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Hi, i was looking into buying another rc and i had a question about the Ascender. Is an Ascender as high quality as like an Axial or Rc4wd rig. What about reliability and parts availability:?:
The ascender is a great rig. The quality is great, if you're used to the first gen scx-10, the plastic of the ascender is WAY better. Parts are easily found, has plenty of aftermarket support. Not much is needed really, out of the box it's a great truck that can be put right to work. Look through some threads here like natedog's ascender thread. TONS of great information and real world testing. Get one already
I really want an Ascender, but I'm waiting for version 2.0 to be released. Still, it's just as good or better than the Scx10 ii. It's got some torque twist that can be remedied easily enough, but unlike the Scx10 OG and ii the shocks don't leak and the tranny gears aren't plastic. Here's a link to Natedog's thread:
Hi, i was looking into buying another rc and i had a question about the ascender. Is an ascender as high quality as like an Axial or Rc4wd rig. What about reliability and parts availability:?:
Great decision, it's a real bargain - you get lights, nice two-tone paint, and satin-finished wheels instead of the too-shiny chrome ones. All for less money - I greatly prefer the inexpensive FlySky GT3-C I ended up getting to the stock radio - comes with a USB rechargeable LiPo, lanyard hole, 2 grip sizes, and 3 channels stock - and extra receivers are like $7... I already picked one up to control my spare Bomber-based build. Personally, I would have gotten it if it was available when I got my K10 - but I love both body styles equally - only the two-tone paint and lights sure help. I had to get a 2nd Chevy cab to get it where I really am going to LOVE it. Welcome to the club, my friend!
Wow - nice stuff, and I know there are also scale inner-fender for the K10 on the Shapeways site.. but I dunno how scale I'm goin' for... I'll confess to being more of a bolt-on guy, that hates extra wiring and interiors... and I can't do the fenders because that will block my ESC button!
I figure driving lights will be easy, because the wiring won't be to the body, and all my electronics are right behind the grill already... won't have to route more than a couple inches.
Shoot - one of the pics shows wiper-blade marks painted on the windshield - I had thought of doing my "glass" in matte clear around wiper patterns, myself. I don't do rust/mud via paint, tho'. I like to occasionally try to clean mine back up...
I do love watching others do those builds, however - will be payin' close attention to your thread(s).
Shoot - one of the pics shows wiper-blade marks painted on the windshield - I had thought of doing my "glass" in matte clear around wiper patterns, myself.
I had that same thought going through my mind, but I will probably have to remove the tinted windshield sticker I'm not sure how well the flat clear will stick it.
Not exactly sure what you mean by flat clear sticking...
If you look at mine, it's currently a RTR-bodied K10 that I beat up on the rocks, painted black inside with a brush, painted the hood outside with Tamiya black spray, then I masked the front and back windows on the outside and shot the whole truck in matte clear Tamiya spray - over decals and all.
The only part I regret is not taking the time to mask the inside of the windows - but I figured it wasn't going to look any good anyways and wanted it over and done with - surprised me in the end!
It's interesting how much "tougher" the exterior is now... the matte clear is less susceptible to scratching than plain Lexan or decals, and so far it's sticking well to the decals I sprayed over.
I'm a firm believer in a final exterior coat of matte clear from now on, the only thing I'll decide on from one vehicle to the next is how to do the windows. Probably mask them completely...