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Trent Fab Ultra 4 / KOH buggy

Well I didn't take a lot of build photos due to being in a rush to get it completed enough for a comp this coming weekend and I have another Ultra 4 chassis to build yet for another RCC member / friend soon. Anyway here are some interior build pics. I made the gps and dash gauges to have back lighting with some LED's.











My craftsmanship could've been better but with being in a rush I'll just come back to it later to polish it up.
 
Got my RC4WD shocks in and mounted and figured out how to keep the lower links from twisting. Basically I did like the 1:1 and only have a ball end on one end of the link and have a solid fixed mounting point on the other end which keeps the link from twisting. I got most of the scale details done on the rear and made some temporary aluminum body panels for the comp that will get zip tied down after I clean them up a bit and because I won't get the m2 tap I need till after the comp these will have to do for now.
















And this is a Pro Line nitrous tank I made into a Power Tank which may go on this rig or my 1.9 Jeep , not sure yet haven't made up my mind yet.

 
You could also put a kink in the lower arm and mount the shock just below the center line. Keeps the rotation under control and doesn't limit flex. "thumbsup"

TrailingArmAssemblyMRK2.jpg


Truck looks really good, definitely one of the more accurate examples.
 
I heard how keeping the shocks mounted below the centerline of the lower link keeps from the twist but I wanted to keep it looking more like the 1:1 and after really looking at the 1:1 you can see how the lower link mounted to the skid plate doesn't have a ball end on it so I copied that and it works great. But after playing around with some parts and some ideas I had i'll make some new ones a bit better using 1/4 tube brazed on the end where it mounts to the skid with brass bushings from RC4WD steering knuckles inserted for wearing and it fits perfectly too. Plus i'll try to make them look a bit closer to the 1:1 than I currently have.

 
You could also put a kink in the lower arm and mount the shock just below the center line. Keeps the rotation under control and doesn't limit flex. "thumbsup"

TrailingArmAssemblyMRK2.jpg


Truck looks really good, definitely one of the more accurate examples.

Thanks for the praise ! As you can see from my previous post I think I got it worked out ok, it even flex's good without binding.
 
Well I thought I'd take my rig and put it through its paces in a class 3 comp at Fall Brawl 2013 presented by The Ohio RC Guru's. With over 77 competitors in the 3 classes and only 6 judges ( including myself ) it began to get late and dark fast. So while waiting in line for my run I decided to play around on the obstacle course that was set up, which was a big mound of dirt and rock next to where I was in line and with no more test running on this rig other than flat running in grass on my property I wanted to test it out before my run. I started out testing it's low speed crawling ability, which went fine, then....I got carried away , with some high speed launching and jumping and snapped the long side cvd in the front axle, crap... no biggie... I got a spare ! So what do I do , let's air this thing out and test some landings ! Snap !!! Again same one ! So needlessto say after my long eexasperated story, I need to do away with the Top Cad cvd's and swap over to the Vanquish ones.

Here are some pics from the comp and some of mine sitting, which is what it did 90Âş of the day ! And of the axles I broke too!






My class 2 blue jeep jk and class 3 ultra 4 rig











 
I'm not going to dog you on the top cad...the evidence speaks for itself. Vanquish is Vanquish for a reason. If there's one thing I've learned in my life, it's when you try to save a few bucks...you end up spending twice as much. When you have the option of saving for another month on top shelf parts...do it.

Nick, the rig looks great in the lineup!8)
 
Things sick I like it

I'm not going to dog you on the top cad...the evidence speaks for itself. Vanquish is Vanquish for a reason. If there's one thing I've learned in my life, it's when you try to save a few bucks...you end up spending twice as much. When you have the option of saving for another month on top shelf parts...do it.

Nick, the rig looks great in the lineup!8)

Thanks kakachille ! Thanks again Greg ! I told my self I wouldn't use the Top Cad cvd's again after having issues with them on my southern buggy but being low on funds at the time I just need to get it ready for the comp and getting 2 sets for around $30 was the cheapest way and I will be getting the VP cvd's soon.

Anyway , the next pic's you'll be seeing of this rig it will have the finalized body panels on it all painted up and bolted on to the chassis. Well I got a few pic's some people took of my class 2 jeep at the comp.





 
Got 90% of the beauty work completed , still need to do the numbers on the side , add the hood scoop, put 1'' Vanquish Rigid light bar in the front and get the HeyOk KOH rear light kit.



















 
Looking good . How does it perform ?? . Looks like the one to one great job ."thumbsup"

Thanks Rodamis , it handles ok for what it is. It is weighing in at 10 lbs and drives a bit top heavy but I think after I put Crawler Innovation foams in the tires, add rear sway bar, replace the shocks with red velvet shocks from Super Shafty, get Hitec steering servo, Castle bec, Tekin Roc 412 and Castle MMP esc .... it should be a beast, at least I hope .
 
Thing looks even better now nice work

wow! them scale bolts are awesome!!! panels look great!"thumbsup"

Thanks guys , I probably should've paid someone to make some vinyl for me and would have looked better but I went cheap instead and painted it by hand . And when I decided to go with 1/4" tubing I thought about drilling and tapping m2 holes in it to use the scale bolts instead of brazing nuts on, which I'm happy how it worked out.
 
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