up i use 80:100 (100 % at rear)
Mode "Rockcrawler", Lever mixed with Throttle.
Werner7
PS: other way: mix the Dialnob with Throttle..
Hello
I am using Sanwa MT4. On the "Lever" (it is a poti not a switch) i can change steppless between rear and front. Normaly 100:100..
Climbing up i use 80:100 (100 % at rear)
Mode "Rockcrawler", Lever mixed with Throttle.
Werner7
PS: other way: mix the Dialnob with Throttle..
Big bores are good shocks, but so are the stock XR's. The Axial team drivers use the Axial shocks, varying the oils and springs. Their setups are posted under support/instructions on AxialRacing.com. They more than hold their own at major comps, so whoever says you have to change the shocks -- can he beat those guys?
HUBBABUBBA
Newbie
I have the same remote and love it. I have my TRM3 bound for complete lock out for F/R digs but use the lever more. Its so nice and smooth and I love the audible beep incase I get lost and need to find neutral throttle.
You can drive the truck with out ever having to look at the radio to figure out what your doing. "thumbsup"
HUBBABUBBA
Newbie
Is it better to use dual esc's or does anyone know if that novak dual motor esc is any good?
salty
Newbie
I assume you are talking about the M2... not many good things said on this forum about it, especially the drag brake. I know a couple guys who get by with it, but IMO dual fxr's is the way to go.
HUBBABUBBA
Newbie
Thanks SALTY!! since i posted that ? i ordered 2 castle sidewinders!i figured that would be a better way to go.
HUBBABUBBA
Newbie
am I the only one having problems with the stock shock building? The damn bladders keep collapsing when I tighten the cap!
Are you using the build technique on the AxialRacing blog? The cap goes on first and the fill and bleeding take place at the cartridge end. I had no problems and have had no leaks. I guess if my top cap insisted on leaking, I'd reassemble it with teflon tape on the threads. (or RTV -- I plan to service mine through the bottom)
The cartridge o-ring is visible all the way to where it makes contact with the body, so no excuse not getting that seated properly. I thought they went together slick.
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I would go with the stock shocks and when properly built they work very nice. "thumbsup"
DiggyStyle
Quarry Creeper
+1. I've had no problems with mine. The build went without a hitch. The bladders allow more forgiveness when filling/rebuilding the shocks IMO. You should always move the piston slowly up and down in the oil to remove as many tiny bubbles as possible before putting on the cap (that's something that is much more difficult, almost impossible, to do if you build them from the cartridge end). I've built my RC10T3 shocks for years and they don't use a bladder; so it was way more of a finesse game to get it right. Having the bladders in the XR10 shocks is a treat for me. No more partially filling the caps and then trying to mate them with the shock body without spilling oil all over. "thumbsup"
MRCCRAWLER1.9
RCC Addict
+2 on that!!
I've ran with the stockers for about 1 year now, with no issue. Ive had about 200hours+ on my rig, and they are still running fine. I change shock fluids about every 10-20hours of running.
Only issue i have had with the stockers is that the bladder got torn, and i had to replace it. Other than that, I have had no issues what so ever. No leaking.
losiking1
Rock Crawler
Agreed!! The stock shocks are #! in my books. Zero issues here also. Stock springs never made it on. Losi golds front and rear are the shizz!!!"thumbsup"
MRCCRAWLER1.9
RCC Addict
Never tried Losi Golds, so i cant say anything, but The Axial blacks work like a charm for me, here in california!
they're a real treat to have on the rig! Stock Springs are way too stiff, and IMHO, its like driving a rig with a chassis made out of 2x4 wood directly screwed onto the axles. :lmao:
