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Water Proofing Electronics

I use high temp gasket sealer from any auto store on my rx's and on my servo boards. Rtv silicone sealant. Worked for me for years now. I just take it apart and coat anything electrical like the boards with it making sure I can still use the channel and crystal ports. On servos for the gears I stuff with dielectric grease. My thinking is if water can't get to the electronics it can't harm them and I have had great results. For esc's I make sure to just buy a waterproof one and I use sensorless brushless motors. Any brushed motor works in the water by the way. Just water prematurely wears the brushes and if you run in the mud or any small particulates like sand eventually a piece jams one of the brushes stopping you cold. There are prefilters made for that. I haven't had an rx fail yet. One of them had 16+ months of mud and water. I do that to spectrum and reg old generic 27mhz ones. Hope this helps some of you guys asking questions.
 
jammindriver said:
Yeah, still posting questions...I have gone through a bunch of threads...

Am I correct in understanding that BRUSHED motors are not affected by water submersion but BRUSHLESS motors do not mix with water???

I was thinking of a Novak 18.5 systems, but don't want to get that if the motor doesn't play well with water.

Thanks guys!

Oh, and there is so much great info on RCC - these forums are DOPE for an RC junkie! "thumbsup"
Click to expand...
just got back from msd afew weeks ago where i ran my class 1 with 18.5 novak brushless in it and we ran in water 3 to 4 inches deep and its still working just fine
 
i have a esc with a fan on top i'm trying to water proof with ouy disableing fan cooling as i think esc will heat up and burn out with out the fan to cool it. any ideas?
 
What kind of ESC?


I can say that silicon caulking is a bad idea to use as waterproofing. Not because of the silicon, but because of the acetic acid off gassing that occurs during curing. It will deposit onto the electronics and corrode them over time.
 
John Holmes referring to me? Didn't see the quote. I stated in my post I stick to waterproof esc's. Traxxas xl5 and vxl esc's. Also I don't use caulk. Just the automotive rtv silicone high temp gasket maker. $6.99 per 3.5oz. Permatex produces it and it's advertised as ok for sensor contacts use. I should of specified for the other guys on here. Years ago I used to do a lot of automotive work and a lot of the methods and chemicals have wormed into my crawling hobby.
 
To anybody really.

I wonder what the gasket maker off gasses. It seems to be different than the caulk from my smell memory.

I do have some silicon material I have been meaning to try for waterproofing. We generally only use a resin for real waterproofing, as it conducts heat and won't kill components. The silicon would have the advantage of being removable in case of a repair.
 
JohnRobHolmes said:
To anybody really.

I wonder what the gasket maker off gasses. It seems to be different than the caulk from my smell memory.

I do have some silicon material I have been meaning to try for waterproofing. We generally only use a resin for real waterproofing, as it conducts heat and won't kill components. The silicon would have the advantage of being removable in case of a repair.
Click to expand...

Can a layperson purchase that resin? Would you just dip the entire component?
 
You could dip, but it is so thin that there could be bare spots unless you waited a few minutes for the cure to start before dipping. You will need a mold to properly use a potting resin. It can be done in a taped up plastic case in many instances since you won't care about reusing the mold. If you are to buy it you have to get 1/2 gallon sizes, and most sellers want a business license. I may be able to sell small quantities of it, but first I will have to test a 11cc batch to see if it will cure properly.
 
JohnRobHolmes said:
You could dip, but it is so thin that there could be bare spots unless you waited a few minutes for the cure to start before dipping. You will need a mold to properly use a potting resin. It can be done in a taped up plastic case in many instances since you won't care about reusing the mold. If you are to buy it you have to get 1/2 gallon sizes, and most sellers want a business license. I may be able to sell small quantities of it, but first I will have to test a 11cc batch to see if it will cure properly.
Click to expand...

No, no, thats ok...I thought maybe this was something I'd get at Home Depot. My esc is supposedly water resistant and I think with few dabs of liquid tape I should be good. Question though, if I do use the liquid tape on my receiver board, do I have to seal up the unused channel port prongs?
 
it would be hard to water proof the Novak Goat coz its get hot sometimes and its big any suggestions on how to do it?
 
If you want to be sure you can tear your electronics apart and recoat them with conformal coating, then coat the entire thing with liquid electrical tape. that is what I do. They all run as deep as the radio will recieve.(depending on the mineral content of the water).

Or there is the for sure method that John described above. definitely the way to be for sure though you cant send it in for repair.

As you all have seen I have no issues submerging my junk(MSD TTC 1st place)
 
SDS Customz said:
If you want to be sure you can tear your electronics apart and recoat them with conformal coating, then coat the entire thing with liquid electrical tape. that is what I do. They all run as deep as the radio will recieve.(depending on the mineral content of the water).

Or there is the for sure method that John described above. definitely the way to be for sure though you cant send it in for repair.

As you all have seen I have no issues submerging my junk(MSD TTC 1st place)
Click to expand...

What it conformal coating and where do I get it?
 
So I have read this thread... ALL of it. General consensus is that the BEST way to waterproof any of the electronics is to cover both sides of the board with liquid electrical tape. Then, pack the entire case with dielectric grease. Brushed motors are fine underwater, but sometimes they get grit or mud in them and die, brushed motors are relatively cheap and I wouldn't dunk a expensive one so thats not a big deal. That sound about right?
 
TurboShadow said:
So I have read this thread... ALL of it. General consensus is that the BEST way to waterproof any of the electronics is to cover both sides of the board with liquid electrical tape. Then, pack the entire case with dielectric grease. Brushed motors are fine underwater, but sometimes they get grit or mud in them and die, brushed motors are relatively cheap and I wouldn't dunk a expensive one so thats not a big deal. That sound about right?
Click to expand...

That's about it.
 
2-part Epoxy

Does anybody know if 2-part epoxy will work in coating electronics boards? What about fiberglass resin that you get in an auto parts store?
 
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