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Was bit by the Micro Bug... SCX24 Added to the Stable

Check out my scx 24 c10

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So, it seems as though I suffered the dreaded ESC giving up the ghost, so I thought...

While wanting to tinker late last night, I decides to plug an RGT #13625 0.50 motor in my SCX24's stock Receiver/ESC. Low and behold, it ran. It appears the pls motor was just locked up and trash... So, I commenced the heart transplant and it ran with the controls reversed. I believe I read somewhere that you had to swap the wires around, so I quickly re-pinned the connector. She runs pretty decent.

In getting the motor to fit, I notched the frame. I guess I was pretty tired when I did it, because I feel like I really trashed the frame rail in my efforts. :oops:

This brings me to my question of replacement frames and or chassis styles. I plan to use a Carisma F-150 body and am looking at options for a decent chassis design that will allow me to shorten the wheelbase just a little.

Let me know what you guys gave used with success. "thumbsup"

My little frame mistake… Looks like I chewed on it :lmao:
I could likely just take that frame rail off and clean it up with a file and it would be fine, but it looks like it definitely effected the actual integrity, because the tail ends on the two frame rails no longer line up.
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The F150 body just set on there, after I put the stock wheels and tires back on.
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Okay, time to lay it all out there now :ror:

My little crawler is going to get some serious surgery.

New Chassis: Furitek CF Rails
Motor: Surpass 2204 1400kv
ESC: Furitek Tegu w/ Bluetooth
Wheels: Treal 1.0 Beadlocks
Tires: 1.0 RC4WD Rock Creepers
Links: Used High Clearance Brass from eBay

Body: Carisma 1/24 F-150 (for starters)
Something different and challenging will be coming in the future…

Thanks for all the help and insight from folks on this site, this should turn into a fun little money pit :lmao:
 
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Don't forget to post pics as you progress.

Sucky internet at the house, take twelve…:lmao:

Vince, thank you man, everything looks awesome, I can’t wait to run it!!!!

Today’s progress on the SCX24 (amongst the other 5 builds):
Built the front and rear axles
Mounted up the tires and wheels
Looked in awe of the fun to come!!!

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Thanks for sharing - was actively searching for a body for my SMT24 build today and had no idea Carisma sold those incredibly badass bodies individually (and so incredibly CHEAPLY!!!) Just ordered one. Its like a bite size version of my TRX-4 bronco!
 
Thanks for sharing - was actively searching for a body for my SMT24 build today and had no idea Carisma sold those incredibly badass bodies individually (and so incredibly CHEAPLY!!!) Just ordered one. Its like a bite size version of my TRX-4 bronco!

I was super surprised that they were so inexpensive as well. It looks good on the SCX24, the wheelbase is a little shorter, but some shorter links would likely solve the issue, or just trimming the body a little would also work.
 
So, I picked up a set of brass 4-link links in the Deadbolt configuration, just to get the weight forward a little more.
The install went ok, but I should have bought more pivot balls at the same time, lesson learned…

I am also installing my 3D printed 4-link emaxx servo mount, but am not sure how to install the upper links to the mount. I likely just bought the wrong combination of parts, but any insight would be appreciated.

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More on this Saga... :lmao:

The brass links I bought, do not work with the 3D printed EMAX mount I purchased. This was my own doing, not reading the small print, or fully understanding the description when I purchased it. None the less, I'll be over that hurdle in a short time.

One thing I did notice, is that the 3D printed ends on the links bind in the mounting pockets on the on the skid, as well as the axle, only up front though.
I am assuming that this is due to the shorter Deadbolt style of link, which puts a more sever angle on the link end at the mounting pocket.

I'll post more, as I come up with resolutions.
 
I have the same chassis but in red. Overall I love it but my komodo motor at full droop hits on bell housing on drive shaft. Not that big a deal as this really happens but still bugs me. Running 4 link c10 front on mofo rc servo mount. I'm thinking if I run c10 rear up front it will change the angle enough that it won't hit. Not sure I want to have that big a stretch and will also put me very outside wheel wells on f150 body. Love the angle I have my front shocks but might just move more vertical which will limit the angle at full compression to keep it from hitting or leave it where it's at and have a standoff between the frame to stop the servo from going any further up .... which will also keep it from hitting. Anyways keep the updates coming!
 
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