I don't what happened, I got on this mini kick and all my 1/10 stuff is just sitting although none of it really needs much anyway, I can't wait to leave work and go wrench on that thing. Those diff covers look great!
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WPL C14
- Thread starter Brake Weight
- Start date
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
Thank you.
I have to leave mine under the tree so I am building the little pieces I can and leaving the major assembly for the 25th.
I ended up buying this link kit just to save the headache of measuring and ordering.
That link kit should work just fine, I got link kits on the way for mine too, I was gonna make my own but it's just easier this way. Wouldn't really pay to make your own unless you built a lot of them.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
Exactly. I wanted to use the nice aluminum heim joints but to get 16 of them with some nice rods was more than the truck lol. I used them on my Lunchbox for a front tower brace and they do look beautiful...but oh well.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
I just redordered the 2 speed tansmission.
Also I ordered a LED controller...and I only have a 3ch. Oops.
Also I ordered a LED controller...and I only have a 3ch. Oops.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
First couple pics of my build.
The 3d printed servo holder worked out great with the stock WPL servo. If anyone knows whether a MG90s would be better suited than the stock WPL servo, that'd be awesome.
Also, I broke the first kits tranny trying to get the driveshafts off. Oops. Thank god I ordered 2 kits.
I used heat shrink to hold the pins in the drive shaft, I have no nails and for the life of my could not get the stupid rings over the couplers. Also had to cut about 1/4" off the transfer case's rear output to fit the new metal drivershafts that came in the metal upgrade kit
I think the Punisher diff covers came out awesome. Link to diff cover designs
All my batteries are XT-60. I was going to just make a JST to XT60 adapter, but I do not think I will ever use JSTs. I have about 6 Zippy 1000mah Lipos that go in my kid's Rally Extreme and my WLtoys 9115. Sadly I don't think the 5000mah Lipo from my Lunchbox would fit. I did solder JST connectors on the motors along with the supplied resistors.
The 3d printed servo holder worked out great with the stock WPL servo. If anyone knows whether a MG90s would be better suited than the stock WPL servo, that'd be awesome.
Also, I broke the first kits tranny trying to get the driveshafts off. Oops. Thank god I ordered 2 kits.
I used heat shrink to hold the pins in the drive shaft, I have no nails and for the life of my could not get the stupid rings over the couplers. Also had to cut about 1/4" off the transfer case's rear output to fit the new metal drivershafts that came in the metal upgrade kit
I think the Punisher diff covers came out awesome. Link to diff cover designs
All my batteries are XT-60. I was going to just make a JST to XT60 adapter, but I do not think I will ever use JSTs. I have about 6 Zippy 1000mah Lipos that go in my kid's Rally Extreme and my WLtoys 9115. Sadly I don't think the 5000mah Lipo from my Lunchbox would fit. I did solder JST connectors on the motors along with the supplied resistors.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
My 2 speed that got lost in the mail and i got refunded from seller, well it pingedc yesterday as released from customs and is out for delivery.:ror:
Another project I had been working on was a set of 3d printed heavy wheels. The stock WPL wheels weigh 5.7g each. The ones I modified are 14.1g each. Over half an ounce per wheel.
Another project I had been working on was a set of 3d printed heavy wheels. The stock WPL wheels weigh 5.7g each. The ones I modified are 14.1g each. Over half an ounce per wheel.
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
Ugh! Those retainer rings/springs.. they’re hell to get on, true dat. I used my nails and quite a bit of force to shove them on from the concave side of the coupler. No. Fun.
By the by, didn’t it strike You also as strange that the drive shafts are way too long? It got me to dremel off about 3mm in total per side to make everything fit. But now they’re on, they work great, and look ace to boot.
I dó have to admit having to adapt and modify ‘stock’ parts to make them fit the ‘stock’ car, reminded me of the days when I started with rc cars, mid 80’s. The fit of some kits in those days was..ehrm.. ‘none too precise’. A lot of drilling A-arms, rethreading screwholes, re-drilling chassis posts to make them fit correctly.. aahh.. ‘The days of yore’. I kind of liked having to adapt stuff. Feels way more satisfying once it succeeds and fits nicely.
By the by, didn’t it strike You also as strange that the drive shafts are way too long? It got me to dremel off about 3mm in total per side to make everything fit. But now they’re on, they work great, and look ace to boot.
I dó have to admit having to adapt and modify ‘stock’ parts to make them fit the ‘stock’ car, reminded me of the days when I started with rc cars, mid 80’s. The fit of some kits in those days was..ehrm.. ‘none too precise’. A lot of drilling A-arms, rethreading screwholes, re-drilling chassis posts to make them fit correctly.. aahh.. ‘The days of yore’. I kind of liked having to adapt stuff. Feels way more satisfying once it succeeds and fits nicely.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
Got my 2 speed in yesterday. I had some old Hitec HS-55 servos lying around that have proven very durable over the years so I installed that instead of the stock WPL servo. Its a bit smaller and lighter but should have enough torque to shift. The smaller servo case helps it clear the suspension in back without needing to flip the servo. The servo arm fits right inside the shifter linkage and should be reliable as long as the linkage doesnt loosen up. Maybe some collets and grubs screws would fix that. BTW-I got mine off ebay and it is the one with the return spring instead of the captive link.
The metal driveshafts fit 100% better with the 2 speed's output shafts than they do with the stock tranny. Actually enough space to extend the shafts a mm or two so they aren't right in to the coupler.
The metal driveshafts fit 100% better with the 2 speed's output shafts than they do with the stock tranny. Actually enough space to extend the shafts a mm or two so they aren't right in to the coupler.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
I wanted to find a way to mount the ESC to the servo cover...and so I did. Took the original design someone made, then I created a ESC holder and merged the two designs. Came out awesome, does not even need 2 sided tape for the esc to be secure. As you can tell my work has been very busy 
STL file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3318831
STL file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3318831
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
Mock up of the stock B-series leaf setup.
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
This chassis has the same spacing as the straight C Channel chassis. But the frame is not straight so the axles mount ‘higher’. I moved the remaining bits over and gained maybe 1/8”. It’s not enough and I’ll need to center the wheels a little better, too.
I may try to find a pull start spring at the local small engine shop to see if I can make some new springs with.
I may try to find a pull start spring at the local small engine shop to see if I can make some new springs with.
There's a guy on Youtube that just used the straight frame rails on his, he's not running a bed though, I'm thinking about doing that with my C14 since there aren't any wheel wells to deal with in the rear. It actually looks like it performs just as well as the four linked trucks.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
I got everything built and wired, tomorrow I will have the M2 allthread and ball joints come in so I can finally finish it off.
I made it my mission to have all electronics mounted on the chassis so If I have to remove the body, I don't have to unplug everything. The ESC was easy as I showed before, the Rx not so much. I mounted in the battery box initially all the way in the corner, but when you mount the body it won't fit, so I moved it a few mm to the middle and it fits perfectly!
Battery just fits. It's a Zippy 1000mah pack, have about 6 from other cars. Fits perfect and provides ample juice.
I made it my mission to have all electronics mounted on the chassis so If I have to remove the body, I don't have to unplug everything. The ESC was easy as I showed before, the Rx not so much. I mounted in the battery box initially all the way in the corner, but when you mount the body it won't fit, so I moved it a few mm to the middle and it fits perfectly!
Battery just fits. It's a Zippy 1000mah pack, have about 6 from other cars. Fits perfect and provides ample juice.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Those are some great ideas, thank you all for your posts. Even if that lead wire is big, wrapping it once is still a possibility.
Below are pictures of the axles built with the metal upgrade kit. Obviously it didnt come with directions, so the bronze flanges mystified me on where they went until I fit them in to the hub carriers and the turnbuckle. Can you let me know if they look installed correctly?
Knuckle bushings usually go in from the inside of the c-hub. Wedged between the C-Hub and knuckle.
Which upgraded knuckle set do you have? I bought a set that came with the axles,gears,knuckles, bearings, steering links all together.
The issue.... the damn knuckle setup is pretty useless. It has little steering angle at all when the drive cup has the notches horizontally. It only gets steering back when the dogbone notches are vertical.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
I tried that, the bushing would not fit inside the knuckle. It seems very snug mounted and doesn't jiggle so im not sure. I did notice the binding you speak of, but once the wheel is mounted it pulls the joint tight and does not appear to bind. I also lathered all joints in the supplied grease. Once I get the ball joints tomorrow I should have everything working and can test for sure.
I have this kit: Metal Upgrade Kit
I'm seriously thinking of just running the stock front end parts, I haven't tried my upgraded steering knuckles yet but from what I've been seeing other places stock just works better. I ran the truck hard the other day on 3s with a Trx4 ESC for about an hour and couldn't break it, the only thing upgraded was the steering links and the pinions shimmed. I watched a good video with the two founders of WPL on YouTube, they say they are listening and trying to improve things and from what I've seen with my C24 it's working.
soze
I wanna be Dave
I bought this one. While the gears are fine (after filing down the inside of the axle housing a little)... the damn dogbone and knuckle isn't.
In all honesty I really think the best improvements you really need to do to these is the steering link to the passenger side, M2 hardware with locknuts, metal ring and pinion shimmed correctly, a two speed with 370 motor or the metal geared trans with the 370, a good esc Hobbywing 1625 etc and a decent radio. I'm really thinking metal links and all that other stuff is a waste on these. I'm gonna run the first one basically stock and the other upgraded and see how it goes. Oh possibly metal driveshafts but I couldn't get the stock ones to break or slip with the new design.
chevyfried
Rock Stacker
Yeah that hardware is somewhat different than mine. Different drive shafts, different gears, even the hub carriers are somewhat different.
I do like the steering links though
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