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Skaldiddog's "Progress"

Re: Crunch time...

And I thought I was the only one whacked out enough to machine one out of
plate... I milled mine out of Ti... I think bending solid bar is a hell of a lot less
work...! LOL

I'm whacked out like that too House. Back in 2008 I used plate delrin (RTICUL8) and in Jan 2009 switched designs to my current 7075 plate. Now, after after 4 years of the raggedy old asymmetrical unit, it's time for a stronger, more overkill, better looking and performing unit.

Not until I built this one did I realize the old one was asymmetrical. It limited steering to the right so I had to dial down my EPA on that side to prevent binding. Not any more. I also learned that this aluminum is so hard that the chips will get into your skin just like steel. I've never had problems milling aluminum in flip flops before. I'm not milling this crap without shoes on again...damn ant bites. This one weighs only 0.21g over the previous.

Top


Bottom


Kingpin clearance groove


Top installed


Looking forward to many years of driving this one. Now if I could just get my dang cases this rig would be one step closer to ~done.







BURGER PORN!!!!!
 
That cleaned up nicely. Still amazed you got it "done" before AZ. I never knew about your RTICUL8 build, you sure have made a lot of progress:mrgreen:
 
You should stop cluttering up this hamburger thread with useless crawler info.:ror:








Kidding! Tie rod is looking good. "thumbsup"
 
That cleaned up nicely. Still amazed you got it "done" before AZ. I never knew about your RTICUL8 build, you sure have made a lot of progress:mrgreen:

Funny guy"thumbsup".

That sucked getting the tie rod done on time. I still can't believe I did it. That's the one advantage of etch a sketch milling...one off speed. I trimmed the bottom of the tie rod where the drag link attaches so that the bevel runs all the way across front and rear. Looks better now and is complete.

I still have RTICUL8 in a plastic bag. One day I'll put it back together.

What's next on your rig?

You should stop cluttering up this hamburger thread with useless crawler info.:ror:
Kidding! Tie rod is looking good. "thumbsup"

"thumbsup"
 
Hudy servo horn with different vertical arm offset

Since my drag link attaches to the top side of my servo horn I've wanted a horn arm that was as low as possible in relation to the servo output gear. Enter one from Hudy. From the centering punch test it's made of the same alloy as the Hitec arms I use. I didn't punch a piece of 6061 or 7075 to compare to. I'll do that soon. Either way. It's an option if you like a lower "profile" servo horn. It may turn out to be too low for me and, when slightly bent from a whack, it may get into my tie-rod. The Hudy arm has less material and slight bevels on the top so it can't be as strong as the Hitec ones. Time and one good hit will tell.

View from top.



View from bottom.



J
 
The Hudy horn is a good pick. For the worry of taking a whack and bending it into ur tie rod. You can check out these horn's from AHZ..

ypygajyj.jpg


ema4ehub.jpg
 
I've been using one as well on my sporty. No issues thus far. I really like it. I have no luck with the clamping style.
 
The Hudy horn is a good pick. For the worry of taking a whack and bending it into ur tie rod. You can check out these horn's from AHZ..

Thanks for the suggestions Winner. I think (aka don't know) that the Hitec and Hudy are 7075 and all others are 6061. I punch tested both and they are the same as each other and the divot was small. I didn't punch test a piece of 6061 or 7075 as a positive control to confirm...but I will tonight. I know that the robitronic ones bend very easily with a single hit so they are definitely shittyshittyone.

I've been using one as well on my sporty. No issues thus far. I really like it. I have no luck with the clamping style.

Good to hear. I prefer to avoid clampers too after much headache. If wiggle and slop are built in, you'll never get them out. I like the black and blue ones because they are press fit...and maybe even the correct alloy...I'll check.

Thanks gents.

J
 
You should have your buddy wire EDM a hand full of splined holes in a piece of 7075 and just mill your own arms to suit. You would need a top hat bushing to apply your downward pressure as the splines would be thru holes. Easy, right?
 
You should have your buddy wire EDM a hand full of splined holes in a piece of 7075 and just mill your own arms to suit. You would need a top hat bushing to apply your downward pressure as the splines would be thru holes. Easy, right?

Quite possibly. I'll see if he's game. Not sure if the arm will stay tight if it is not bottomed out on a surface. It may slide down and dig into the plastic gear case. I could place a brass bushing on top of the case under the arm. That would work. Ideally I'd get a 0.250" sheet with splined holes that go 0.175" through"thumbsup". I may pursue that route too.

Thanks holmz.

J
 
My guess would be a broach. Forged would be cool too though. Anyone know if a sinker EDM can make a flat bottom hole?
 
Nice. Now all you need is to reverse engineer the tiny little spline features and make a CAD model. Like I said, easy. Lol
 
Its kinda cool how much time and engineering goes into a little servo horn and they are only $10-15 bucks.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
Rob what's the max rpm on your machine? Is there a reason I'm missing that you couldn't machine the splines? Then Joel could take it from there?
 
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