• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

SSD portal kit for SCX10 2 axle

concerning the inner axles can we just cut the end off other axles and put flat spots on them to fit? Is that bearing race the same as on it SCX10 II spindle?

No, as the large inner knuckle bearing is 1mm closer in the portal.

This might have already been commented on, but can't find it via the search function.
Has a complete front portal set up being released yet, or can we now use the front set up on a Pro44/Diamond axle?
I am sorely tempted by these portals for my UMG10 build, but a little confused on the front end over what to use for a strong set up.

All the Portal knuckles have been updated to larger CVDs.
The rear portal axle has been updated with stronger nylon parts now.

We will also be releasing new aluminum rear tubes and rear portal housings next week. Portal weights will follow shortly.

We dont recommend using portals on the original Axial plastic axle with tiny splines as the portals will strip the splines and spin on those.

This is why we only recommend using the front portals on the newew Axial one piece plastic axle. As the C hubs are fixed.

We will release a new nylon front portal axle soon with aluminum C hubs, same fitting as our Trail King front axle (not tiny splines).
 
Why are only rears available?

What would you suggest on a dead stock SCX10 II for front and rear axle upgrades?

We tried to make the minimum amount of parts to add portals to a stock SCX10 II . That's why only a rear axle and knuckles were released first.

The complete front portal axle will be available in a few weeks.

For a stock truck to add portals you just need:

SSD00220 Portal Knuckles for SCX10 II

SSD00284 Pro44 Portal Rear Axle for SCX10 II
 
Installed my updated portals. Also installed rear aluminum axle half’s as well as the aluminum rear portal case. For the front I went with the suggested one piece Axial housing. I got a real good deal on this bundle.

ad75a66f39d6f7c0a6e04e854d61381b.jpg

ecc01a7feac5754586ae805bd86e8846.jpg

7ac5e802a52936d7c58cb2c835c0a05d.jpg

f33efc639e5d67b25fe12c4ff487c7ab.jpg

25b01b533ff12b6c287dcb10afb44a19.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Put in about 3 hours on the new portals. No issues at all. Was able to get up some stuff I wasn’t able to before.
d06a5bb0ecd1e5636d4e5bde4caca41f.jpg

cc23ad97e9bcdd0d1a91fbf71cf06453.jpg

137a78894bf0c5f43e84a5f31cdb1ec3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Looks cool but all my rigs have inner rings. Will it work with spacers?

What wheels do you have?

If they are SLW hub compatible then you should be able to space them out with wider hubs.


You could just get some SSD wheels that fit 8)
 
Even though the stock Axial one piece front axles held up just fine with no issues. I felt that I could of used a little more weight up front.
So I’m going to try ar44 Beef Tubes with Samix brass C-hubs and see how they hold up.

825236157f82012e640dde66c75d8723.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
We will be releasing the brass portal weights next week.
 
VERY nice!

Do we have an update on when the complete front portal axle will be available?
 
Rear is a racket. Just received, built and test drove. Build went smooth but the plastic tubes are super thin and weigh nothing. I figured it would be the weak point and proved that in less than 10 mins of driving. One tube broke at the threads on the inside. Now to the racket. If you want these to not be useless, you have to drop another $35 on the aluminum tubes. They should just be included with the price reflecting it. I would rather pay upfront than be down for a week, waiting on parts to make my new parts work.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
 
Rear is a racket. Just received, built and test drove. Build went smooth but the plastic tubes are super thin and weigh nothing. I figured it would be the weak point and proved that in less than 10 mins of driving. One tube broke at the threads on the inside. Now to the racket. If you want these to not be useless, you have to drop another $35 on the aluminum tubes. They should just be included with the price reflecting it. I would rather pay upfront than be down for a week, waiting on parts to make my new parts work.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

I kind of figured that out. So I went with the aluminum tubes from the beginning.
 
Back
Top