wraith no more. starting a new thread

[evan03]

10lbs with 2s 5000 bat on board.

I had planned to shed a lot of weight in the side plates but man it crawled awesome as is. I may still end up shedding weight ounce I get some more time on it

Though it could shed a lot of weight that would also mage it top heavy

 

[evan03]

lowered ride height about 1/4" and clearanced the hot raceing knuckles to clear the stock wraith wheels. most likely these ripsaws wont hold up to this weight any more.

pics are with my good camera been lazy lately and using my phone to much







ohhh the ripsaws aren't glued I liked how they looked so I took some photos with them on

 

[Calderwood]

Regarding the hot racing nuckles with stock wraith wheels. You don't have to clearance anything if you use the stock axial arms on the hot racing knuckles.

 

[evan03]

Possibly. Had to clearance on the knuckle itself. To clear the 8 hole bead lock rings. So I'd say no. Have you done it?

 

[evan03]

Also took a smidge off the drag link rod end to clear the wheel. Its actually touching when it turns but will self clearance now.

 

[evan03]

heres how my stock wheels on hot raceing knuckles turned out with steering on clearance hr steering arms


passenger side


driver side


you can see where ive rounded the drag link revo rod end to clear the wheel.

its actualy still touching but I figured id let the wheel and rod end clearance eachother.

may test with wraith steering arms just for fun. but itl most likely end up with rod ends in the wheel to. almost has to for them have the same tie rod.

 

[Calderwood]

Possibly. Had to clearance on the knuckle itself. To clear the 8 hole bead lock rings. So I'd say no. Have you done it?

Yes I have. My wraith has kit wheels, hot-racing knuckles, and stock axial arms. Everything clears fine. I wouldn't have said it works in my previous post, unless I was sure it did.

 

[evan03]

10/4
around here you have to check theres a few guys doing the walking and the rest talking

the furthest in hole on the HR steering arm must still be closer to the wheel then the wraith arms. im assuming. I wont be changing mine to test the wraith arms because I rememberd ive red locktited these hot raceing arms on. and they've been holding well.

but I am curios to see how difrent they are.

also curious what steering your running with you knuckles with wraith arms bolted on them.

 

[evan03]

since these knuckles seem to be the topic I took some pics compareing the stock wraith steering arms to the hot raceing clearance arms. what I found is my steering would be unchanged and the wheel might not bolt on due to straight taper on the stock steering arm this would be no biggie since id just clearance it but not everyone has the tools to do this. my hot raceing arms clearance with a dip in them to clear the wheels. pics talk way better then I can.

and maybe nigels wraith is difrent.mine is all custom. steering is one of as well as all links wich may be why im having clearance issues and he isn't

anyways heres the pics


this is how the wraith arm will bolt on with 1/8 to 3/16 maybe 1/4" gap on the knuckle.



on the knuckle by the hot raceing letters I had to clearance to clear the 8 hole axial bead locks. the wraith arm is thinner so it may clear the axial 8 hole bead locks(but likely not) stock kit wraith wheels will clear because they don't have bead lock rings

however they will not clear the hot raceing arms that have multiple steering mounting points.


a pic just for shits since I had the camera out and taking pics

 

[Calderwood]

I have my axial arms bolted to the bottom of the arm mount (which still is higher than the placement on the stock knuckles). It doesn't put the tie rod as high as yours but gives me plenty of clearance with the kit wheels.

 

[evan03]

Damn that's a good idea and completely changes things. I hadn't even thought of putting the arm on the bottom.

 

[evan03]

6.0 dual stage CI foam installed in a r35 ripsaw. I'm flat broke right now and can't afford TSl's for a while. Ripsaws work very well and happen to be the only thing I have with tread. Love my boggers but there about don't. As much as I dislike following the bandwagon I've grown to like thecrockbeast tread. But will hold true and run a set of tsl's or another set of boggers maybe claws

Would like a set a of 5.5 foams but the 6.0s are what I have so I'm using them


These foams are over sized and ripsaws have a smallish bead so I needed a 3rd hand.

These foams completely change the ripsaws for better or worse I won't know till I can afford a motor

I

 

[evan03]

Better pics of the ripsaws with 6.0 dual stage foams

Not that anyone cares

 

[TheScaleAddict]

That's a lot of foam in that there tire....

 

[evan03]

Yeah. Wish I had 5.5s but I don't

 

[evan03]

to broke to do anything this weekend so I spent the morning tilling the front pasture and seeding with pasture grass. now im playing with bends in the lower links for clearance. front axle link is bent in the center and rear is bent at the axle rod end.

this is where I think doing it yourself comes into play. I see the vp links and other links have swooping bends going the wrong way hindering clearance. maybe that's just me?

liking the bend in the center of the link best so will probly do another set of rear links with bends to match the front


I wonder how the VP lower links would look flipped over for better clearance in the rocks..

 

[67mustang]

Why not try to run the knuckles backwards like i do? It will give you more leverage against the knuckle. It also bends further in and won't touch the wheels.

 

[evan03]

You have any photo of that mustang not sure I'm understanding what you did

 

[evan03]

finaly got around to doing the rear highclearance lower links. im excited to try them out on the rocks to me it seems the benefits may be huge compared to straight lower links.





watching a ebay auction that ends in a few hours for a 1/8 scale 2100 kv sensored motor.. hoping to get it if it doesn't go to high

 

[Natedog]

Me to. I think it'll be slightly smoother and I likly won't notice it on 5 and 6 s.


Grrrrr watts on 5s 2100kv is specked at 2590. Off course the 1900kv motors what specs patent listed . Actually I bett it doesn't matter give or take 500 watts or so.
Here's the 2100 kV motor
Turnigy 1/8th Scale 4 Pole Brushless Motor - 2100KV (USA Warehouse)


For those that care these motors look to be copies of the castle neu 1515 series

IMO using lower kv rating and gear/volt up is best option for efficiency and lower operating temps...as long as you can fit the proper 32 pitch gear ratio in there. "thumbsup"