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The story of how Axial ruined my life...

I've been beating on mine for months and haven't broke anything. I upgraded to ujoint front shafts, swapped the tierod out, but neither from breakage. Mines not a basher really, all I do is crawl with it, so its not fast at all. Its got 100+ hours on it, gets maintained on a regular basis, and with the exception of adding some bling and performance parts, nothing has been replaced from being broken. My sig says newbie, but I've been crawling longer than most, way before it was cool and axial built crawlers, over 25 years of beating original tamiya hilux's and bruisers, clods and custom built stuff. I've broken my fair share of parts over the years, racing and bashing, spending thousands and thousands and thousands a year on this addiction. So, in a way I feel your pain, but in the end, experiance costs money. Just look at all the knowledge youve gained by breaking so much stuff.
 
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Welcome to the club brother, you like so many us others have felt the wraith of Axial :lmao:Once the bleeding stops though it's pretty fun.

There should be an "Unhappy Wraith owners thread" where all the "happy" people aren't welcome, it could be like a support group.

Long term you should consider getting an SCT to go fast and gearing your Wraith down more like a fast crawler. Or keep spares, and take em with ya.

Well even if you had told me twelve times to not turn the wheel to full lock... I would have done it anyways. It was brand new.
The biggest piece of experience I was missing was that if I drive it the way I want too. It will break. I figured I could beat it for a few days at least. I was wrong.
 
Welcome to the club brother, you like so many us others have felt the wraith of Axial :lmao:Once the bleeding stops though it's pretty fun.

There should be an "Unhappy Wraith owners thread" where all the "happy" people aren't welcome, it could be like a support group.

Long term you should consider getting an SCT to go fast and gearing your Wraith down more like a fast crawler. Or keep spares, and take em with ya.


yeah im not sure what im going to do yet. I might buy something else to build as a crawler... and keep the wraith for going on hikes and things of that nature. Just bought two guns so Im going to wait a bit before I buy anything.

I have spent more on other hobbies. Im not really worried about it. I just wish I could have had some fun with it before it broke. At least then I might have known what direction I wanted to go with it. Was looking at building a comp crawler... any thoughts?
 
"thumbsup"Honestly I'm pretty sure it would be less interesting of a hobby if they never broke at all...just think when it brakes you order parts wait a few days and the anticipation hits a climax...then you have to test out the new parts and then you realize you should have opted for that other extra part while you were at it...so now you go back and order some bling then it all starts again...
 
"thumbsup"Honestly I'm pretty sure it would be less interesting of a hobby if they never broke at all...just think when it brakes you order parts wait a few days and the anticipation hits a climax...then you have to test out the new parts and then you realize you should have opted for that other extra part while you were at it...so now you go back and order some bling then it all starts again...

Ah my favorite is when I break something the day after you just placed a huge order to get free freight.

To be honest I don't really enjoy waiting on parts, I'm usually pissed it's broke again and I can't play with it. I have felt that way about somethings, my Hostile rear hubs for my 5T come to mind, but the stock ones were fine, I just wanted billybadass. The Wraith was never like that, it was always broke and waiting on parts. The 5T I was waiting for parts to break so I could put on my new ones. Before that was a Super Nitro Rally, yeah it ended up a $2000.00 toy but it didn't break unless I hit something hard. The Picco pocketbreaker 6000 I had last would wear out ALL the drivetrain parts every 3 months but it didn't just break.

I borrowed a Honcho while I was waiting on my Wraith, beat the **** out of it with the only failure being the BS stock servo. I sold my buddy on a Scorpion RTR, it's his first RC and I think he believes it's a video game with the damage turned off. The upper links have wore and the ball pops around, but still runs like a champ. I just bought an HPI Mini Trophy and have put over 10 3S packs through it with the new Castle SCT system. I'm running 4" tall stadium truck tires and there's been 0 breakage, and I've literally tried to break it. I liked the HPI so much I picked up a used Ten SCTe so I could race, the shit it's survived already at the track is unbelievable. Not to mention my buddy's have a host of SCT's, 1/10, 1/16, 1/8, buggy's, boats, helicopters, etc and they have all been amazed by how much I have to "maintain" my Wraith.

I picked up the Wraith because it's marketed as fun, fast, and durable. I didn't want another money pit like the others. I have to share my toy budget with a race car money pit, a 4wd money pit, guns, computers, a house, GF, dog, work van, the government,..

Now why would somebody think it was a basher? hmmm let us look at a couple of my favorite ads.

RCCA First Look!
www.caraction.com/Media/MediaManager/Article_0.pdf

"RC crawlers are a passionate
bunch, so no doubt this release will get them worked up. Better
yet, with its scale appeal and ability to go fast, this new vehicle,
known as the Wraith, will most likely attract even
bigger numbers into the crawling segment"
Go fast

"Because the
Wraith is built for crawling and
for speed, the suspension
is designed to accommodate
an optional
swaybar kit."
Built for speed

"We
used the C-hubs and
knuckles from the
XR10 because they
offered optimized
steering geometry
for higher speed applications"
High speed applications

"Care was taken to mount the speed
control up out of harm’s way as much as possible,
and typical wet and muddy conditions seen
by scale crawlers and bashers are doable"
My Axial 20T died when 8 drops of water landed on on it, probably because it ran 250 degrees and tried to be a steam engine

"...Matt Kearney
explains that the
Wraith is built to crawl
and go fast. And not
just go fast but handle
and perform well at
high speeds."
High speeds

"The AS-2 steering servo dishes out 90 in.-oz. of torque"
Yeah dishs that shite out like the lunch lady

"The Wraith uses a servo mounted on top of the axle for
improved high-speed handling."
High speeds

"RCCA: Who came up with the Wraith name, and why was that selected?
MK: The entire team collaborated on the name for the Wraith. We wanted something
that represented speed and the aggressiveness of this product."
Speed and aggressiveness

"RCCA: Is there a 2-speed in the future?
MK: There are no plans, at the moment, for a 2 speed, but we do pay attention to
what consumers are asking for, so it is something we would consider."
2 speed
:lmao:

"RCCA: How fast of a motor do you recommend for the Wraith?
MK: It all depends on the terrain you will be driving in. If you are going to be
running more in wide open spaces, I prefer something with some speed. I would
recommend a brushless setup and lean towards one of the short course systems
that have been released lately; the extra torque from those motors will help
. If you
are going to run more in the rocks, the stock speed control is really good; you can
run a 35-turn to 55-turn motor depending on how much wheel speed you want.
Another really good choice is a brushless crawler system; this gives you the ability
to go fast when you want."
lean towards one of the short course systems:lmao:help break parts...

"“The Wraith comes standard with our S40 compound.
This is a slightly firmer compound than
the Ripsaw tire in the R35 compound that we
just released. We opted for the S40 compound
because it is more durable and longer lasting on
high-traction surfaces. The main advantage of
the new wheels is the lower rotational mass gain
at speed compared with the weight of standard
bead-lock wheels. This rig is built for speed!”"
Slightly firmer:lmao:they're bricks! low rotational mass, built for speed!
Let's face it, it handles like poo out of the box.

"Wraith’s ability to hit the rocks and satisfy the need
for speed in all of us, and it should take rock crawling
to—you guessed it—all new heights. Add to the equation
that the Wraith is downright cool looking with its
aggressive style and Axial more than likely has kicked
off a whole new segment—rock racing."

Need for speed! ...how many times did you flip yours back over stock?

World Exclusive: Axial Wraith Revealed - RC Car Action

"How is it dual purpose? It’s designed to go fast and crawl. This truck comes RTR with a brushed setup, but it can handle brushless. Axial made sure that the not only could the drivetrain handle high speeds, but the suspension and steering geometries could as well."
It can handle brushless? I guess he doesn't mention for how long...

If it came geared 16/87 with the 27turn, open front diff and some weighted wheels I wouldn't of had near as many problems in the beginning, and a more enjoyable experience. Once I saw the speed I couldn't go slower, that's just not how I work :mrgreen:

Maybe we can agree on bad marketing? If it had been marketed as a scaler/crawler like the Honcho I wouldn't have had such high expectations for it's durabilty. How many 20T's have died??? the stock gearing/motor is an impossible setup, did they do any testing? maybe with a stick pack. Mine suffered from terrible "brown outs", so I couldn't steer and go at the same time,.. next morning, less than 24hrs later I was buying a BEC.

Why can't the unhappy folks hang out on a thread without the happy people blowing happy smoke up our arses? No story about "the learning experience" is gonna make him feel better, or me. It's not about the money it's about how in 75 days after my purchase I owned every major upgrade available, not because I wanted them, because I had to buy them in hopes of obtaining durability at the end of the parts rainbow. Not to mention the hundred and some odd dollars in shipping charges. Been sweet if people were like, "look bro it kinda sucks stock you need to buy all this shit here..." then I could have banged out a $400 order with RPP, got free shipping, spent 1 night upgrading everything and had a ball afterwards.

It is a blast once it's sorted, but I'm definitely not surprised when it breaks.

Last Saturday my buddy broke the ackerman plate, yes he drives like an ass too but still, what are the odds? This is another new reason why I'm running the XR sides of the knuckles 8) <table style="width:auto;"><tbody><tr><td></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From Wraith</td></tr></tbody></table>
 
Broken steering arm? :shock:
Sorry for being rude, but... are you "driving" it or just point-and-shoot hitting any curbs and big rocks around?

Yes, stock supension setup is not good for going fast and you end up in a rollover at first bend.
Well, what else could you realistically expect from a rig that has rigid axles and lockers front and rear? Hitting full speed on high traction surface and steer full lock at full throttle? Rollover? Sure! Both 1:1 and 1:10 do the same here, but please don't try with the 1:1, just believe me!

Yes, the motor and gearing combo is plain suicide (for the motor)


The marketing dept has pushed the adds like it was a buggy you can race drift or crawl alike. That's all BS and anybody having driven once an offroad truck with rigid axles know that's phisically not possible to achieve a drift race car behaviour out of a rigid axled offroad rig.


Gear down and drive like it's yourself inside there driving.
It's more fun too, it has a sense. It's a scale model. Not a boring videogame in which you are allowed to run without respect for laws of physic.

I can't believe there's so much whining about Wraith breaking here and there. People that HAD to buy everything metal and still breaks on regular schedule. Come on, I still have all stock plastic parts and have worn on rocks the underside to the point I had to replace the diff covers because made holes through, and still have not really broken a single plastic part.
Well, ok, twisted a bunch of driveshafts before making the "plug" trick inside to beef them up, then nothing more.
It's all in how you drive.

Again, sorry if this sounds too rude. :roll:
English is not my own language so it's hard to me to play with language "finesse"
 
Dam 3 pages already, i cant even get anyone to anwser which is the best way to install the diffs :ror:
You from easthampton longisland? unless there's other easthamptons...
 
Dam 3 pages already, i cant even get anyone to anwser which is the best way to install the diffs :ror:
You from easthampton longisland? unless there's other easthamptons...

:lmao:
Ring gears on the left when looking at them, as per manual. So the motor run regular (anticlockwise). Better for brushes on closed endbells and a must for fixed advanced degree.
Doesn't make real difference for BL.
Tried both ways for the matter of torque twist and does not make any real world difference. ;-)
 
Broken steering arm? :shock:
Sorry for being rude, but... are you "driving" it or just point-and-shoot hitting any curbs and big rocks around?

Gear down and drive like it's yourself inside there driving.
It's more fun too, it has a sense. It's a scale model. Not a boring videogame in which you are allowed to run without respect for laws of physic.

I can't believe there's so much whining about Wraith breaking here and there. People that HAD to buy everything metal and still breaks on regular schedule. Come on, I still have all stock plastic parts and have worn on rocks the underside to the point I had to replace the diff covers because made holes through, and still have not really broken a single plastic part.
Well, ok, twisted a bunch of driveshafts before making the "plug" trick inside to beef them up, then nothing more.
It's all in how you drive.


WE know you and all the other "learn how to drive" owners really have all the skill and its all our fault for trying to have fun with our RC cars.

Drive like im in it? seriously? I have a giant truck and I drive it like im in it every day. I Bought the RC car so that I could drive like I wasn't in it!

A few of you guys have said you haven't had any breaks. Yet follow it up with.... but that's because I replaced all these parts before I ever even used it! I don't care if you guys have had more luck with yours or if you think its because im using the truck improperly. The point is that the truck should have performed better out of the box. Especially considering the price. what if this was a Christmas present to a kid? and the thing implodes in 15 minutes?

(I can't wait to be quoted and told im an idiot by another 10 people... hoorayyy!)
 
Broken steering arm? :shock:
Sorry for being rude, but... are you "driving" it or just point-and-shoot hitting any curbs and big rocks around?

I usually start by going forward, reverse, forward, reverse as fast as I can for 5-10 minutes, then I drive it into my steps for about 15 minutes, (I'm trying to move the steps)... then sometimes I ride it. :badger:Just because at dinner I have a helmet and a spork doesn't mean I can't pilot and RC car, I'm like rainman with a Futaba

Actually we were driving it like this,
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vo_SLvlkPX4" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
most of the damage has been captured in videos here speedweigand's Channel - YouTube

Yes, stock supension setup is not good for going fast and you end up in a rollover at first bend.
Well, what else could you realistically expect from a rig that has rigid axles and lockers front and rear? Hitting full speed on high traction surface and steer full lock at full throttle? Rollover? Sure! Both 1:1 and 1:10 do the same here, but please don't try with the 1:1, just believe me!
um... thanks for the lesson, but my daily driver is a tricycle...

Yes, the motor and gearing combo is plain suicide (for the motor)"thumbsup" yay common ground

The marketing dept has pushed the adds like it was a buggy you can race drift or crawl alike. That's all BS and anybody having driven once an offroad truck with rigid axles know that's phisically not possible to achieve a drift race car behaviour out of a rigid axled offroad rig.
I disagree sir, it handles quite well... search youtube for 1978 Baja 500 and look at the solid axle turds they raced back then, what about KOH? they handle pretty good.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CCUB_EG_j2U" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

Gear down and drive like it's yourself inside there driving.
It's more fun too, it has a sense. It's a scale model. Not a boring videogame in which you are allowed to run without respect for laws of physic.
You would not appreciate my 1:1 driving ability I'm afraid, I don't need no stinking physics.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4A98SJg-iuc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This looks like what I do but with 1:1's, maybe you should tell these guys about physics.

I can't believe there's so much whining about Wraith breaking here and there. People that HAD to buy everything metal and still breaks on regular schedule. Come on, I still have all stock plastic parts and have worn on rocks the underside to the point I had to replace the diff covers because made holes through, and still have not really broken a single plastic part.
Well, ok, twisted a bunch of driveshafts before making the "plug" trick inside to beef them up, then nothing more.
It's all in how you drive.
Get out your video camera and your big gurl panties and make a video of you "beating the hell out of it" and we'll have a look at your version of hell.
Even if it is whining I thought that's what forums were for... people with common interests and/or problems getting together to help one another out. Your not really helping by the way. Maybe try something like, "wow I'm really sorry to hear about your bad experience, I really like mine and have had no problems... maybe you got a bad one?" See that would be soothing at least.
Again, sorry if this sounds too rude. :roll:
English is not my own language so it's hard to me to play with language "finesse"
Actually your English is quite good, better than so many from here sadly. I have not taken offense, but like I said make a video of you driving your Wraith "hard" and we'll see. Mine is no shelf queen but I don't necessarily try to break it, except on the 1/4 pipe, practically there is no reason for a Wraith to be on a quarter pipe...:roll:
 
(I can't wait to be quoted and told im an idiot by another 10 people... hoorayyy!)

:twisted: You are such an idiot! Are you driving it with your eyes open? Do you steer with your butt? lol

Here's a good one, how about mud? Is driving it in mud exceptable? Matgyver manages to break a rear locker in my mudpit. How about instead of a cool iron cross we just fill up all the voids with metal so it doesn't break, or atleast has to explode the diff case... that would be more impressive than some pins breaking off. 7min and 40secs for diff fail clickity click.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/sf4q6EU4rNU" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
 
I'd probably agree that the Wraith is not really the best choice for someone brand new into RC, but then I don't think a scale or semi-scale crawler of any description is a good place to start the hobby.

this sums it up.


if you wanna thrash a crawler, it will break. sounds like you would be better off with a slash if you're kicks come from seeing how fast it will go and doing donuts and jumping it.

my RTR scx-10 has not BROKEN 1 thing in 4 months. (probably 50 hours of run time) but the difference is in the way i drive my rig.

if you wanna break less things, get a 55t motor and a 15tooth pinion. it will go so slow that you can plow a wall at full speed and nothing will break lol. but the problem with a slow setup is you wont be able to jump it or do donuts anymore.. sorry.

hope you enjoy the rig though.
 
Ok, from the tone of your replies I see that my post was a bit too much in criticism.
I beg your pardon if you felt offended by my post. I've no intention to start a flame war.

I see your driving skill in that video, but the thing I'm trying to say is that in all the videos with Wraiths making huge jumps and literally flying over obstacles, it's clear that the RC model does things that 1:1 rigs cannot.
Think about jumping down the bank in the wood in the opening of the video with an 1:1, with everything scaled up, it's like jumping down from the roof of a 4 storey building and landing on the nose! What real rig would survive? I think not even an X-bike!
Clearly we have very different points of view, you like all-out-performance, when I prefer a scaled performance. Just personal taste, there's no right or wrong.
But neither KoH rigs jumps that high. Neither Icelandic FOFF do. Neither the guys off the "Crawling is for babies" video (blue one is Tim Cameron, right?)


As for the locked axles behaviour at high speed, again the scaled speed of Baja of Koh rigs is much slower than our RC rockets.
And even Baja and Koh don't steer that hard at full speed.
The behaviour of a locked front axle at speed is never so nice and predictable.
Drivers that like to go fast, very often use selectable lockers at front (some at rears too) and run open at speed, but that's an option that in RC isn't widely used. Only Venom from what I know has it.

Cheers ;-)
 
Gear down and drive like it's yourself inside there driving. It's more fun too, it has a sense. It's a scale model. Not a boring videogame in which you are allowed to run without respect for laws of physic.

Very well put. I built a kit, and this is how I enjoy it, and it has worked out so far.


EDIT TO ADD: That "crawling is for babies" video was beyond dumb. I'm all about fast cars/trucks/bikes, and putting to much power in a given application just for the hell of it, but really, they just had too much wheel speed. All they did was skid all over the place at WOT. Every once in a while they would let off the gas and regain some traction, and then started moving up the hill again as if by magic. :roll::roll::roll:
 
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Great mudding vid!! None of that lame driving through dirty water stuff, that was propper mud "thumbsup" Time to clean up :mrgreen:

What are the dimensions of your mud box?
 
this sums it up.


if you wanna thrash a crawler, it will break. sounds like you would be better off with a slash if you're kicks come from seeing how fast it will go and doing donuts and jumping it.
The Wraiths not a crawler, it's a racer remember?

my RTR scx-10 has not BROKEN 1 thing in 4 months. (probably 50 hours of run time) but the difference is in the way i drive my rig.
Nope Honcho's are indestructible in comparison, I couldn't break one of them either, I tried. That's sorta why I bought the Wraith, I liked the Honcho so much and the Wraith was supposed to be bigger, faster, stronger, and just more badass.

if you wanna break less things, get a 55t motor and a 15tooth pinion. it will go so slow that you can plow a wall at full speed and nothing will break lol. but the problem with a slow setup is you wont be able to jump it or do donuts anymore.. sorry.
I've had nosebleeds faster than a 55T, not fun for me personally. I have several rock sections in my yard that require leap-a-bility to clear gaps... maybe a 35T on 3 or 4S

hope you enjoy the rig though.
I do now, and mine has survived some horrible things after operation beefcake. I hope some of you watch my videos and realize it will do more than just drive around the yard.
Ok, from the tone of your replies I see that my post was a bit too much in criticism.
I beg your pardon if you felt offended by my post. I've no intention to start a flame war.
No, no offense, it was my attempt at humor, I admit I might have been being an ass. I just don't understand how a whole community can be so "ok" with paying good money for mediocre equipment. As long as people just roll over and like it, the manufactures are just gonna keep boxing up cheaper and cheaper crap. If Ford sold me a truck that burnt up 3 motors in the first 10 days, and also burned up for 50% of the purchasers there'd be riots in Detroit. When you buy an RTR I agree it is supposed to suck, it should be slow, and lack all the cool bits. You should be able to put a pack in it and hand it to your 9yr old nephew and watch him ram the slow ass rtr off your brothers nice wood trim and not break. However the Wraith is not geared or motored to be slow, it has terrible odds of survival OTB, which goes back to my previous post... 27T, 16/87, open frt diff... now it's slow and if the screws don't fall out of the knuckles reasonably durable.

I see your driving skill in that video, but the thing I'm trying to say is that in all the videos with Wraiths making huge jumps and literally flying over obstacles, it's clear that the RC model does things that 1:1 rigs cannot.
Think about jumping down the bank in the wood in the opening of the video with an 1:1, with everything scaled up, it's like jumping down from the roof of a 4 storey building and landing on the nose! What real rig would survive? I think not even an X-bike!
Clearly we have very different points of view, you like all-out-performance, when I prefer a scaled performance. Just personal taste, there's no right or wrong.
But neither KoH rigs jumps that high. Neither Icelandic FOFF do. Neither the guys off the "Crawling is for babies" video (blue one is Tim Cameron, right?)

For the record mine with lighter wheels and flipped knuckles did not break:mrgreen:, what's impressive is that it broke the little aluminum bit and not a tie rod (Vanquish Ti), or servo mount (stock), servo (7955) or anything else "thumbsup"

Tim has a new buggy but it's not blue, he may have been driving the blue one though... I think that's Screaming Blue. Idk now there's lots of crazy assholes with pockets full of cash to burn... coleworx is pumping out buggies. Wish it was this crazy asshole :cry:

You probably didn't see this... Tanner has physics in a headlock, he
drops 10 stories down 90 feet of orange track and soars 332 feet through the air.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7SjX7A_FR6g" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>

As for the locked axles behaviour at high speed, again the scaled speed of Baja of Koh rigs is much slower than our RC rockets.
Mine does like 18mph on 3S, thats only like 180 in real life... come on that's close ;-)

And even Baja and Koh don't steer that hard at full speed.
The behaviour of a locked front axle at speed is never so nice and predictable.
Drivers that like to go fast, very often use selectable lockers at front (some at rears too) and run open at speed, but that's an option that in RC isn't widely used. Only Venom from what I know has it.
Ok this part is a little offensive, so you must think I go 18mph up my street then crank the wheel all the way and wonder why it rolls over? See you must think I'm some sort of drooling, helmet wearing, birth defect.

FYI the river carnage video Ol Blue has and open front diff and went everywhere the General V went, next video it will have 500,000wt diff lock, we'll see then...

Also I think it handles great, even geared 22/87 on 3S to clear the cross-over at the track 25-30 mph?, it was still very manageable at high speeds as well as in the corners. It was locked at the track, the only time it really sucked was coming into and trying to accelerate out of the hairpin, sometimes it'd drift perfect though, most of the time it'd just traction roll if you jumped on the gas, I want to try the HR sways for that little problem.

Very well put. I built a kit, and this is how I enjoy it, and it has worked out so far.

EDIT TO ADD: That "crawling is for babies" video was beyond dumb. I'm all about fast cars/trucks/bikes, and putting to much power in a given application just for the hell of it, but really, they just had too much wheel speed. All they did was skid all over the place at WOT. Every once in a while they would let off the gas and regain some traction, and then started moving up the hill again as if by magic. :roll::roll::roll:

So your advice is basically to drive like my grandma and tell myself I'm having a good time? I bet with a geared down 35T you can probably break driveshafts on command, after about the 3rd one in day it'd have to visit the quarter pipe for punishment :twisted:
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Aj4WSO7sMXQ" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vcLU9gtPsLI" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="560"></iframe>
I enjoy seeing the impossible happen, it makes me smile. If I had unlimited budget I'd build a monster truck and go on tour with Digger. The way I see it, even if you broke it in half, that'd be like $36... so what? I'm not pissed about the plastic parts I've broke except for the knuckle, the screw fell out and it broke, 2 days old.
<iframe src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/y4OfLCXkXLg" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" width="420"></iframe>

I'm pissed that out of the box it eats motors, a little pissed the screws fall out of the axles like it's they're job. And also a little pissed about the "brown outs". The marketing was misleading and the gearing was unbelievable. We have a dated, proven weak locker design that puts form over function and a basic 1/10 scale drivetrain in a RC model that easily weighs 8lbs, which is heavier than most 1/8 scales. The Wraith really needs 1/8th scale diffs, with an open 4 spider as an option. My new problem is it'll break one or more of the 4 little screws that hold the ring gear on (43/13 HD gears, stock case, HD locker, epoxy), then the mesh is jacked and I take it apart and rebuild it. There was nothing left to break so something new and creative popped up. That's why I'm playing with the open... my Scorpion came with spare spider gears how cool is that? I also like the modded stock driveshafts as they break long before the next links in the chain.

Great mudding vid!! None of that lame driving through dirty water stuff, that was propper mud "thumbsup" Time to clean up :mrgreen:

What are the dimensions of your mud box?

Thanks dude! "thumbsup" 8ft x 20"wide x14" high, I board vacant houses so I have alot of scrap like this, that's how I ended up with a box full of mud and the original part of the TTC course. To do over I'd build a significant frame that allows the sides to angle out, more bank than wall. "The box" as it's known has 2x4 reinforcements inside that serve as obstacles under the mud, a whole lot of Thompson's and I'd guess weighs in the 5-600pound range full of water. It's proof of the effectiveness of wood glue. Did I mention I had to treat it for mosquitoes? :roll:
 
I've got 50+ hours on my wraith and the only think I've broken is a link. This truck isn't a slash. If you want to pretend it is don't be surprised when things break. Keep it on all fours and it will never break.
 
Uptil now the only thing about the Wraith that has me completely in " what in darnation were they thinking"- mode is those " heavy duty" lockers. I broke the front in about 5 minutes with stock gearing.

Only found out when doing some maintenance.. Square housings can be round... :lmao:

I have a bad habit of trying to see if crawlers will climb stairs full throttle ( the only way to have some crawling fun, living in a totally flat country) That wil mostly bring out the weaknesses pretty soon.

I guess I just got lucky, or maybe the later releases of the Wraith have some revised materials for links, and some more stringent quality control, and such. I haven'tbroken any of the stock parts after I switched the front lockers for HPI diff internals. fits like a glove, and quite cheap too, unlike the $ 10.- for 2 tiny sattelite-wheel axles that the distributor overhere has the audacity to ask for it...he must hate having to stock parts very much, me think.

Well, luckily there's the interwebs and tons of American shops that send parts for less than $4.- Postage&packing "thumbsup" .....Dutch-distributor's loss.... It had no loose screws out of the box, gear-meshing correct -a feat on it's own :ror: - etc. Etc.

Even with a 8.5t LRP, the links, gears etc, kept on working, being it, all " spaghetty 'od. They flex like there's no tomorrow.
I also have my doubts about the 20t. Axial shoul have kept at an ordinary 27t silver can, especially in a RTR, - as these will mostly be purchased for kids-

I know, the "Racer"- bit could be considered a misnomer for what is -basically- a monstertruck ( c'm on those wheels are bigger than my tammie dagger's)

Well, I guess I just got lucky.
 
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