I think the front truss could be a tad higher, which I'll explain why later.
Sorry, really late to the party here. I dont come in this section much anymore.
You dont really want the upper links to be any higher. Where you have them is pushing it depending on the chassis. If you put them higher, you will have much more anti dive in your front link geometry and it typically wont serve you well. You might even find this now but with my sucker punch, I might have had close to the same amount of anti dive as you do? You will just have to drive it and find out. If they upper links at the axle go higher, you might have to have a chassis made that has the chassis upper links that go higher and still yet, you would be messing with geometry in other ways. In other words.... best to keep the truss how it is.
I said I would mention why I thought the front DLux link mount should be slightly higher and the issue was the servo arm hitting the upper link rod end on a left turn.
As said, I think one of the huge issues of why the servo horn is hitting the rod end is because you spaced them horizontally at the mount. Ideally, you should not even be into the rod ends if you have the correct length drag link and not space it closer to the horn.
Here are a couple of pictures of mine and the clearance issues (none).
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/461851-dlux-sportsman-build-12.html#post4529269
I know you said that you spaced them out because you were probably binding the rod end since they were straight. Putting some bent rod ends on instead of bent links works great. This way you should be able to remove the spacer that is causing the issue and also get bind free. I also wonder if you could have avoided bending the rear uppers with some bent rod ends? Always good to have the bent ends in the tool box to double check. I ran my car with bent uppers and know quite a few others that did too with zero issues.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/461851-dlux-sportsman-build-21.html#post4655441
As another option, I ended up changing my sporty to have steering like my Berg since I like it so much. If you have the real estate, you should give it a shot. The geometry is much better and the servo horn is out of the way of the rocks along with not fighting the rod ends on the upper mount.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/461851-dlux-sportsman-build-25.html#post5142968
Lastly, you could try a flatter non clamping servo horn like in the pictures above. As you can see, it will help a ton with clearance issues and against popular belief, non clamping horns are STRONGER and more reliable than clamping. Its pretty much a moot point if youre not stripping clamping horns but just throwing the info out there."thumbsup"
ive been trying to think of the best way to make the right side servo mount a bit beefier. That little grub screw makes me worry
You shouldnt have issues with the set screw, I dont know a single person that has and lots and lots of guys run the same setup on Ultra 4 cars where they are close to 8lb and are ramming rocks at high speed.
A little fastener tech for you...
Whenever using a set screw, you never want to tighten against whatever its going towards at the bottom. Using a set screw, you want to thread it in with thread locker just until its securely into the material. Ideally this is 1.5x the diameter so 3mm x 1.5 = 4.5mm deep.
After doing that, you then want to put the nut or in this case, the servo post over the top of it and crank it down. Now it will act like a screw and put all the forces on the threads and under the head of the nut instead of all the forces only at the very bottom of the set screw.
Pretty overkill for RC stuff but maybe it will be helpful in "real world" applications where strength has more importance. Either way, my guess is that youre threading the set screw in too far before putting the servo post on.
