Vaterra Ascender or Axial SCX10?

[goldcrow]

Here's a front view. I don't see any obstruction with the setup. What I noticed when manually turning the servo without power, it can do a full left same as the right. Would a simple realignment of the servo arm to be centered fix this? Oh and do I have to tighten the links a bit or are they really supposed to be loose?

 

[Johnnysplits]

Do you have the servo endpoints setup correctly? They should be set so when at full lock, the arms almost touch the stops. And is that servo horn seated all the way? Seems like a lot of spline in showing.

 

[goldcrow]

I haven't touched anything out of the box really. Will try the adjustments tomorrow. Regarding the servo endpoints, how do I do this correctly? On the tx, steering is set at the maximum allowable already.

 

[Johnnysplits]

You have a RTR right? If so, I'm not sure if it has epa. If it doesn't, then you can possibly play with servo horn positioning to get some more throw, or change the servo horn for one that has multiple holes to attach the steering link to.

 

[goldcrow]

Here's the right side steering, the knuckle is right in line with the stopper. I'm not sure if I'm getting the terms correctly but the stopper is that plastic sticking out on the top part of the C-hub right?

This is the left side. There's a noticeable space between the end of the knuckle and stopper where the steering can still go further. I have yet to disassemble the servo horn and links. So safe to say it's not the stoppers holding it back?

Btw, the servo is a spektrum S605.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

There's a lot of hype surrounding Spektrum, but they're problematic and can be unreliable. It's okay for a stock RtR system like most low budget RtR gear, when you're ready to upgrade look to Futaba, Airtronics or Hitec. All three have affordable, good quality systems that are dependable as well as high-end, feature packed systems.

Ah. Another person spouting bullshit about Spektrum. Spektrums are not problematic or unreliable and they make the best RTR radios. Please don't tell lies to newbies.

I've been racing and bashing with my Spektrum system for years and I've never had a single glitch. The steering spring broke, but I fixed it with a better spring and I've never had problems since.

Sure Airtronics and Futaba are great, but their receivers are so expensive and that is an issue if you own more than one RC.

I have an SCX10 (as well as many other crawlers) and I just got finished building the Ascender. I haven't had a chance to run the Ascender yet except for a few pillow crawls in the house. The Ascender is what the SCX10 should have been. It's a much better product. Higher quality materials, a better design, and in the end you have a much sturdier and seemingly much more capable platform. The only issue I've found so far is that the manual sucks and has a bunch of errors in it. This won't be an issue if you buy the RTR. And the Ascender has a torque twist issue that needs to be dealt with. I'm not sure how I'm going to fix it yet.

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

Ah. Another person spouting bullshit about Spektrum. Spektrums are not problematic or unreliable and they make the best RTR radios. Please don't tell lies to newbies.

For once in my life I'm going to defend Eric.

You're right about them being the best rtr radio, but they are far from the best otherwise, and are oddly more susceptible to interference than any other digital radio I've ever used.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

For once in my life I'm going to defend Eric.

You're right about them being the best rtr radio, but they are far from the best otherwise, and are oddly more susceptible to interference than any other digital radio I've ever used.

Maybe more susceptible in theory, but theory is different than reality.

The current Spektrum surface radios aren't the same as the first gen Spektrum radios that were more problematic when it was just DSM. DSM has come and gone and DSM2 and DSMR are the current technologies with each iteration being more reliable.

Like I said, I've never had a single glitch with mine while bashing, crawling or racing and most Spektrum users would agree.

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

Maybe more susceptible in theory, but theory is different than reality.

I wasn't theoretically using mine...

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I wasn't theoretically using mine...

OK then you're in the minority that experienced a glitch. Doesn't change what I said.

 

[Duuuuuuuude]

OK then you're in the minority that experienced a glitch. Doesn't change what I said.

Myself, and a few others I've raced/crawled with. Not too many of them run Spektrum any more.

Does it change the fact that you called Eric a liar? Yes it does.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Myself, and a few others I've raced/crawled with. Not too many of them run Spektrum any more.

Does it change the fact that you called Eric a liar? Yes it does.

And I've never seen a single Spektrum glitch at any time. I don't have an affinity to Spektrum. I own other brands including cheapo radios. I'm just stating my experiences.

Problematic and unreliable indicated, to me, that he was saying most Spektrum radios have issues and that's simply not true. They wouldn't still be in business if that was the case.

 

[Johnnysplits]

This is the left side. There's a noticeable space between the end of the knuckle and stopper where the steering can still go further. I have yet to disassemble the servo horn and links. So safe to say it's not the stoppers holding it back?

You should get more left steering...it should be able to touch that stop.

 

[new2rocks]

What I noticed when manually turning the servo without power, it can do a full left same as the right. Would a simple realignment of the servo arm to be centered fix this?

Since the wheels travel to full lock without power, that would seem to rule out a physical obstruction. Adjusting the servo horn would be worth a try. If your trim is set to the left, center it and reinstall the horn so that the wheels are pointed straight (or as close to straight as you can). If your trim is already centered, try rotating the horn by a tooth or two in the clockwise direction and retrimming to see if that helps. If that still doesn't work, it's probably an issue with the servo and worth contacting Horizon.

Oh and do I have to tighten the links a bit or are they really supposed to be loose?

Good catch. The links shouldn't be loose. Definitely tighten them and check for other loose screws while you're at it. "thumbsup"

 

[SteveC6R]

While I believe you've made your choice here, I'll be the oddball and vote SCX. I had an Ascender for about two months, sold it and bought a SCX and won't look back. While I will agree that it's better made and has more scale appearance out of the box it does have some flaws IMO. I had a Roc412 in mine and wheel speed was horrible for me, I attribute that to the small diff gears and the low gearing of the tranny. The biggest gripe I had was the fact I went through 4 sets of CVDs, what good is the steering radius if the CVDs break because they aren't strong enough? And while the Blazer body is cool looking it's big and bulky which kills it in the comp scene.

And lastly and this is really directed at all the manufactures, there's nothing "scale" about a rig without an interior. At least Axial got that part partially right. The Ascender, Blazer and Bronco, have an awesome body with no interior, not very scale IMO. Same goes for the Komodo, looks cool but lacks an interior. If RC4WD can make full metal kits with hard bodies and interiors for a decent price I don't think it would be too hard for the others to do so with their plastic kits.

Sorry for the somewhat off topic rant.

 

[goldcrow]

Since the wheels travel to full lock without power, that would seem to rule out a physical obstruction. Adjusting the servo horn would be worth a try. If your trim is set to the left, center it and reinstall the horn so that the wheels are pointed straight (or as close to straight as you can). If your trim is already centered, try rotating the horn by a tooth or two in the clockwise direction and retrimming to see if that helps. If that still doesn't work, it's probably an issue with the servo and worth contacting Horizon.




Good catch. The links shouldn't be loose. Definitely tighten them and check for other loose screws while you're at it. "thumbsup"

Yes, when my LHS guy opened the box, we had to adjust the st. trim almost 90 degrees to the left. I figured just twisting the servo horn to center without power will align it. Now it seems that with the trim adjustment, we ate into some of the steering angle needed to make a full left.

Will update you guys once I do some more tinkering, will also retighten the steering links, might be able to solve some of the front tire wobble as well.

 

[Johnnysplits]

While I believe you've made your choice here, I'll be the oddball and vote SCX. I had an Ascender for about two months, sold it and bought a SCX and won't look back. While I will agree that it's better made and has more scale appearance out of the box it does have some flaws IMO. I had a Roc412 in mine and wheel speed was horrible for me, I attribute that to the small diff gears and the low gearing of the tranny. The biggest gripe I had was the fact I went through 4 sets of CVDs, what good is the steering radius if the CVDs break because they aren't strong enough? And while the Blazer body is cool looking it's big and bulky which kills it in the comp scene.

And lastly and this is really directed at all the manufactures, there's nothing "scale" about a rig without an interior. At least Axial got that part partially right. The Ascender, Blazer and Bronco, have an awesome body with no interior, not very scale IMO. Same goes for the Komodo, looks cool but lacks an interior. If RC4WD can make full metal kits with hard bodies and interiors for a decent price I don't think it would be too hard for the others to do so with their plastic kits.

Sorry for the somewhat off topic rant.

I for one, wouldn't want an interior. I run to compete, not worry about seeing seats and a driver through windows. That crap adds weight and adds it way too high. Yes, the blazer body is the shittiest part of the ascender as it does kill it for comping. The cvd's...I haven't broke one yet, but then again I've only run one comp with it. I'm sure someone is making a beefier set by now. And what was the Kv and voltage you had in it that didn't provide enough wheel speed?

 

[new2rocks]

Yes, when my LHS guy opened the box, we had to adjust the st. trim almost 90 degrees to the left. I figured just twisting the servo horn to center without power will align it. Now it seems that with the trim adjustment, we ate into some of the steering angle needed to make a full left.

There's your problem. Small trim adjustments are fine, but if it needed that much trim, much better to rotate the horn. Let us know if that fixes it.

Steve raises some good points, but I still think the Ascender is an excellent choice. It would be nice to have a good off-the-shelf interior option, but nothing to stop someone from tossing a lexan body with half interior or hardbody with full interior on an Ascender (esp with the GCM forward motor mount conversion). I'm hoping someone will come out with a good aftermarket full interior before I finish some other projects and make one from scratch. I do standing wheelies with a 35T on 3S using the 2-speed and no TT twist with the Dinky cantilevers, so no complaints about wheel speed here, lol. I heard a few people have issues with the CVDs a while back, but I haven't had any in mine and don't recall seeing any posts about it recently. Wondering if they maybe had a bad batch? Anyway, mine stays in the fleet. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Yes, when my LHS guy opened the box, we had to adjust the st. trim almost 90 degrees to the left. I figured just twisting the servo horn to center without power will align it. Now it seems that with the trim adjustment, we ate into some of the steering angle needed to make a full left.

Will update you guys once I do some more tinkering, will also retighten the steering links, might be able to solve some of the front tire wobble as well.

My first Ascender RTR steering was fine, my second RTR requires lots of trim to the left also. I'm going to have to pull the servo horn, rotate it one spline to the left and readjust trim to center steering. You need to do the same thing. Not sure why Horizon/Vaterra doesn't check this or have an adjustment jig for when they assemble the RTR.

There's your problem. Small trim adjustments are fine, but if it needed that much trim, much better to rotate the horn. Let us know if that fixes it.

Steve raises some good points, but I still think the Ascender is an excellent choice. It would be nice to have a good off-the-shelf interior option, but nothing to stop someone from tossing a lexan body with half interior or hardbody with full interior on an Ascender (esp with the GCM forward motor mount conversion). I'm hoping someone will come out with a good aftermarket full interior before I finish some other projects and make one from scratch. I do standing wheelies with a 35T on 3S using the 2-speed and no TT twist with the Dinky cantilevers, so no complaints about wheel speed here, lol. I heard a few people have issues with the CVDs a while back, but I haven't had any in mine and don't recall seeing any posts about it recently. Wondering if they maybe had a bad batch? Anyway, mine stays in the fleet. "thumbsup"

X2, would be nice to have nice lexan (light weight and less $) or some good interior kit available. I know there's teh 3d printed interior kit available that I don't remember who makes, but I'm not paying $200 or whatever it is they are asking lol.

 

[goldcrow]

So update guys, disassembled the servo horn and realigned it, only needs around 45 degrees trim adjustment now to center. Steering angle is still biased to the right when tires are on the ground but when lifted, both sides hit the stoppers.
When steered to the left while reversing though, I can get the full steering angle. I couldn't quite get the perfect alignment since I might strip the horn when adjusting. I'm thinking of getting an aluminum horn to replace the stock plastic one. Any thoughts?