Skaldiddog's "Progress"

[Grimreeper]

4s would only reduce ESC heat if the motor wind was increased to keep wheelspeed the same. 4s would increase heat on the internal BEC, so without mitigation of that component it could actually increase system heat.

One of my intitial runs after smashing some micro pros and running 4s got so hot it melted the heat shrink off my smash job.:shock: After that I unsmashed them, ran larger motor wires and never had any more problems.

 

[SkaldidDog]

One of my intitial runs after smashing some micro pros and running 4s got so hot it melted the heat shrink off my smash job.:shock: After that I unsmashed them, ran larger motor wires and never had any more problems.

Thanks for your input Reeper. Mine melted shrink wrap and signal wire insulation. What gauge wires did you switch between and what temps did you experience with each setup? Did you test just switching wires and keepin your ESCs smashed? It sounds like you didn't but I'm curious anyway. For our low amperage (brushed) application I don't see how 20ga vs 16ga could make a massive difference. Maybe I'm wrong. I bet the un-smashing had more to do with cooler temps.

Thanks again.
J

 

[ubbb69]

Thanks for your input Reeper. Mine melted shrink wrap and signal wire insulation. What gauge wires did you switch between and what temps did you experience with each setup? Did you test just switching wires and keepin your ESCs smashed? It sounds like you didn't but I'm curious anyway. For our low amperage (brushed) application I don't see how 20ga vs 16ga could make a massive difference. Maybe I'm wrong. I bet the un-smashing had more to do with cooler temps.

Thanks again.
J

May be a shot in the dark. Would you think the larger wire pulls more heat away from the esc acting like a heat sink. With quality large gauge wire you can feel the heat from soldering a couple inches back.

 

[SkaldidDog]

May be a shot in the dark. Would you think the larger wire pulls more heat away from the esc acting like a heat sink. With quality large gauge wire you can feel the heat from soldering a couple inches back.

I'm sure that's part of it but the difference in heat soak between the gauges (16 vs 20) can't be a whole lot. Again, I may be wrong. JRH sells smashed esc's w/12ga battery wire I believe. He says that this and the 16 ga motor wire help dissipate heat to some extent while reducing resistance. But with the central FETs kicking out most of the heat and the wires attached to the corners of the board, I decided to dump heat from the source. I need to run some controlled experiments as JRH has mentioned. Either way there is a compromise between performance and weight. This is just another area of that compromise. Maybe I've gone too far for "cold" electronics. I doubt it but time will tell.
My 0.02.

 

[phllint]

I realize this is a serious challenge to fix or overcome depending on how you look at it but, why do the mini's have the "over heating" problem when fxr's do not. an fxr whether smashed or not, decased or not, in a box or not, none of that has ever affected my fxr's, why not? what is the major difference between the two to have them act so much differently? I love hh products but I have heard of a lot of over heating issues with the mini's. In my 4.3lb rig with 13 turn crawl master pros and squished and heatshrunk fxr's, I have yet to hit 105 degrees yet a friend with about the same but mini's hits no problem 140. I hope you figure it out and come up with a viable solution that the masses can do. what you are doing looks fantastic and appears to be working great. keep up the great work and have a great day.

 

[SkaldidDog]

I realize this is a serious challenge to fix or overcome depending on how you look at it but, why do the mini's have the "over heating" problem when fxr's do not. an fxr whether smashed or not, decased or not, in a box or not, none of that has ever affected my fxr's, why not? what is the major difference between the two to have them act so much differently? I love hh products but I have heard of a lot of over heating issues with the mini's. In my 4.3lb rig with 13 turn crawl master pros and squished and heatshrunk fxr's, I have yet to hit 105 degrees yet a friend with about the same but mini's hits no problem 140. I hope you figure it out and come up with a viable solution that the masses can do. what you are doing looks fantastic and appears to be working great. keep up the great work and have a great day.

Thanks for posting Phllint. You make good points. Please post your wire gauges and a pic of your smashed electronics. In short I have no answer as to why Tekins run cooler than CCSWM's or HH minis. I've never owned an FXR so I have no frame of reference. Maybe the big pegs act as heat sinks but they won't be the 50+F delta we are talking about.

J

 

[stubs179]

I realize this is a serious challenge to fix or overcome depending on how you look at it but, why do the mini's have the "over heating" problem when fxr's do not. an fxr whether smashed or not, decased or not, in a box or not, none of that has ever affected my fxr's, why not? what is the major difference between the two to have them act so much differently? I love hh products but I have heard of a lot of over heating issues with the mini's. In my 4.3lb rig with 13 turn crawl master pros and squished and heatshrunk fxr's, I have yet to hit 105 degrees yet a friend with about the same but mini's hits no problem 140. I hope you figure it out and come up with a viable solution that the masses can do. what you are doing looks fantastic and appears to be working great. keep up the great work and have a great day.

It might have something to do with the dragbrake? I loved everything about my FXR's except the dragbrake. It is seriously lacking, i have way batter dragbrake with my micro's and 30t/turned down cans than it did with fxr's and basic 45t broods. I mean night and day difference and i would imagine the energy has to go somewhere? Could it be a cause for the heat.

 

[Beerman Crawler]

It might have something to do with the dragbrake? I loved everything about my FXR's except the dragbrake. It is seriously lacking, i have way batter dragbrake with my micro's and 30t/turned down cans than it did with fxr's and basic 45t broods. I mean night and day difference and i would imagine the energy has to go somewhere? Could it be a cause for the heat.

There has to be some turth behind this. I run my holmes hold at 40% and i dont have heat issus. I can see if you have your holmes hold set at 100%, your wheels are on lock down. Im not for sure my exact temperature but its slightly warm, i would guess under 130. I also have them smashed and coated to keep them waterproof.

 

[tapped-out]

There has to be some turth behind this. I run my holmes hold at 40% and i dont have heat issus. I can see if you have your holmes hold set at 100%, your wheels are on lock down. Im not for sure my exact temperature but its slightly warm, i would guess under 130. I also have them smashed and coated to keep them waterprooff.

I've never activated homes hold, and my br-minis run @ 130°+ @ times(average temp) 1pk or 4pks.
Remember on Holmes Hobbies website he says the br-minis can handle 180°.

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

Thanks for posting Phllint. You make good points. Please post your wire gauges and a pic of your smashed electronics. In short I have no answer as to why Tekins run cooler than CCSWM's or HH minis. I've never owned an FXR so I have no frame of reference. Maybe the big pegs act as heat sinks but they won't be the 50+F delta we are talking about.

J

On the contrary, those pegs are an extremely good heat sink. The fxr is in fact designed to use them as the sink.


I would like to clarify that our minis do run hotter, but we still haven't actually seen an overheating situation.

 

[SkaldidDog]

On the contrary, those pegs are an extremely good heat sink. The fxr is in fact designed to use them as the sink.
I would like to clarify that our minis do run hotter, but we still haven't actually seen an overheating situation.

Well the peg guess was not entirely off target. Cool. Literally. And truedat on the overheating. Every ESC I've ever used in my crawler has run hot to the touch. Never had one actually fail. The CC units got really "soft" after a while and I tossed them. They melted shrink wrap too.

My cooling efforts with my minis was for a nice bump in speed, consistent speed from both units (not heat dependent) and to prevent eventual "softness" even if it never happens.

I'm stoked crawlers are so reliable overall that out of boredom we have to posit about serious problems without basis.

Thanks JRH.

J

 

[phllint]

here are my smashed fxr's with deans 16 gauge ultra wire for everything. I use this setup for all 3of our comp rigs and have never had a heat issue. I only run one stock cap per vp at tekin on 3s

sometimes 4s

 

[SkaldidDog]

here are my smashed fxr's with deans 16 gauge ultra wire for everything. I use this setup for all 3of our comp rigs and have never had a heat issue. I only run one stock cap per vp at tekin on 3s

sometimes 4s

P,

What are the hottest temps you've seen? "Issue" leaves a lot of room for interpretation. Just curious. Thanks for posting.

Cheers,

J

 

[phllint]

With a temp gun, the highest I have ever had was in the bound up 6lb. days and it got to 112 with craftsmen temp gun

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

 

[phllint]

Now I'm lucky if I hit 100 and I kinda drive hard. In 6 years I have cooked over a dozen 7950's. So far the 9380 has been a trooper and still alive ever since they came out

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

 

[stubs179]

On the contrary, those pegs are an extremely good heat sink. The fxr is in fact designed to use them as the sink.


I would like to clarify that our minis do run hotter, but we still haven't actually seen an overheating situation.

I'm i off with the dragbrake causing extra heat?

FXR's don't get hot but their dragbrake SUCKS!!! Yours get hotter but I can set the dragbrake so stiff they will lock my super tires. The two esc's are not even in the same league.

 

[ittybitty]

Yours get hotter but I can set the dragbrake so stiff they will lock my super tires.

That reminds me of Nationals 2012 when John was hanging out at the Weiss Lake Lodge and was watching me drive my Super around after I had just finished it up. It was on 8" Rovers with Berg axles for reference. He made a comment about it seemed like I had the drag brake set too strong (it was humming quite a bit). So I asked...how strong is too strong? He proceeded to pick up my rig and hold it by the two rear tires with the rig level...it stayed there...he very simply said..."that's too strong!" :lmao:

 

[phllint]

I'm i off with the dragbrake causing extra heat?

FXR's don't get hot but their dragbrake SUCKS!!! Yours get hotter but I can set the dragbrake so stiff they will lock my super tires. The two esc's are not even in the same league.

Do you really need that much drag brake? I obviously have dual fxr's and 13 turn 5 seg motors and have more than enough drag brake.your supposed to be crawling not stopping lol. Sorry had to

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

 

[stubs179]

Sorry to high jack, Joel.

Do you really need that much drag brake? I obviously have dual fxr's and 13 turn 5 seg motors and have more than enough drag brake.your supposed to be crawling not stopping lol. Sorry had to

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD

Yes, i ran FXR's for years and they were fine but what really made me change my mine is when I was judging at Best of the West on the course, actually Joel built it, and there was a gate that people with castle/Holmes esc's could go right up and I don't think I single person with FXR's made it. You had to stand the truck almost straight up and then dig to get he front to grab the ledge and put the truck up. The drag brake on the castle/Holmes esc's would just hold them until the tires grabbed. But every time someone with FXR's tried the back tires would role backwards way before the fronts ever though of getting traction. After watching that I switched and will never go back. Night and day better.

 

[Frankenwheely]

Wow. This really turned into a heated debate.:lmao:

So what I would like to know is that...what's the problem? This guy designed something that worked to help his esc's run cooler. And they look hella cool. Can't a guy have some fun with a bottle of Clown Oil, a mill and be done with it. Funny enough, this is the first item that Joel has whittled out of metal and no one is knocking down his inbox to get some made. Go on with your bad self Joel-o.:mrgreen: