Too late... Ordered...:twisted:
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Skaldiddog's "Progress"
- Thread starter SkaldidDog
- Start date
Too late... Ordered...:twisted:
Frankenwheely
D-Wray 4 Prez!
Ooooh, are you in trouble?:ror:
vodka child
Rock Crawler
hahahaMe too. Thanks for the accidental head's up. I've been checking nearly every day, but this would be the time I forget to look for a couple days.
SkaldidDog
2013 2.2P Nat. Champion
Del Monte
Y-Town Crawlers
Yes "thumbsup"
Joel...or Jake...can you share the settings you're using on the BR Mini's? Just curious to see how your preferences for drag brake, brake amount, throttle curves, and differences between front and rear setups to compare to what I've been running on my rigs. Obviously things differ between rigs, motors, weights, terrain, driving style, but I'm still curious.
SkaldidDog
2013 2.2P Nat. Champion
I leave mine (BRSLs) bone stock and plan on doing the same with the minis. No minis as of yet. Hopefully today. I adjust the throttle response curve +100 with my radio for maximum instant pop. Still loads of low end resolution, especially given my motors with stock oil drum thickness cans. All other parameters at neutral.
I'm 99% sure GingerBeard Man leaves his ESC stock but may tune the radio as bit. Let's wait for him to chime in and tell me I'm wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.
J
I'm 99% sure GingerBeard Man leaves his ESC stock but may tune the radio as bit. Let's wait for him to chime in and tell me I'm wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.
J
Calderwood
I wanna be Dave
Wouldn't lathed cans be smoother on the bottom end then stock cans?
JeremyH
I wanna be Dave
That's funny, I do the exact opposite. You can pull the trigger about halfway before there is any response.
How are you going to mount your mini's? I've just left my BR-SL open to the air and lashed it to an electronics plate with lacing cord. But I'd like to shrink wrap the mini's and servo-tape them down except for the suspicion that it would contribute to heat build-up. Somehow running no heat-sink and wrapping them up in a plastic cocoon just seems wrong.
I'll be wrapping them up in a cocoon "thumbsup"
I've been running BR-XL's, Mamba Micros, and Sidewinder Micros like this for quite some time now in different rigs and haven't had the first issue related to heat. I think heat will only become an issue if you like to run full battery packs back to back. Most of the 2.2pro rigs are running something like a 450mah pack so you'd get something like 15 minutes of run time...usually less. So unless you run 1 pack - 15 minutes and then pull it off and throw in and run through another pack - 30 minutes I don't think you'll have any problems with excessive heat.
I've been running BR-XL's, Mamba Micros, and Sidewinder Micros like this for quite some time now in different rigs and haven't had the first issue related to heat. I think heat will only become an issue if you like to run full battery packs back to back. Most of the 2.2pro rigs are running something like a 450mah pack so you'd get something like 15 minutes of run time...usually less. So unless you run 1 pack - 15 minutes and then pull it off and throw in and run through another pack - 30 minutes I don't think you'll have any problems with excessive heat.
On startup-I think that is what Joel is saying too. Stock 540 cans have better brake, and more abrupt startup.
Depends on whether the thinning effects back iron circuit permanence coefficient (PC) or zero current airgap flux density more. Second order effects can be measured directly. If %KV increase is more than %loss in detent force the startup is worse. Ceramic magnets in a 540 are weak and thick enough, and airgap is small enough, that startup gets better going from 50 thou to 25 thou can thickness. Below this thickness startup gets worse while KV shoots through the roof and detent force falls only slightly.
These rules don't hold up in brushed motors when the KV is much faster than 2100, as brush losses start to dominate the circuit model and applied voltage for startup rises. This is for a regular copper standup or laydown brush. Larger brushes like the P-94 allow for slightly faster KVs before brush losses affect startup.
Depends on whether the thinning effects back iron circuit permanence coefficient (PC) or zero current airgap flux density more. Second order effects can be measured directly. If %KV increase is more than %loss in detent force the startup is worse. Ceramic magnets in a 540 are weak and thick enough, and airgap is small enough, that startup gets better going from 50 thou to 25 thou can thickness. Below this thickness startup gets worse while KV shoots through the roof and detent force falls only slightly.
These rules don't hold up in brushed motors when the KV is much faster than 2100, as brush losses start to dominate the circuit model and applied voltage for startup rises. This is for a regular copper standup or laydown brush. Larger brushes like the P-94 allow for slightly faster KVs before brush losses affect startup.
With standard Blk shrink OK?
Really...read 2 posts up (#534) :roll:
Yes...typically it's thicker than the clear shrink wrap that most guys are using, but you would still be fine. Keep in mind you don't have to overdo the wrap either...you're only trying to protect the wires, esc, contact points from touching metallic surfaces and/or to protect from abrasion. You're not trying to "seal" them up.
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