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Wraith Beginners Guide

If you want to go only castle then I would say go with the SCT system. It will have the most torque for low end control. Brandon from Axial has ran that setup and was the one to suggest it to me.

Do you think the stock axles/shafts can handle the 4-pole motor that comes with this system? Should I plan on beefing up the drivelines right off the bat? (I have one in the box waiting for the kit version to come out, just doing my homework "thumbsup")
 
Do you think the stock axles/shafts can handle the 4-pole motor that comes with this system? Should I plan on beefing up the drivelines right off the bat? (I have one in the box waiting for the kit version to come out, just doing my homework "thumbsup")

Im still running the stock shafts in a Wraith with the SV2 and 4-pole 3800 motor. Keep the stock gearing and stick to 2S.

I even did the sled pull at AWCC with that Wraith. Talk about entertaining :mrgreen:
 
Driveshafts will be needed at the time of install. 8)

I have actually been running mine on the Castle SCT system with the 3800kv 4 pole motor and haven't had any issues with the driveshafts... even on 3S...

This system doesn't really allow me to put it into any kind of torque binds though, which it seems is where the twisting of the shafts is taking place.

I would however recommend upgrading your spur and pinion to 32P, the 48P will eventually strip out with all that power.
 
I have actually been running mine on the Castle SCT system with the 3800kv 4 pole motor and haven't had any issues with the driveshafts... even on 3S...

This system doesn't really allow me to put it into any kind of torque binds though, which it seems is where the twisting of the shafts is taking place.

I would however recommend upgrading your spur and pinion to 32P, the 48P will eventually strip out with all that power.

I'm guessing it may be a matter or driving style. The VXL was close to the same kv but likely had less torque than the SCT systems. The hard launches on pavement with 3s were likely most of my problems.
 
I don't know about the drive shafts. I have gone through 4 now. Running stock motor with 3s. Although everytime I have twisted one I was trying to crawl on rocks, jump then crawl rocks again. Maybe the shock of getting traction so fast is allowing them to twist. Either way, I've got several spares and plan to use them up.
 
I have actually been running mine on the Castle SCT system with the 3800kv 4 pole motor and haven't had any issues with the driveshafts... even on 3S...

This system doesn't really allow me to put it into any kind of torque binds though, which it seems is where the twisting of the shafts is taking place.

I would however recommend upgrading your spur and pinion to 32P, the 48P will eventually strip out with all that power.

I've been looking for the 32p spur gears and I cant find who makes them
and says they fit the trans. Any info?

Thanks
 
Im still running the stock shafts in a Wraith with the SV2 and 4-pole 3800 motor. Keep the stock gearing and stick to 2S.

I even did the sled pull at AWCC with that Wraith. Talk about entertaining :mrgreen:


I was talking about the MMP SCT version with the 1415 2400kV motor :twisted: I had bought it to put into a FOFF rig, but I've ditched that project for now. Think its overkill? Should I stick with a Sidewinder-based ESC system?
 
I need help; the puller 10t is getting hot, I have stock gearing, do I need to go up in pinion or go down in pinion.

Running on 3s and 4s

Can you help!!!!
 
Great thread here guys. I love my wraith. Only issues I've had at all were the two screws on top and bottom of each c hub. All 4 screws fell out during the first couple days of running it. I replaced them with a slightly larger screw in each spot, along with some washers for proper spacing from the dog bones. So far they have worked great! Looking to make some custom alum steering links and find those 2.2 swamper tires and some vanquish wheels soon. Since getting this rig, I haven't touched my 4x4 stampede or the 1/8 scale kyosho buggy.

Thanks again for all the info here!
 
Another option to lower the height a little is to use these bits off the parts tree. This lowers the ride height without loosing any diff clearance.

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Put them in here at the same time as laying the shocks back to the inner hole on the top mounting. You can see the ring spacing the shock tower up. You'll need screws that are just a little longer than the stock ones.

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Then on the rear undo the upper shock mount on the chassis, flip it and re attach. I had planned to make braces to join the chassis shock mount back to the cage shock mount but it doesn't seem to be posing a problem so far.

I think the slight bendyness of the chassis, links and cage are saving parts from breaking.

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