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ToyZuki's SCX10.2

Just started building mine last night. Installing those nuts into the plates is a major pain in the ass. After a lot of trial and error I found a way to press them in using small channel locks and a block of plastic with a cutout on the backside as a press board. Can you tell me if this is OK? The nuts are actually spreading the G10 plate apart where they are pressed in and I did hear some cracking as they were going in. I tried working them in by hand using the installed screw as leverage but there was no way those were going in without significant force.
 

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I didn't want to remove any material for that very reason. He said they would be tight and you definitely want them to be since these are all that holds the chassis together besides the skid. On with the build!
 
Tight yes but I feel its way tighter than it needs to be specifically on the t-case. My motor mount ones basically fell in.
 
Right, knowing myself, I was just afraid I'd take too much off. All mine were the exact same super tight press fit.
 
I'm thinking the issue is the Tcase is such a small piece compared to the other two that its much more rigid and won't flex easily to get those nuts in which should be countered with making them a little bigger. Just my thought.
 
Well, I got her this far. This is how she'll sit until parts start showing up. This chassis caught me totally off guard so I didn't have my usual stockpile of parts at the ready. I'm going to order up several 70mm threaded posts to tie the chassis together more solidly. I need to order up a reverse rotation Holmes motor, that Axial silver can is just for mockup since that's about all they're good for besides paperweight. Need to get some gear covers for the front gearbox and transfer case. Need to get a servo, body (probably China JK), sliders, axles, etc. This is going to be a pretty slow build compared to my normal pace but, I'm really excited for this build and it was a nice surprise. I'll definitely be following the other builds to see what I can learn.
 

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Well, I got her this far. This is how she'll sit until parts start showing up. This chassis caught me totally off guard so I didn't have my usual stockpile of parts at the ready. I'm going to order up several 70mm threaded posts to tie the chassis together more solidly. I need to order up a reverse rotation Holmes motor, that Axial silver can is just for mockup since that's about all they're good for besides paperweight. Need to get some gear covers for the front gearbox and transfer case. Need to get a servo, body (probably China JK), sliders, axles, etc. This is going to be a pretty slow build compared to my normal pace but, I'm really excited for this build and it was a nice surprise. I'll definitely be following the other builds to see what I can learn.

in your image i like the motor moved lower in the chassis, but the angle on the transmission output shaft seems extreme. So one advantage of running this chassis is the lower CoG. What are the other advantages? Just for clarification Im fairly new to the Rock crawling scene.
 
Other advantages are the chassis design itself. Many link and suspension tuning options built in. The chassis itself is much lighter than the steel it replaces. Higher clearance skid. A lot more room for a full scale interior. The option to run overdrive front or standard gearing with the swap of the rear driveshaft position. That driveshaft angle is much less than the OG SCX10 driveline angles were stock and far from extreme.
 
Other advantages are the chassis design itself. Many link and suspension tuning options built in. The chassis itself is much lighter than the steel it replaces. Higher clearance skid. A lot more room for a full scale interior. The option to run overdrive front or standard gearing with the swap of the rear driveshaft position. That driveshaft angle is much less than the OG SCX10 driveline angles were stock and far from extreme.

Thank you Screamer! I figured it was much lighter and that the options for suspension tuning were there. I did not know that the skid was higher. And its good to hear that the shaft angle is not as bad as i had perceived. So does the battery sit in the rear now? How do you protect the gears and lubricate them with them exposed to the elements?
 
I haven't decided where I'll mount my battery yet but there are a couple options. The gears won't be exposed much longer. There's a guy on facebook that makes really nice covers for less than $20 shipped. I've got those on the way now. I'll update here when I get them installed.
 
Cover.

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i cant wait to see the motor mounted inside the chassis. I want to see how close it will be getting to rocks.
 
Thank you Screamer! I figured it was much lighter and that the options for suspension tuning were there. I did not know that the skid was higher. And its good to hear that the shaft angle is not as bad as i had perceived. So does the battery sit in the rear now? How do you protect the gears and lubricate them with them exposed to the elements?

Battery mounting is up to the user. One could mount it on top of the transfer case, up front next to the servo, on a slider, to the right of the motor.

i cant wait to see the motor mounted inside the chassis. I want to see how close it will be getting to rocks.

The lower links hit before the motor.
 
Holmes 550 Crawlmaster Pro fits with room to spare thanks to the tapered endbell. I've been wanting to run one of these motors since they became available so I'm really glad it fits. My Crawlmaster 540s are great so this 550 should be awesome. Also got a Hitec 7954sh mounted up for steering duties. Still on the hunt for some AR44s. I'd love to get this to roller status.
 

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