Trying to figure out which scale rig to get

[spacephrawg]

All i want it to do is not have that specific plastic-clunking sound. Any other sound, including gear noise or motor arcing is fine by me.

Side note: one of the considerations I was weighing was which rig would look more scale.

So I started a thread elsewhere asking about dropping the suspension on the SCX10 for the purpose of making it look more scale because as I posted above, one guy on here tried it with his SCX10 w/ hilux body. One idea that was suggested was to take the springs out of the shocks all together, or at least cut them down to almost full droop. The result that the guy posted on his short wb rig with a tamiya FJ40 body on it looked every bit as scale as any CC01.

So now I'm thinking maybe if I get a Rastar LR3 body and do something like the following, but with the drooped suspension, all of this indecision may be solved:

http://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=45575


That is unless i have to do major alterations to the linkage to make that work in which case, I would have a whole new can of worms to work out, which is how much to shorten the linkage, rethreading the shortened ends, cutting up the body just right and fashioning realistic icelandic/arctic spec fenders unlike what hte guy in the thread i just posted did, and not sure what else.

What do you advise?

Chances are the lowered rig would still be more capable than the CC01 but i care more about looks.

Oh to be able to afford both rigs at once!

 

[Grumpster1980]

All i want it to do is not have that specific plastic-clunking sound. Any other sound, including gear noise or motor arcing is fine by me.

My CC-01 has no rattle sound and by the response of other people they do not have this problem as well. The video you showed had a custom body on it that is not sold with the kit. Who knows how he instaled it and that is why his rattled.

Here is a video of my CC-01 with its original Jeep Wrangler body on it and it's new Unimog Body on it and the only sound you hear is the wind, Motor, Gears, and maybe a stray bird.



CC-01 Jeep Wrangler (styrene hard body)
http://www.vimeo.com/7505512

CC-01 Jeep with new Unimog (lexan Body )
http://www.vimeo.com/9279354


The SCX10 can look scale out of the box but most people but a custom body on it to make it look more scale, then add LED lights and scale goodies.

On my SCX10 I put the Chevy Blazer CGR Pro-Line body and went from there. I did have to make longer rear links and if you wanted to lower your rig then you would have to moddify your body and suspension.

 

[spacephrawg]

My CC-01 has no rattle sound and by the response of other people they do not have this problem as well. The video you showed had a custom body on it that is not sold with the kit. Who knows how he instaled it and that is why his rattled.

Here is a video of my CC-01 with its original Jeep Wrangler body on it and it's new Unimog Body on it and the only sound you hear is the wind, Motor, Gears, and maybe a stray bird.



CC-01 Jeep Wrangler (styrene hard body)
http://www.vimeo.com/7505512

CC-01 Jeep with new Unimog (lexan Body )
http://www.vimeo.com/9279354


The SCX10 can look scale out of the box but most people but a custom body on it to make it look more scale, then add LED lights and scale goodies.

On my SCX10 I put the Chevy Blazer CGR Pro-Line body and went from there. I did have to make longer rear links and if you wanted to lower your rig then you would have to moddify your body and suspension.

Your rigs look badass!

I think I am qualified to cut up a body. Never done it with the thread technique but I think i can manage it. Well, eventually, when i have the money, space and time.

How would I make new links and more importantly, how would i determin how long or short to make them? It all sounds like a big headache to me. If there were some ready-made links I could get instead that would be great. Threading the newly cut ends sounds like metal-shop stuff and I am neither qualified nor set up to do anything of the sort.

Given that the stock link length on an SCX10 is what it is and as such, can accommodate full shock compression, if i wanted to make hte shocks full or most-of-the-way droop, why would i need differerent links?

I suppose its different with shorter shocks, yes? No?

Thanks again!

 

[fixed13]

Sounds to me that you want a rtr rig with perfect scale looks and driving style. Such a rig does not exist, you will need to do work to any rig you buy to make it what you whant. I suggest you do some more looking around this great site and Scale4x4 so you can learn some things you will need to know to do the work. Links are easily made with allthread and tube or delrin drilled and threaded. All the things (except delrin) are easily bought at the LHS or hardware store. Delrin can be bought at several online sellers such as McMaster-Carr. All the work can be done with a few simple tools bought at the same places listed above. Good luck.

 

[spacephrawg]

Sounds to me that you want a rtr rig with perfect scale looks and driving style. Such a rig does not exist, you will need to do work to any rig you buy to make it what you whant. I suggest you do some more looking around this great site and Scale4x4 so you can learn some things you will need to know to do the work. Links are easily made with allthread and tube or delrin drilled and threaded. All the things (except delrin) are easily bought at the LHS or hardware store. Delrin can be bought at several online sellers such as McMaster-Carr. All the work can be done with a few simple tools bought at the same places listed above. Good luck.

Close: I was hoping for something that looks as scale as an RC4wd chassis but didn't cost as much, and didn't require as much improvement right out of the box, as a CC01.

Its not so much that I want a perfect rig right out of the box, so much as I'm trying to determine the best compromise to achieve what i want.

I read in some other thread possibly elsewhere about how the CC01 requires all sorts of fiddly upgrades to run properly; shimming joints, cutting of chassis bits, other such things.

Meanwhile I have heard many people talk about how they have been able to run their CC01's almost stock, except for steering mods, without any troubles. So I am confused on that one.

Meanwhile as I may have mentioned, I have a friend with a new TR that he's been running stock for a while now and hasn't needed to do very much to it, though he anticipates doing so whenever the links break.

Thank you for the guidance on the rod-threading stuff.

The part I still don't get is re: what length to make the links. I am struggling to conceive of a way that that would be accomplished. I don't know trig and I don't know how else i would figure this stuff out and I expect the learning curve is unforgiving considering that if I get a length wrong or worse, really wrong, that i'd have to buy even more raw materials and start all over, with a lighter wallet. is that how it is?

 

[Grumpster1980]

Your rigs look badass!

I think I am qualified to cut up a body. Never done it with the thread technique but I think i can manage it. Well, eventually, when i have the money, space and time.

How would I make new links and more importantly, how would i determin how long or short to make them? It all sounds like a big headache to me. If there were some ready-made links I could get instead that would be great. Threading the newly cut ends sounds like metal-shop stuff and I am neither qualified nor set up to do anything of the sort.

Given that the stock link length on an SCX10 is what it is and as such, can accommodate full shock compression, if i wanted to make hte shocks full or most-of-the-way droop, why would i need differerent links?

I suppose its different with shorter shocks, yes? No?

Thanks again!

Thanks :mrgreen: It's not as hard as you think. A lot of guys use threaded rod as their links and they are easy to cut (dremel tool) then use axial or traxxas rod ends. most bodies have the wheel base listed and then you measure between the lugs of your tires to get the wheel base. My SCX10 Blazer body has a wheel base of 12.5" and Axial's new honcho links will fit that so you can buy these links. If you picked a different body then your on your own.

 

[spacephrawg]

Thanks :mrgreen: It's not as hard as you think. A lot of guys use threaded rod as their links and they are easy to cut (dremel tool) then use axial or traxxas rod ends. most bodies have the wheel base listed and then you measure between the lugs of your tires to get the wheel base. My SCX10 Blazer body has a wheel base of 12.5" and Axial's new honcho links will fit that so you can buy these links. If you picked a different body then your on your own.

I was thinking of using hard plastic bodies. I have been told that the Hummer HX body has a 10.5 wb, the Rastar one would fit the stock SCX10 quite well, as would the tamiya f350 and hilux - still not sure what the tundra is.

Thing is its one thing to know the wb, but its another to know how long to make the links. I just don't understand.

 

[fixed13]

Lets see if I can make this make sense. If you are starting with a stock CC-01 (just for a truck to use, others will be the same), you will know what the stock wheelbase is by measuring from nut to nut on the wheels. So in my case that would be 9 5/8 inches. If the body you want to use is 10 5/8 inches you have a 1 inch diference. For the CC-01 you would only stretch the rear links 'cause the front is IFS so you need to add an inch to the rear links. Measure your stock link length from eye to eye to get a starting point. Then measure the rod end you will be using, from eye to threaded end. For the Traxxas ones I use that would be 9/16 of an inch. Double that number 'cause you have two ends per link. Subtract the rod end total from the total link length that you want to get just the rod length needed.

Hope this makes sense to you. "thumbsup"

 

[spacephrawg]

So far, so good. Thanks bro! Not much I can do with the info now, since i don't have the cash to get the kit yet, but I'm saving this thread in my favorites.

I was just looking at a Honcho build thread a minute ago, with photos from every stage of construction and somehow got intimidated by it.

If one were to look through my youtube RC cars and trucks playllst, its like an archeological record of my shifting interest between the CC01 and the SCX10 over the past month. It is awfully difficult to decide.

The fact that the CC01 needs improvements right out of the box is a bit of a downer. Then again, building an SCX10 seems a bit over my head right now, but maybe thats just because i'm not a morning person. I hate mornings :mrgreen:

How would I lift the front suspension? That seems more tricky. Would it compromise the strength of it?

 

[Grumpster1980]

So far, so good. Thanks bro! Not much I can do with the info now, since i don't have the cash to get the kit yet, but I'm saving this thread in my favorites.

I was just looking at a Honcho build thread a minute ago, with photos from every stage of construction and somehow got intimidated by it.

If one were to look through my youtube RC cars and trucks playllst, its like an archeological record of my shifting interest between the CC01 and the SCX10 over the past month. It is awfully difficult to decide.

The fact that the CC01 needs improvements right out of the box is a bit of a downer. Then again, building an SCX10 seems a bit over my head right now, but maybe thats just because i'm not a morning person. I hate mornings :mrgreen:

How would I lift the front suspension? That seems more tricky. Would it compromise the strength of it?

Building a kit is easy. Just take your time and follow the directions. If you get stuck or frustrated it's time to take a days break and come back to it.

There is a guy selling shock mounts (Toyofast) that will life both fron and rear suspension and no it will not weaken the truck.

 

[fixed13]

So far, so good. Thanks bro! Not much I can do with the info now, since i don't have the cash to get the kit yet, but I'm saving this thread in my favorites.

I was just looking at a Honcho build thread a minute ago, with photos from every stage of construction and somehow got intimidated by it.

If one were to look through my youtube RC cars and trucks playllst, its like an archeological record of my shifting interest between the CC01 and the SCX10 over the past month. It is awfully difficult to decide.

The fact that the CC01 needs improvements right out of the box is a bit of a downer. Then again, building an SCX10 seems a bit over my head right now, but maybe thats just because i'm not a morning person. I hate mornings :mrgreen:

How would I lift the front suspension? That seems more tricky. Would it compromise the strength of it?

As to if the SCX-10 is over your head or not will be something you need to decide. What is your RC experience level and how old are you? What other mechanical things have you done and/or been interested in? Do you build or repair other mechanical things? How well do you follow directions? These are just some of the questions you need to ask yourself. If you are brand new to RC and feel that you don't have much mechanical ability you may be better off with the new SCX-10 TR, the TR stands for trail ready so it should be ready to run. If you want to try a kit the CC-01 would be the easyest kit to try. The other thing about the CC-01 is that yes it does need improvements out of the box but they are not hard to do for the most part and once you have built the kit you should know how the upgrades go in. Hope this info helps. Just my thoughts.

 

[Positronic]

Hey again phrawg, Im scoping around here, got a hardbody wrangler here and wondering what to do with it.

buy a rc4wd jeep edition trailfinder (expensive but leaf springs are cool)

scratch build another one like my FJ (I could but I'd prefer something with skinnier axles for my jeep)

buy a cc01 kit (landcruiser or wrangler, doesnt matter I guess since i Have a body already)

leaning towards the cc01 as I havnt built a tamiya since I was a kid. I think you should get a cc01, scale seems to be your priority and as far as I can figure from having a comp crawler to a scaler is that the fun is in driving your rig, knowing it's limits and picking a line to suit your truck and accomplishing it.

The most capable crawler isn't automatically the the most fun to drive.

 

[spacephrawg]

Hey again phrawg, Im scoping around here, got a hardbody wrangler here and wondering what to do with it.

buy a rc4wd jeep edition trailfinder (expensive but leaf springs are cool)

scratch build another one like my FJ (I could but I'd prefer something with skinnier axles for my jeep)

buy a cc01 kit (landcruiser or wrangler, doesnt matter I guess since i Have a body already)

leaning towards the cc01 as I havnt built a tamiya since I was a kid. I think you should get a cc01, scale seems to be your priority and as far as I can figure from having a comp crawler to a scaler is that the fun is in driving your rig, knowing it's limits and picking a line to suit your truck and accomplishing it.

The most capable crawler isn't automatically the the most fun to drive.

Another great recommendation.

Ok so let me see if I get this game plan straight:

So lets say I get a CC01; I lengthen the wb to 10.5 and slap a Hummer HX body on it. What else needs doing?

Waterproof servo and crawler ESC and battery, and i'm good to go, yes?

Maybe eventually I'd get a 55t or above motor, and is it possible to lift the front suspension just a little so that wheel rub isn't so much of an issue?

Other than that, i'm good to go yes? Which would cost more? modding the CC01 to the above specs or modding an SCX10 to have lower suspension and different links, same motor and electronics upgrades applying?



Random asside: just what sort of chassis does the tamiya hummer use? I know its all independent suspension but does anything else use it? I know its 1/12th scale but how does it compare to the CC01?

 

[alpinehyperite]

if u get a cc-01 kit, the easiest and best mod you can do is a new 4-link in the rear. i used axial lower links, and just drilled new mounting holes in the side of the tub after measuring with the stock ones.

Other than that its stock.

My buddy's cc-01 and my scx-10 with f-350 hard body from tamiya

 

[spacephrawg]

if u get a cc-01 kit, the easiest and best mod you can do is a new 4-link in the rear. i used axial lower links, and just drilled new mounting holes in the side of the tub after measuring with the stock ones.

Other than that its stock.

My buddy's cc-01 and my scx-10 with f-350 hard body from tamiya

Thanks for that! What is the part number for those axial lower links? Also did you make any other alterations?

Btw those tires aren't stock - how did you accommodate them?

 

[alpinehyperite]

Im sorry the blue rig is mine, and it is using the stock tires from the high-lift kit. The black rig is my buddys and they are the RC4wd Mud Slingers in 1.9, which fit with not mods. Only other thing i did was shave the front knuckles, and cut the front end, where it was all blocky, downward at an angle for clearance.

 

[Positronic]

^the link mod looks easy to do and much better than the stockies

I must say that black fj looks pretty bad ass.

 

[alpinehyperite]

Very easy to do. And 100000x better than stockies. Its the first scaler that i have Modified at all.

 

[K.O.M.]

A little late to this thread, but I was also considering the CC01 and SCX10. After driving both, I bought the SCX10 TR. The quality of both kits is very good, but the SCX10 is just a cut above the CC01 in terms of performance. While the Tamiya may have nicer bodies and more scale dimensions, I would argue that the SCX10 moves through obstacles a lot better and is more scale in that respect. As for the plastic clunk, I think that might be the body rattling on the body posts...I solved that problem for my kit by adding 2mm foam rubber donuts under the body mounting holes.