Sarra
Rock Stacker
So, I got a 2002 WRX. If you read the description on my drive video from the exhaust sound thread, you'll see that I blew out the water pump on that drive (ironically it let go just up the street from my house).
So, now I've got to figure out what to do. The prevailing idea is to fix it. It's got 180,000 miles on it, it needs... Well. The engine and gearbox are both pretty much done. The gearbox has a little life left in it, it's just making some pretty awesome noises.
I bought the car with 80k on it, and I knew it had a problem with #4. I tested it, and got pretty low numbers on the compression test for #4, and a leakdown failed, with it blowing straight into the crank case. Sadly, Subaru was fairly bad with the engine's design. The valve lash is set with shim under bucket design, and guess what? It goes way out of spec, typically around 150,000 miles. So, it's been backfiring up through the intake an awful lot lately, so I'm pretty sure I'm burning up my valves.
So, that's both the bottom and top that need rebuilding.
Right now, I'm working a part time job, and while the pay is good, my hours were dependent on a pair of levies that were on our last ballot here. Both failed. I lost about half my hours. So, I've been scouring the local businesses looking for either another part time job, a weekend part time job, or a full time job I could work along with my current part time job.
The plan is, if I can get more income, to start from scratch, and build a new motor. I'm thinking about a 2 liter block, 79mm throw crank (the current crank in my engine is 75mm), forged rods and pistons, and... Hell if I know where I'm going to get head castings. The 2 liter in the US is awful for cracking heads, though it doesn't effect the actual function of the engines. The casting cracks around the spark plug holes. I can't find any 2 liter castings, and complete 2 liter heads are... Not going to happen (not only do I NOT want the put crap shim under bucket junk back in, but I can't even find them to begin with). If I can find some 2 liter heads, I'm planning on doing some good oval springs with titanium retainers, and convert over to the Japanese market shimless buckets. Toss in some lumpy as hell cams, huge injectors (440cc is what I have, 950 to 1,200cc is what I'm looking at), a new computer, a larger turbo, a dyno tune, and voila, I now have a 2.1 stroker motor.
The alternative to buy a front clip, with a closed deck 2 liter (US gets an open deck), that has AVCS (iVTEC but... Fully variable cam control for both intake and exhaust), a twinscroll turbo, and an 8,000 RPM rev limit (US gets 6,800 RPM, mine is currently set to 7,200). Bonus from this route is it would include a 6 speed (currently running a 5 speed), R180 rear diff (R160 is what we got here... R180 has a bigger ring and pinion), axles, and 4/2pot Brembo disc brakes (currently running 2/1pot. Brembos are 12.7", US WRX uses 11.6", I CURRENTLY have 10.6" rotors front and rear on it...) So the JDM front clip would have... Pretty much everything. New engine, transmission, rear diff, axles, hubs brakes. The down side is the wheels. I have the stock 16" wheels on right now with my summer tires, and a set of 15" 1993 Legacy SS wheels with skinny snow tires on them, I'd have to sell my snow tires/wheels, and get either a different set of 16" wheels (I don't like how they look), or spend $1400 on a set of STi wheels (WRX has a 5x100 bolt patter, 52mm backspacing; 2004 STi was 5X100, 52mm backspacing, STi 2005+ is 5x114 with 53mm backspacing).
An alternative would be to build a 6 cylinder. It's expensive, the ECU is a total bitch, but... They have an extra head bolt per cylinder compared to the 4 cylinders, they sound badass, and the Subaru 6 cylinder engines love to rev (9k rev limit with a turbo the size of my head). Perrin built a 2006 STi for SEMA with a 6 cylinder 3.0 turbo, and at 14 PSI of boost, it was putting 450 AWHP down. That turbo isn't even in it's efficiency range until it's around 30 PSI, they just never put injectors in large enough to handle it. The downside would be the cost. Building an H6 3.0 turbo motor costs about what the front clip costs. Plus, the 5 speed the WRX came with cannot handle that much power. In fact, it can barely handle the original stock power output of 227CHP/215CTQ. 300 at the crank is the upper limit, even with a tiny anemic turbo, I'd be passing that mark easily with a 6 cylinder...
And the last option is to buy a beater until I can get the WRX running in all of it's glory again. There was a ford pickup on CL that I really wish I had jumped on. Had a 351 and a 4 speed in it, $670. Clean title, tags (grandfather laws FTW), but it was only RWD. It had a pretty ugly body on it, but it was just the paint that was ugly, it had very few bumps and dings.
Sadly, it's gone, and everything currently up on CL here either has a salvage title, no title, or the seller wants way more than it's worth. >_<
Oh well. I guess I gotta just keep working and keep my eyes out for jobs...
So, now I've got to figure out what to do. The prevailing idea is to fix it. It's got 180,000 miles on it, it needs... Well. The engine and gearbox are both pretty much done. The gearbox has a little life left in it, it's just making some pretty awesome noises.
I bought the car with 80k on it, and I knew it had a problem with #4. I tested it, and got pretty low numbers on the compression test for #4, and a leakdown failed, with it blowing straight into the crank case. Sadly, Subaru was fairly bad with the engine's design. The valve lash is set with shim under bucket design, and guess what? It goes way out of spec, typically around 150,000 miles. So, it's been backfiring up through the intake an awful lot lately, so I'm pretty sure I'm burning up my valves.
So, that's both the bottom and top that need rebuilding.
Right now, I'm working a part time job, and while the pay is good, my hours were dependent on a pair of levies that were on our last ballot here. Both failed. I lost about half my hours. So, I've been scouring the local businesses looking for either another part time job, a weekend part time job, or a full time job I could work along with my current part time job.
The plan is, if I can get more income, to start from scratch, and build a new motor. I'm thinking about a 2 liter block, 79mm throw crank (the current crank in my engine is 75mm), forged rods and pistons, and... Hell if I know where I'm going to get head castings. The 2 liter in the US is awful for cracking heads, though it doesn't effect the actual function of the engines. The casting cracks around the spark plug holes. I can't find any 2 liter castings, and complete 2 liter heads are... Not going to happen (not only do I NOT want the put crap shim under bucket junk back in, but I can't even find them to begin with). If I can find some 2 liter heads, I'm planning on doing some good oval springs with titanium retainers, and convert over to the Japanese market shimless buckets. Toss in some lumpy as hell cams, huge injectors (440cc is what I have, 950 to 1,200cc is what I'm looking at), a new computer, a larger turbo, a dyno tune, and voila, I now have a 2.1 stroker motor.
The alternative to buy a front clip, with a closed deck 2 liter (US gets an open deck), that has AVCS (iVTEC but... Fully variable cam control for both intake and exhaust), a twinscroll turbo, and an 8,000 RPM rev limit (US gets 6,800 RPM, mine is currently set to 7,200). Bonus from this route is it would include a 6 speed (currently running a 5 speed), R180 rear diff (R160 is what we got here... R180 has a bigger ring and pinion), axles, and 4/2pot Brembo disc brakes (currently running 2/1pot. Brembos are 12.7", US WRX uses 11.6", I CURRENTLY have 10.6" rotors front and rear on it...) So the JDM front clip would have... Pretty much everything. New engine, transmission, rear diff, axles, hubs brakes. The down side is the wheels. I have the stock 16" wheels on right now with my summer tires, and a set of 15" 1993 Legacy SS wheels with skinny snow tires on them, I'd have to sell my snow tires/wheels, and get either a different set of 16" wheels (I don't like how they look), or spend $1400 on a set of STi wheels (WRX has a 5x100 bolt patter, 52mm backspacing; 2004 STi was 5X100, 52mm backspacing, STi 2005+ is 5x114 with 53mm backspacing).
An alternative would be to build a 6 cylinder. It's expensive, the ECU is a total bitch, but... They have an extra head bolt per cylinder compared to the 4 cylinders, they sound badass, and the Subaru 6 cylinder engines love to rev (9k rev limit with a turbo the size of my head). Perrin built a 2006 STi for SEMA with a 6 cylinder 3.0 turbo, and at 14 PSI of boost, it was putting 450 AWHP down. That turbo isn't even in it's efficiency range until it's around 30 PSI, they just never put injectors in large enough to handle it. The downside would be the cost. Building an H6 3.0 turbo motor costs about what the front clip costs. Plus, the 5 speed the WRX came with cannot handle that much power. In fact, it can barely handle the original stock power output of 227CHP/215CTQ. 300 at the crank is the upper limit, even with a tiny anemic turbo, I'd be passing that mark easily with a 6 cylinder...
And the last option is to buy a beater until I can get the WRX running in all of it's glory again. There was a ford pickup on CL that I really wish I had jumped on. Had a 351 and a 4 speed in it, $670. Clean title, tags (grandfather laws FTW), but it was only RWD. It had a pretty ugly body on it, but it was just the paint that was ugly, it had very few bumps and dings.
Sadly, it's gone, and everything currently up on CL here either has a salvage title, no title, or the seller wants way more than it's worth. >_<
Oh well. I guess I gotta just keep working and keep my eyes out for jobs...