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And brushless for all...

I thought I'd update.

SCX10 has been doing a LOT of crawling of late on 2S. I was not confident to crawl it hard on 3S with the summer heat so I swapped in a 2S lipo and started stress testing it.

In the same situation, my stock Bomber (back on a brushed 35T setup), gets WAY hotter. The brushless system stays basically cool. On a 30 degree C day in the direct sun climbing up and down a big dirt pile slow, sometimes struggling over and over and over to get up tricky bits and running really slow, the HW got to just warm after 10 solid minutes. The Bomber had to have a 10 minute rest after this as EVERYTHING got really hot on 2S. Even the servo got hot after the AE-5 ESC got hot.

Swap in a 3S and you have a good trail truck, 2S for crawling.

I think this experiment showed a few things not initially obvious.

Firstly, that even a cheap brushless system has more torque at the same RPM and wheel speed and secondly, brushless runs cooler and gets longer run times. The 27T that was in the SCX10 would have nuked itself in those 10 minutes as the Bomber was always far cooler than the SCX10 in the same conditions. Thirdly, I now feel that high cell count or brushless does not equal nirvana like people make out.

Running 3S simply adds more power and with power comes heat. 3S on brushed or brushless gets hotter. Without a big ESC and big motor you're going to get heat issues not matter the tech used. Slow produces heat without the appropriate gearing.

If you've geared for speed, you need a seriously big and expensive ESC/motor combo to handle/dissipate it. Hence the popularity of the MMP/Tekin combo. Big and expensive, well build motor and well spec'd ESC.

Gearing seems to be everything in crawlers. If you want to do both crawling and trailing, you need to make a major decision and either compromise heavily on how you drive (how long you can do X) or focus the truck at your preference (crawling or trailing) which often makes the truck less fun.

I'm personally feeling atm that if you cannot afford or justify such a heavy duty and expensive brushless system as the MMP/Tekin, a 2 speed is probably your best bet.

This way you're not compromising on gearing and getting heat problems.

Gear the truck for the speed you want (where it doesn't get hot) on say 3S brushed or brushless and then going to the low ratio so crawling isn't compromising at all. You essentially get no heat issues in either realm and you can always run 2S for seriously hardcore crawling in stinking hot weather.

Brushed or brushless, it doesn't matter as you'll not cook motors and can enjoy the best of both worlds. Also if you stay brushed, you don't risk burning up $500 worth of ESC and motor if you have a failure. A 550 can motor and HW 1080 is under $100AUD, add in a cheap shifting servo and the 2 speed and I'm still only at $300AUD ($200 shy of a MMP/Tekin rig). I'll have all the performance I've wanted for crawling and bashing. An affordable brushless system mated to a 2speed on 3S is also a good option for an all round useful truck.

Lets face it, an SCX10 isn't going to be much fun at 25MPH and will just cost a small fortune to tame the Tekin too (all those billet parts cost major cash). The 550 2speed mod will likely require nothing but regular maintenance from what I've seen. My son has basically been a durability tester for the SCX10 and even on 3S brushless, it just laps it up. Keep the speed of 3S, add in low gear for crawling and you kind of have the perfect SCX10 IMO.

I'm going to do exactly this on my Bomber and then mod the SCX10 with a two speed as well. I imagine they will last a rather long time in this configuration and won't need loads of additional parts thrown at them to hold together.

That is for a future build thread as I need an ESC to sort a Yeti heat problem first. These little trucks cost a small fortune but are a serious load of fun! ;-)
 
You're right that 3s does create more heat than 2s and a lot of people really enjoy 3s (myself included) but i've geared very low to compensate so that way the only time i generate more heat on 3s than i do on 2s when rock crawling is if i take advantake of that extra power the 3s provides. If i drive carefully and don't get into binds or mash the throttle then 3s on rocks is alright. It's just more tempting to make use of it.
 
100%!

This is kind of where I'm heading as if you had the two speed you have all of that 3S grunt geared right for crawling but then could click into high ratio for decent wheel speed on the trail. The best of both worlds and you can piece meal the purchases for the build. You can individually buy affordable parts like ESC, motor and then 3S lipo so you can then actually drive the truck and then get the servo and gearbox parts; no big outlays and risks of torching expensive stuff (which really took the fun out of the modding experience).

After (briefly) experiencing the Bomber on 3S and comparing it to my Rock Rey on 2S, there is zero comparison. There is no way a Bomber that can crawl ok, would be ok doing similar speed to the RR. For the amount it would cost to hold the Bomber together for fast stuff, I'd be far better to be realistic and keep it sane and have a truck that actually handles rock racing (rather than constantly rolling over and flipping). It's trying to make a sows ear into a silk purse...like a Rock Rey as a crawler...only pain and suffering awaits (well burning parts and broken stuff anyway lol).

I'd be very happy with a Bomber that has the speed of a 27T motor and can crawl slowly without cooking.

In my personal op, I have pretty humble requirements but this elusive goal just seems so difficult to obtain without heat or great expense.

I'm prepared to try the 2sp any as it was my very first idea but no one seems to really like it.

You're right that 3s does create more heat than 2s and a lot of people really enjoy 3s (myself included) but i've geared very low to compensate so that way the only time i generate more heat on 3s than i do on 2s when rock crawling is if i take advantake of that extra power the 3s provides. If i drive carefully and don't get into binds or mash the throttle then 3s on rocks is alright. It's just more tempting to make use of it.
 
A 2 speed is totally unnecessary if you are running brushless or a high quality brushed motor. You can get the speed and torque without introducing more moving parts that add another level of potential breakage. Heat and gearing is the number 1 thing in all RC's, not just crawlers. A good brushed motor will run very well on 2s and 3s and not get too hot. Do you have a heat gun? What temps were you seeing? I will say that I don't always agree with it but in the hobby especially with electronics, you get what you pay for. Sometimes it's better to spend a little more up front to avoid all the issues cheap stuff brings. Even the higher end HW components would have been sufficient. "Cry once".
 
To be honest i was thinking the two speed route as well.

A holmes hobbies Crawlmaster Pro 540 is $84.99 and international shipping is $36.00
UK mail handling fee is approx $10 and tax on it would be around $17
Thats approx $150 for a good brushed motor alone which will need to be rebuilt every so often and thats a problem if you don't own or have a friend with a comm lathe and i'd be reluctant to believe any brushed motor can be geared in a way that it can crawl a heavy truck up and over rocks at a snails pace without stalling and also be able to do the type of top end i'd be happy with that i could easily attain with a cheapo 540 motor and a 2 speed trans.
 
Nope.
Seen plenty of videos though.

I could get a 2 speed trans, waterproof micro servo and 5 cheap brushed motors for the price of 1 good brushed one that would eventually need to be sent off to be rebuilt and incurring more expenses.

I've no doubt in my mind the motors will be worlds apart, but i couldn't justify the cost personally.
 
I have been following this thread with much interest. I think that the most suggested route for power is with the brushed motor and 3s battery. I finished my SC10 II and tossed in my sons stock motor and esc for power. I am sure that things will change (as we are new to this type of vehicle) in the future. But this set up was, well, slow. Climbed well however. As were into 1/10 off road racing for a bit, we have lots of pieces laying around. I put a HW V3.4 esc (sure that's the one I have :shock:) and a 17t brushless sensored motor with stock gearing.
In my view it seems to crawl very well (keep in mind we are still kind of new to crawling) and has decent trail speed on 2s batteries (we have a bunch of these). Have no idea what gearing I should be using but it seems fine right now, though I would not mind a suggestion....
But the bottom line is that the vehicles are fun and seem to run well at this point.
 
I played with the Wraith and its new Tekin ROC412 and Mamba X. It seems to do really well.

As stated before, I have the HW Justock in my Bomber and now my Mamba X and Tekin in my Wraith. The Wraith definitely has more power for ease of hill clumbimg, etc. I dont notice a significant drop in speed in the Wraith like I do the Bomber going uphill or tackling other obstacles.

I will say, my son and I went on a 2 mile hike up a mountain and had zero issues with the HobbyWing getting hot. In fact, the 5 Ah battery lasted the whole 2+ hr trip up amd back. The 40A ESC was really easy on battery life. I'm impressed!
 
I run a HobbyWing 35A ESC and 17.5 BL motor on 2S in nearly all my 1.9 rigs....the combo is under $60 IIRC. 3 seasons so far and no issues. ESC is programmable, and they are geared down for good torque and have just enough wheelspeed for me. Glad I made the switch.

I did find the combo a little lacking in my Wraith....I run a 13.5/60A/2S combo in that rig now.

I also run a few Castles, outrunners, 1 ROC and a few remaining brushed. The Hobbywing stuff has compared nicely.

Hats off to Ty@Tekin...great comments a few posts ago as well!
 
I tried the SCX10 on 3S today and the 27T in the Bomber on 2S for some trailing. It wasn't very good. Both trucks got super hot. The brushless system got to about 55 degrees C with some pretty easy stuff on a 34 degree C afternoon in about 20 minutes and seemed to be getting hotter and hotter the more if was driven (just really mild crawling and cruising around some hard dirt on the trail); I pulled out the 3S lipo and put in a 2S and it was happy to crawl and cruise around at max speed. Stayed nice and just reasonably warm (say 45 degrees C) for the rest of the session. The Bomber was ok going moderate speeds but slow was bad news. It got hot and stayed hot >50 degrees (motor) even taking it super easy. It would easily hit 60 degrees with just a touch of effort. Back went the 35T.

I kind of conclude that the SCX10 HW system is possibly ok for a bit of crawling on 3S in a cold climate but 2S if you're going to really crawl the crap out of it. 3S is ok for trailing in cooler weather. Zooming around seems fine until you try to climb something and the airflow stops. Just like the brushed Bomber, heat and gearing is a major issue.

One thing to consider is that the SCX10 on 2S isn't fast with a 17.5T motor. I think I was quite wrong initially and they weren't as fast as I though now I again have a brushed Bomber to compare too. Stock gearing with the SCX10 and Bomber are about the same on 2S. That is a 35T brushed Bomber vs a 17.5T brushless SCX10 that comes stock with a 27T...and the SCX10 and Bomber were basically similar speed before...they are also similar speed now.

I'm really just thinking about the Titan 21T motor now to compare.

I don't feel confident running 3S brushless or brushed. 2S on the Bomber with even a moderate turn motor is a time bomb and 3S on the brushless system is potentially too. A quality 35T in the Bomber probably would be fine on 2S but I imagine it would still get hot without a 10T pinion. It would be darn slow then though...

If the Titan works and stays cool on 2S with the Bomber, maybe I'll just gear the SCX10 up a touch so they are about the same speed on 2S and if they stay cool simply be happy. 2 speed gearboxes for hardcore crawling as required.

Keep the rock racers for the fast stuff and don't try to make them do what the other does.

I honestly have no idea how people get decent wheel speed on 3S and not cook stuff. 3S with no wheel speed is definitely possible but having both seems to be a tough call without a sizable dollar infusion.
 
I really only run 3s. I have an SCX with Novak 45 that I run 2s in but it has a Summit transmission (spare parts build) and a beast II that I run 2s (also a 2 speed but more of a space problem). Every other crawler/rock racer I run 3s. I have never burnt up a motor or ESC. Broken parts maybe but the electronics stay strong. Undergearing is just as bad as overgearing for creating heat. Do you have a heat gun? As long as you stay under 180 (82c) you'll be fine. 180 feels really hot to the touch and you may think your way too hot but it's all good. 55c is only about 130f so you're just barely warm.
 
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I honestly have no idea how people get decent wheel speed on 3S and not cook stuff. 3S with no wheel speed is definitely possible but having both seems to be a tough call without a sizable dollar infusion


Proper motor and esc. Yes it costs upfront to run 3s, I have never cooked stuff, but the correct KV, battery and gears make the difference



Hang up and Drive
 
This is JMHO but I concur with the expensive stuff = heat in check.

Wheelspeed and crawling costs money.

I don't personally concur with 82 degrees C being ok though.

In my experience, hot = soon to die. Heat kills consumer (i.e. cheaply made tech which our gear is) electronics quickly. The hotter it gets and the more frequently it gets hot, the quicker. These are likely not thick, through plated, dual sided, high end PCBs. They are likely cheapo SMD stuff spec'd 'just' with what works and nothing more.

So IMPO, BIG = far safer which is why a 550 sized motor and big ESC which works costs far more.

Spec'ing for what you need doesn't provide a lot of margin on 3S from my experience.

Now if you geared that 3S rig down to the speed on 2S, then ok, you'll probably keep it within an acceptable thermal envelope but then wheelspeed has gone out the window and you could argue that you might as well be running 2S as it's not like it doesn't have loads of torque on 2S.

The SCX10 still works great on 2S as I virtually can't get it hot but put in a 3S pack and just tootle up some hills for 5 minutes and it's 60+ C and climbing. It may well stay at 78 degrees C but lets be realistic, why risk smoking all the stuff in the truck?

When my ESC went, it took out the motor and in 2 scant seconds heated the lipo up BIG TIME. I was just lucky I had the truck open to yank the battery. If that was tucked inside an SCX10, in the 10 seconds it would have taken to get the clips off and get the lipo out that brand new and decently expensive 3S 3300 Gens Ace and probably the RX and servo would have been a flaming mess. The lipo fire would have been bad news. It might have taken out $350 worth of truck without even burning up the body.

In helis I always went big. If a heli ran 3S, I ran 6S and if it was 6S I ran 12S and my electronics never got over warm even on a 38degree C day. I saw plenty of Castles and stuff come down cooking hot and some turn into BBQ's one of which took out $1200 worth of heli at the bare minimum.

Call me cautious from experience. I'm happy to have electronics sitting firmly at 55-60 C when under pressure as I know I then have headroom if something binds or it's not getting airflow and decides to suddenly get hotter.

When you're taking it super easy and your temps are climbing and climbing you clearly know you're pushing the envelope.
 
I didn't read the books posted but caught a few things, and I know of plenty of home stereo amplifiers that operate in Class A only and get so hot you cannot touch them.

And I'm pretty sure most people here have no idea how Celsius converts to Farenheit so you might want to post numbers most can quickly understand. Might help with responses. And shorter posts.
 
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78 degrees at the motor won't smoke anything. Like you said, your opinion is it's too hot. The fact is as long as you stay UNDER 180 (82ish) you will be fine, castle even higher for brushless. I regularly come off the track at 185 with my SCT Tekin and LRP. Never had a problem with any of them. Motors are stills as good as new except for bearing replacements. I understand that it's not the same and I run those on the raged edge but nonetheless the temp is the temp. I guess the manufactures don't know the max temp of their electronics?
 
I didn't read the books posted but caught a few things, and I know of plenty of home stereo amplifiers that operate in Class A only and get so hot you cannot touch them.

And I'm pretty sure most people here have no idea how Celsius converts to Farenheit so you might want to post numbers most can quickly understand. Might help with responses. And shorter posts.



Never mind car stereo amps. Before class D those things would melt the carpets.
 
Home amps, 100% biased into class A.

This one is about 10 inches tall, and it's the baby one. It easily heats a room better than a space heater.

aleph-front.jpg
 
I definitely appreciate all your contributions. Thanks for your input! "thumbsup"

80C = ~180F.

I'm not in any way saying manufacturers don't know their own products but lets be honest, they are not guaranteeing them are they? You heat up your ESC rated to 185 to 185 all the time, and if it pops on the 5th go, well then, that's life. If it lasts a year or 5, that's seriously awesome. Buy yourself a cool beer! lol

I don't think you can compare something with lots of airflow running right at it's thermal limit to something that keeps getting hotter and hotter and hotter with the same load.

You are loading your truck and it's getting to that temp but no hotter.

I wouldn't dare compare, a quality class A device or a Class B or D amp made with a decent PCB to be run hot with big heat sinks to cheapo little devices crammed into a little case for $15 made out of China and sold to the public for $85.

I don't believe the normal (read, cheap) ESC FETs are really designed to handle extended switching at full load like a crawler generates at say 2% throttle. The ESC is trying to make the motor turn but it's stopping and starting and the FETs are doing all the heavy lifting stuff. They are usually tiny and placed in series so if one goes or reduces its ability to switch, the others have to then work outside their capabilities and then it all goes south.

Again, this is just my personal POV. The guys at the hobbyshop have been racing for years and just shook their heads about 3S and crawling and we spent a lot of time chatting.

I've seen the results of hot ESC's plenty of times. Thermals and smoke and fires. I was into RC helis and plenty of planes and helis let out the magic smoke. Never mine though like I said above.

The one thing I read a lot about on this site. In fact, the number one thing after breaking parts is cooking stuff. Seems to be a trend as soon as guys seem to head to 3S. I might just have stumbled onto loads of posts about this stuff but that is what I've personally found.

Don't take my word for anything as it's just anecdotal but this is how I'm going to roll. I can't afford to dump money into the trucks and have stuff burn up. Idle fun then becomes a money pit.
 
I wonder how many watts mono or stereo that puts out for the size of that rather massive heat sink?

How many watts does a little 540 motor pull under load with an ESC with a tiny little heatsink

I not personally sure you can compare audiophile level gear and tiny ESC's but that's just me.

I'm just musing ultimately.

The bottom line: I cannot get wheelspeed and crawling with a 3S rig. I can have crawling OR wheelspeed but not both.

I imagine with a big ESC and a 550 sized motor I could easily have both.

Home amps, 100% biased into class A.

This one is about 10 inches tall, and it's the baby one. It easily heats a room better than a space heater.

aleph-front.jpg
 
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