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The story of how Axial ruined my life...

stock motor smoked
stock servo dead
front bumper mounts snapped
multiple screws lost from bottom of c's
stock tamiya battery lead dead

All things i'm soooooo glad broke! Whats the point of having an RC car that you cant work one, modify and upgrade?
 
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No, no offense, it was my attempt at humor, I admit I might have been being an ass. I just don't understand how a whole community can be so "ok" with paying good money for mediocre equipment. As long as people just roll over and like it, the manufactures are just gonna keep boxing up cheaper and cheaper crap. If Ford sold me a truck that burnt up 3 motors in the first 10 days, and also burned up for 50% of the purchasers there'd be riots in Detroit. When you buy an RTR I agree it is supposed to suck, it should be slow, and lack all the cool bits. You should be able to put a pack in it and hand it to your 9yr old nephew and watch him ram the slow ass rtr off your brothers nice wood trim and not break. However the Wraith is not geared or motored to be slow, it has terrible odds of survival OTB, which goes back to my previous post... 27T, 16/87, open frt diff... now it's slow and if the screws don't fall out of the knuckles reasonably durable.

Agree ;-)



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You probably didn't see this... Tanner has physics in a headlock, he
drops 10 stories down 90 feet of orange track and soars 332 feet through the air.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7SjX7A_FR6g" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

Holy cow Batman! Was that a jump!!! Unbelievable, thanks for sharing "thumbsup"


Ok this part is a little offensive, so you must think I go 18mph up my street then crank the wheel all the way and wonder why it rolls over? See you must think I'm some sort of drooling, helmet wearing, birth defect.

Sorry for the misunderstanding, what I wrote was not referred to you, it was just a general consideration after seeing what some newbyes do, WOT full lock steer and rollover :lmao:
And the part about how locked front axles behave at speed is all referred to 1:1 vehicles. ;-)


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I'm pissed that out of the box it eats motors, a little pissed the screws fall out of the axles like it's they're job. And also a little pissed about the "brown outs". The marketing was misleading and the gearing was unbelievable. We have a dated, proven weak locker design that puts form over function and a basic 1/10 scale drivetrain in a RC model that easily weighs 8lbs, which is heavier than most 1/8 scales. The Wraith really needs 1/8th scale diffs, with an open 4 spider as an option. My new problem is it'll break one or more of the 4 little screws that hold the ring gear on (43/13 HD gears, stock case, HD locker, epoxy), then the mesh is jacked and I take it apart and rebuild it. There was nothing left to break so something new and creative popped up. That's why I'm playing with the open... my Scorpion came with spare spider gears how cool is that? I also like the modded stock driveshafts as they break long before the next links in the chain.

Yes, I don't comment on eating motors and browning electronics, just because I swapped them new before the first use, but I would have been really angry if I was a newb without high tech spares to swap in...
And the screw thing, well that had me really think if Axial was serious to go that cheap to include all selftapping screws instead of fine thread bolts on critical areas. Again I swapped most of those screws before using it (I dismantled completely after purchase, and rebuilt to my standards) with metric 3mm bolts, and had no screws falling out the knuckles whatsoever, but that's something that should have been done at the factory. Many people didn't know why those "C" screws keep on loosening and I wrote a thread about it on the italian forum I write usually (scalersandcrawlers)
Another area that's critical for selftapping screws and I suggested to swap for fine thread bolts are the diff bearing caps. Selftapping tend to back and loose themselves, and with the pressure exerted on those caps by the R&P, they tend to loose easily, throwing out the gear mesh and ruining the gears themselves. I think you knew this also, but worth writing again for other readers.
Good catch on the open diff gears for the front, I was not remembering that the RTR Scorpion had it and sure is a direct fit. Worth trying for a fast setup, the steering response will feel improved for sure!

"thumbsup"
 
Unfortunately I'm on of those 'Cant leave it alone' guys. Its awful.

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Overall:
IF YOU WANT A WRAITH GET A KIT AND BUILD IT PROPERLY!
Best upgrade so far was universal joint axles.
If you all want more pictures or to know anything let me know.
Don't get a wraith unless you already have a few RC cars and trucks.

:shock: jk...

Had to reply to this one… :ror:

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I admit I stopped reading at the middle of page 3, and I stopped comprehending after the oiled up ass .gif too :). Anyways the thread title made me curious. And I figured I would share my similar intro into the RC crawler scene and my RTR Axial Wraith experiance. <o:p></o:p>
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For those of you who don't really care about how I got into the hobby and only want to hear my thoughts on the Wraith scroll down to (***Wriath info***) <o:p></o:p>
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I got into the hobby in a similar way. Walked into a powersports dealer to pick up oil for my ATV and my little girl (2yrs old) walked over to the hobby section and was pushing around a HPI Crawler king that was out of the box. Being a gear head I had to check it out. The owner let me try it out, and I was hooked. I bought it that day. Went home and did some research (after I bought the CK). I am a major gear head and I like to mod my toys and be different so I ordered a few bodies and a couple sets of tires and wheels. Looked into motor and esc upgrades, radio etc...<o:p></o:p>
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Long story short im relativley new to RC crawling and I stopped keeping track after I was over $3500 deep since I started August of this year, lol.<o:p></o:p>
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Aug. - Bought the HPI Crawler King RTR<o:p></o:p>
Sept. - Bought a Wriath RTR<o:p></o:p>
Oct. - Bought a Losi Night Crawler<o:p></o:p>
Nov. - Sold Losi Night Crawler, bought new HPI Crawler King for spare parts.<o:p></o:p>
Last week - was introduced to 3S LIPO/Brushless speed, a friend let me try his e-revo and mini e-revo both running lipo brushless setups.<o:p></o:p>
Yesterday - Ordered a Maxamps 3S battery and HPI Savage XS Flux brushless (gonna be my FOFF rig)<o:p></o:p>
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I have not got the Savage XS yet, but as of now I am loving my Crawler King, it's wicked fun and reliable both on (8 cell, XL-5, 21T titan for mudder/basher) and... (with a 55T and stock Wraith esc it is a wicked fun crawler). So much fun I bought a second new CK just for spare axles/parts because I know a light stock drive train will get more power to the ground which equals more fun (breaks easier, but more fun while it lasts). I really enjoy my Crawler King the most, it's tall CG makes it a challenge to crawl, and fun to try and keep it on it's wheels when setup for bashing.<o:p></o:p>
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******************Wraith info**********************<o:p></o:p>
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After watching some Youtube video of a Wraith while sitting in an airport on my way to work, I thought the drag brake esc seemed really cool (I was new to crawling at the time and had never seen a drag brake esc) the snappy power delivery etc... It just looked fun to drive. So I bought a Wraith when I got home two weeks later, I took out the seats, took off the panels, bolted a fullsize 72 chevy body on top, and bolted on my HPI 8 hole beadlocks with HPI rock grabbers. I had a ton of fun with my Wraith in the mostly stock setup. I beat the snot out of it, submerged it, snow bashed it, crawled material piles, sidehilled it, busted through ice, all the pics are shown here in my Wraith thread I started a while back----> <o:p></o:p>
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-wraith/339726-something-different-my-nut-up-wraith.html <o:p></o:p>
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As it got colder and colder I realized I was mainly doing indoor crawing and the Wraith isn't the best crawler, but I liked the snappy power delivery and drag brake. So I put the stock Wraith ESC and radio in my CK... And my Wraith got put on the back burner, I was gonna build a mud bogger or FOFF rig out of it for once it warmed up (now the savage xs will do that so I have new plans for my Wraith). But after seeing it and looking at the Wraith Pic archive I recently I got it out again and put a 27 turn motor with a larger spur gear and switched the battery position up front, drooped, added softer springs, aluminum shock bodies, choppped up the body, HB rover pink dot's etc, and went with the caged look again. It is a much more capable crawler with the droop kit and battery in a forward position, but still not as fun as the Crawler King with the Wraith electronics IMO.<o:p></o:p>
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****************************LONG STORY SHORT********************<o:p></o:p>
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The point of my story is the RTR Wraith in stock form is very reliable if you do as I did…<o:p></o:p>
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- Take it apart and drain water out and “over maintain it” when it gets abused. <o:p></o:p>
- Every time I used it I tightened all the screws before I took it out, and sometimes during if it was being run hard.<o:p></o:p>
- Do not over tighten the tranny screws, I found out the hard way and put extra stress and drag on the tranny which stripped the idler gear. (good thing to replace is the idler gear with a metal one, if you get the kit, only replace the idler, leave the other gears plastic until they break, it will only increase performance until they give out it will be faster)<o:p></o:p>
- DO NOT replace the steering linkage with Aluminum and expect everything else to hold up. It is a perfect mix of give and bend in all stock plastic form. If you start adding aluminum components, replace them all, because once you take out a little bit of the “give” you are going to break stuff. Replace everything or leave it all plastic. If you like the precision and don’t want flex at all, and have a mega high torque strong servo then go all aluminum. If you are using it for fun and bashing, leave it all stock, it will hold up well with all the give and won’t break as easy unless you really hit something (in that case it would probably break even if it was aluminum)

- AND finally this is the most important! -à the above steps are what worked for me, with the exception of a missing o-ring on a front shock my Wraith was built very well in RTR form, you may want to tear down and rebuild prior to bashing it. I am a mechanical engineer, and I have raced ATV motocross for 10 years, I am a major gear head and I work in quality control for a major oil company so I think I am pretty confident in my ideas and opinions of my Wraith and it’s setup. I am not a typical engineer type, and I do have common sence, so these are my opinions take it or leave it, I am not trying to get into a debate, this is a fun hobby for me and I love it, very much addicted. I have not been in the Crawler scene long so I have more to learn, this site is a great place to find info. And that's why I posted such a long reply to help out in anyway I can by sharing my experiance. That’s my two cents and I hope it helps. IMO the Wraith is pretty fun in stock form, but not a great crawler and not the best basher.

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**************Future Wraith plans*****************<o:p></o:p>
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- Clod wheels & tires<o:p></o:p>
- Minor fabrication<o:p></o:p>
- Deep mud/water ability<o:p></o:p>
- I will keep everyone posted "thumbsup" <o:p></o:p>
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The point of my story is the RTR Wraith in stock form is very reliable if you do as I did…<o:p></o:p>
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I think your misunderstanding me here. I didn't have the opportunity to do any of this "maintenance". I literally used it for 10-20 minutes and then it was down for weeks. waiting for parts... then something broke in 5 seconds and it was down for another week waiting for parts.

Now im just waiting for the delivery of my new servo and transmitter/receiver. After I get that in ill start building a crawler... local hobby shop has comp crawler on sale for 169.99 might jump on that or look into building an xr10.
 
I think your misunderstanding me here. I didn't have the opportunity to do any of this "maintenance". I literally used it for 10-20 minutes and then it was down for weeks. waiting for parts... then something broke in 5 seconds and it was down for another week waiting for parts.

Now im just waiting for the delivery of my new servo and transmitter/receiver. After I get that in ill start building a crawler... local hobby shop has comp crawler on sale for 169.99 might jump on that or look into building an xr10.

Gotcha, yeah I kind of got off subject, I just figured I would share my two cents so if someone is on here trying to decide on a Wraith they could here my opinion on it.
 
Gotcha, yeah I kind of got off subject, I just figured I would share my two cents so if someone is on here trying to decide on a Wraith they could here my opinion on it.

Yeah im glade you shared all that info. Its important that people understand what they are getting into. That said my RTR was also just put together very very poorly. I was too exited to use it so I wasn't about to check every nut and bolt. But the first upgrade has to be getting those universals!


Today I tore around with it. Jumping and crawling everything in sight. Ripped the allen that holds the rear right upper shock out of its mounting point. not a big deal. I moved them to another location and will just use a long allen in the future.
 
I should probably just make a build thread.

But I got my new 4 channel transmitter and receiver in and the truck is working great. I got bored this morning and decided it would be fun to try and make the truck four wheel steer. So I ordered a few parts. Im going to try and do it on the cheap. using axial parts mostly.

Also today im going to head to home depot and try and find some materials to change the look of my truck around.

Anyone find any benefit to having metal upper links?
Anyone have a four wheel steer wraith and any tips or tricks?
Ill take some pictures once I get some parts in.
 
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