"Scrappy" No Prep Street Eliminator

[Panther6834]

I know it would cost extra...but...if maintaining that red in all the anodized parts of seriously important to you (it might be, and, then again, ie might not be "that" important), your could always take the blue anodized post to a local anodizer. They could remove the blue, and re-anodize it red. The process will remove a super-thin layer of the aluminum, equally to approximately have the thickness of the oxidized layer...ie. approx 0.002" per side, or 0.004" from the entire thickness.

The question is, be is the additional cost worth it in order to maintain the "color theme". To some, it certainly wouldn't be...and, to to others, it would definitely be worth it. Using another of my vehicles as an example, I'm in the process of making upgrades on my Baja Rey. To keep with the color theme of the body, to I was going to paint the frame. Unfortunately, paint isn't exactly durable...but, Cerakote is. So, I'm having the cage Cerakoted...at an additional cost of $150. Again, to a waste of money to some, but worth it to others.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[xirtic]

I know it would cost extra...but...if maintaining that red in all the anodized parts of seriously important to you (it might be, and, then again, ie might not be "that" important), your could always take the blue anodized post to a local anodizer. They could remove the blue, and re-anodize it red. The process will remove a super-thin layer of the aluminum, equally to approximately have the thickness of the oxidized layer...ie. approx 0.002" per side, or 0.004" from the entire thickness.

The question is, be is the additional cost worth it in order to maintain the "color theme". To some, it certainly wouldn't be...and, to to others, it would definitely be worth it. Using another of my vehicles as an example, I'm in the process of making upgrades on my Baja Rey. To keep with the color theme of the body, to I was going to paint the frame. Unfortunately, paint isn't exactly durable...but, Cerakote is. So, I'm having the cage Cerakoted...at an additional cost of $150. Again, to a waste of money to some, but worth it to others.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

If this was my primary car, I would get the parts refinished. I am a bit OCD, so the mix of colors does hit me... But not enough to go thru the hassle here to get the parts done. I do prefer the quality of these parts over the pieces that I have from Drag Race Concepts. (vendor with color options). The new body mount that I bought for my other no prep car HAD to match.


Xirtic

 

[Panther6834]

If this was my primary car, I would get the parts refinished. I am a bit OCD, so the mix of colors does hit me... But not enough to go thru the hassle here to get the parts done. I do prefer the quality of these parts over the pieces that I have from Drag Race Concepts. (vendor with color options). The new body mount that I bought for my other no prep car HAD to match.


Xirtic

Just curious something, considering you said you "prefer the quality of [Exotek] parts over the pieces that [you] have from Drag Race Concepts". Is there a problem with DragRace Concepts quality? If so, what parts, specifically, are your referring to.

For my first build, I'm going the typical Slash/Bandit route, using the plastic Slash LCG chassis...and, I am already installing and/or planning on purchasing DRC parts. Additionally, when it comes time for my second build (which possible won't be for at least several months...probably longer), the DRC chassis is currently one of my top 3. Even if I went with one of my other two choices, I was still planning on using certain DRC parts.

So, can you be specific (hopefully, without blasting DRC)? If you prefer to not be specific in the thread, you can PM me the info. To be honest, while I've had several people tell me good-to-great things about DRC, I've also had some people taking me not-so-good things. I just prefer to make an 'informed' decision.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[xirtic]

Just curious something, considering you said you "prefer the quality of [Exotek] parts over the pieces that [you] have from Drag Race Concepts". Is there a problem with DragRace Concepts quality? If so, what parts, specifically, are your referring to.

For my first build, I'm going the typical Slash/Bandit route, using the plastic Slash LCG chassis...and, I am already installing and/or planning on purchasing DRC parts. Additionally, when it comes time for my second build (which possible won't be for at least several months...probably longer), the DRC chassis is currently one of my top 3. Even if I went with one of my other two choices, I was still planning on using certain DRC parts.

So, can you be specific (hopefully, without blasting DRC)? If you prefer to not be specific in the thread, you can PM me the info. To be honest, while I've had several people tell me good-to-great things about DRC, I've also had some people taking me not-so-good things. I just prefer to make an 'informed' decision.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

Not saying that their parts are bad... Just the comparison in the aluminum brackets and the feel of the carbon fiber I feel that Exotek is better. I have rear body mount extensions and brackets from both vendors. DRC is thinner aluminum. I am sure that it is a weight saving measure, but I rather have a bit more material to help if I crash.

If I cared about a few grams of weight, I would buy DRC. Exotek adds a few grams, but I have a hard time hitting 4.5pound minimum already... Not going to sacrifice a bit of durability.

That said, the front bumper on this ride is drc. When back in stock, I will get another for the primary no prep. It is a great piece and fits my zero degree front builds. I want to get away from the proline mounts. DRC makes it possible.

I have a 3rd build sort of a basher/no prep. It is a wide build lcg. That car will be switched to zero degree front and drc bumper, and exotek rear in the near future. The Backyard RC BULKHEAD makes it easy to run the drc bumper/body mount... I wish Exotek made one.

Xirtic

 

[Panther6834]

Instead of The Backyard front bullhead, have you considered the DRC Zero Degree Front Bulkhead. I installed it a few days ago, along with STRC steering bellcrank, DRC Zero Degree front shock tower, DRC rear shock tower, and the Exotek rear body mount. Have to admit to I REALLY like the Zero Degree front bullhead.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[xirtic]

I considered the DRC bulkhead for my primary build. At the time it was not released.

Now I could have bought it now, but I already had a lot of expensive cf xtreme rc parts up front, and DRC said that theirs required their tower... I believe that others would fit, but did not want to change it all. So the Barnyard unit dropped right in, had a body adapter to keep my same body holes, and did not require a certain tower. When I eventually find an in stock bumper, that body adapter will be gone.

Finally I like supporting the little guy.... Barnyard is that. I also ordered one of his Vega bodies.

Xirtic

 

[Panther6834]

I considered the DRC bulkhead for my primary build. At the time it was not released.

Now I could have bought it now, but I already had a lot of expensive cf xtreme rc parts up front, and DRC said that theirs required their tower... I believe that others would fit, but did not want to change it all. So the Barnyard unit dropped right in, had a body adapter to keep my same body holes, and did not require a certain tower. When I eventually find an in stock bumper, that body adapter will be gone.

Finally I like supporting the little guy.... Barnyard is that. I also ordered one of his Vega bodies.

Xirtic

DRC is also a "little guy". As for the Zero Angle front bullhead, and 'requiring' their Zero Degree front shock tower, I'm working today & tomorrow, but I can check & let you know on Tuesday. I'm not 100% certain, but I do believe the hole spacing between bulkhead & tower is the same, so I don't see why 'any' tower couldn't be used.

There are a few things I did notice. Starting with the bullhead, the pin positions for attaching the front A-arms are further out, by approx 2mm (approx 1mm per side), this widens the front stance just slightly, and also means that the steering & front camber turnbuckles need to be smoothly lengthened. Moving over to the shock tower, it is both shorter, and narrower, than the stock tower. This positions the shock mounting points slightly lower, and closer together. Thankfully, the required shock length remains the same. However, as the banner turnbuckle mounts are also closer together, combined with the fact that the stance is already slightly widened (because of the bullhead), the camber turnbuckles need to be lengthened even further.

Thankfully, as the stock A-arm position is sightly downward, and a no-prep car should have them parallel with the ground (at least, that's assumption...please, correct me if my understand it's incorrect), the turnbuckles didn't actually need to bed lengthened all that much (approx 3mm). For now, I've just lengthened them enough to get the arms parallel to the ground. If I need to get longer turnbuckles, so be it...but, for right now, I'm thinking they should be ok.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[xirtic]

DRC is also a "little guy". As for the Zero Angle front bullhead, and 'requiring' their Zero Degree front shock tower, I'm working today & tomorrow, but I can check & let you know on Tuesday. I'm not 100% certain, but I do believe the hole spacing between bulkhead & tower is the same, so I don't see why 'any' tower couldn't be used.

There are a few things I did notice. Starting with the bullhead, the pin positions for attaching the front A-arms are further out, by approx 2mm (approx 1mm per side), this widens the front stance just slightly, and also means that the steering & front camber turnbuckles need to be smoothly lengthened. Moving over to the shock tower, it is both shorter, and narrower, than the stock tower. This positions the shock mounting points slightly lower, and closer together. Thankfully, the required shock length remains the same. However, as the banner turnbuckle mounts are also closer together, combined with the fact that the stance is already slightly widened (because of the bullhead), the camber turnbuckles need to be lengthened even further.

Thankfully, as the stock A-arm position is sightly downward, and a no-prep car should have them parallel with the ground (at least, that's assumption...please, correct me if my understand it's incorrect), the turnbuckles didn't actually need to bed lengthened all that much (approx 3mm). For now, I've just lengthened them enough to get the arms parallel to the ground. If I need to get longer turnbuckles, so be it...but, for right now, I'm thinking they should be ok.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

My front arms are just a hair past horizontal... Slightly a V. My rears all end up a bit more v than the front. For my longer turnbuckles... Long revo ends. Strong and easy.



Xirtic

 

[xirtic]

Finally the front end pieces arrived.

- 4Tec Shocks with STRC bodies, caps, and cups.
- Exotek Shock Tower

I need to drill a lower row of holes to get the ride height just right... It is about 3mm too low. Might get to that later today. Everything is fitting well, shock angles are very vertical, and no contact/binding.

Xirtic

 

[xirtic]

Got the front ride height sorted out. Switched to a slightly longer rod end.

Also mounted the battery.

Custom Works makes a pretty easy solution to keep the battery from moving around.

Xirtic

 

[xirtic]

Battery mount.

Xirtic

 

[Panther6834]

Velcro straps...the solution to all your battery mounting problems, no matter what vehicle, or vessel. Also, if you ever needed to handcuff someone, forgot your cuffs, forgot your zipties, and just happen to have a worthy length 3M 'grip tape', it will serve.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[xirtic]

Got the soldering done this afternoon. Just need to ziptie the wires in this route.

Xirtic

 

[Panther6834]

It's getting there. Worked on mine today, as well, but I haven't even started on the electronics (other than the Power HD servo, and Futaba R334SBS Rx).


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

 

[Timmahh]

Looking Good. Ive considered a short tower and 4tecs it looks a little more settled in your setup.

My RedShift rig is down to painting the body and setting up mounts. I have an idea to make that work more scale-like. lol

 

[xirtic]

Looking Good. Ive considered a short tower and 4tecs it looks a little more settled in your setup.

My RedShift rig is down to painting the body and setting up mounts. I have an idea to make that work more scale-like. lol

Thanks.

I really like the short tower with the 4tec shocks. They work just like the slash ultra shocks, but less movement and easier to adjust. Also the short tower allows space for varied body mounting choices and easier to get the front low.

Xirtic

 

[xirtic]

I was concerned about weight... Not having enough. Just weighed it WITHOUT the body. 4 pounds 7 ounces. It is gonna tech just fine with a body. I am happy.

My other build with body is 5 pounds 1 ounce. I knew that Scrappy was gonna be a lightweight.

Xirtic

 

[xirtic]

It has been a while since posting status.... And season here is just weeks away!!

This build has gotten creative. I bought a 3d printer to allow me to dump the "customized" stock parts and 3rd party pieces that are just not right. First was body mounts.. They have to be strong but light. They have to cope with my zero degree bulkheads and non standard width towers that also are very short.

I also am still waiting for the body I wanted... So I compromised with the new C-10 drag body from proline. Paint should happen this weekend.

Pics of the printer, mounts, body.

Xirtic

 

[OSRC]

That's a great looking chassis! Love that the front kick up is gone... I know it's baked in since the class was born from off-road oriented vehicles, but it annoys me to no end.

NPDR is an interesting thing. High dollar rides, low buck trucks, whatever works. One of our fastest racers is a kid with a beat up old HCG slash. All he did was put on the tires, body, and a wheely bar. The rear shocks have bent shafts and don't even move smoothly, diff is wide open, no swaybars or suspension changes... but it hooks right up and hauls down the track every time. Makes the rest of us look like chumps.

 

[BJoe]

That's a great looking chassis! Love that the front kick up is gone... I know it's baked in since the class was born from off-road oriented vehicles, but it annoys me to no end.

NPDR is an interesting thing. High dollar rides, low buck trucks, whatever works. One of our fastest racers is a kid with a beat up old HCG slash. All he did was put on the tires, body, and a wheely bar. The rear shocks have bent shafts and don't even move smoothly, diff is wide open, no swaybars or suspension changes... but it hooks right up and hauls down the track every time. Makes the rest of us look like chumps.

Wonder if the HGC Chassis gives it a gasser or AFX like effect.