Just starting in rc trucks, working on an Element Trailwalker now for my main crawler. My main interest is building a military style jeep for scale work. I started to buy a Sawback years ago and never did. I saw some pictures of several on here like I have in mind building. I don't have much experience in painting but think I maybe able to get the olive drab look needed. Just wondering if the kit version needs as much work on the frame and suspension as the rc4wd trailfinder 2 does? I know the Sawback hardware will need to be changed and that's not a big deal but does the suspension need a bunch of mods just to be a trail jeep with a little crawling work thrown in? Been searching and reading as much as possible but want your guys opinion as I know you been there done that with the Sawback.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Sawback for newbie military scale?
- Thread starter NCRon
- Start date
I have two Sawbacks and one TF2. In terms of quality and performance, the Sawbacks are better in every way. For a trail rig it will do just fine. The transmission is somewhat loud. I enjoy the squeak of the leaf springs as it bounces down the trail. It squeaks like an old truck should!
I'm not sure why you think the Sawback hardware needs to be replaced. It uses Phillips head screws, but the quality of the hardware is fine.
I would recommend the anti-wrap links if you plan on doing any crawling. I've bent a couple of sets of leaf springs before I got these, but I'm hard on my trucks. Other than that they have been rock solid.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/gma30006.htm
I'm not sure why you think the Sawback hardware needs to be replaced. It uses Phillips head screws, but the quality of the hardware is fine.
I would recommend the anti-wrap links if you plan on doing any crawling. I've bent a couple of sets of leaf springs before I got these, but I'm hard on my trucks. Other than that they have been rock solid.
https://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/gma30006.htm
Thanks for the reply, and I only mentioned the hardware as I have seen complaints on the Phillips hardware. If it's quality hardware I have no problem with Phillips. I am new to kit building and mainly just going on others comments on here. I have never seen a Sawback in person just think its the best little leaf rig for the military scale i want to build. I maybe over my head building it as I don't have much experience but it will be a fall project with no rushing. Just want a start into building scale rc.
fxman
Quarry Creeper
If you don't take your Sawback apart and put it back together a lot, the Phillips screws will be fine. Spoil yourself and get Peppe Musumeci's delrin leaf springs. He lives in Italy but ships worldwide and is happy to help (info@rc-crawler.it). His leaf springs will endure more abuse.
For the olive drab: I recently started using red "Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultracover Paint+Primer". Sticks to lexan and lets you use any other color on top (such as olive drab), if you paint the outside of the body.
Too bad, I lost all the pics of my Army Sawback and later changed it into a Bronco :shock:.
For the olive drab: I recently started using red "Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultracover Paint+Primer". Sticks to lexan and lets you use any other color on top (such as olive drab), if you paint the outside of the body.
Too bad, I lost all the pics of my Army Sawback and later changed it into a Bronco :shock:.
2mtech
RCC Addict
I enjoy GMade anyway, and my Sawback kit was just as enjoyable and build-friendly as my others. I changed nothing since I also had a military theme in mind. It trails and crawls just fine. I certainly had no issues with the hardware. They say you can't do it but I shot the paint on the outside using OD camo paint from Wally World, and it's held up just fine so far.
I wanted to go into more detail with the military concept but almost everything I found for decals and accessories was 1/6 GI Joe scale so I got kind of discouraged. This was the first rig I tried a coordinated, working steering wheel on, and it came out pretty well. I was able to downsize a Dragon 1/6 WWII figure to fit; had to replace his arms with cotton so he could turn the steering wheel. You can see it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8ucDAZBhgU&t=16s
Not sure where in NC you are...if you're not a million miles away, and if they ever open the parks again, I'd have no problem meeting up somewhere and letting you check it and take it for a run. Nothing beats hands-on experience to decide if something is right for you!
I wanted to go into more detail with the military concept but almost everything I found for decals and accessories was 1/6 GI Joe scale so I got kind of discouraged. This was the first rig I tried a coordinated, working steering wheel on, and it came out pretty well. I was able to downsize a Dragon 1/6 WWII figure to fit; had to replace his arms with cotton so he could turn the steering wheel. You can see it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8ucDAZBhgU&t=16s
Not sure where in NC you are...if you're not a million miles away, and if they ever open the parks again, I'd have no problem meeting up somewhere and letting you check it and take it for a run. Nothing beats hands-on experience to decide if something is right for you!
fxman
Quarry Creeper
Like! And a good size driver too - most people use figures that are way too small. I did the same thing with mine - just had to in an open vehicle
I used that body later as an interior - you can still kinda see the Sawback in there:
2mtech
RCC Addict
Like! And a good size driver too - most people use figures that are way too small. I did the same thing with mine - just had to in an open vehicle
I used that body later as an interior - you can still kinda see the Sawback in there:
Thanks! Nice job repurposing that interior!
Yeah, I tried using an Arnold 7" figure that's been waiting for something to drive, but he just didn't look right with the 24"-to-him steering wheel. I used to collect Dragon figures so it kind of hurt my feelings dismembering this one to make it fit, but at least it wasn't a limited release guy. If you're going to do a figure in an open body rig like a Sawback it for sure needs to look appropriate. "thumbsup"
fxman
Quarry Creeper
Mine is "The Six Million Dollar Man" from Bif Bang Pow - 8" tall. Sitting, he doesn't even look that big. Originally I even used "Big Jim" figures for it, which are app. 10" tall and put their heads level with the top part of the windshield of the Sawback. The cool part about both of them is, that they have joints everywhere and clothes made from real cloth.
That's a great tip. I may have to try some of those. Thank you! "thumbsup"
2mtech that is an awesome video and the driver with working steering wheel is something I wanted as well. The scale guns are great as well, and the trail you ran is about what I had mind nothing major but still a working jeep. I saw someone posted a picture of one that was weathered and the frame and suspension was as well. With plating on the rails and other parts I may be over my head on that effect. I enjoy the building and working on the equipment more that actually driving them, just a weird thing about stress relief from day job I guess. I need to look into so much more for this project, as I am a true beginner. Scale is something interests me but haven't researched enough yet for the appropriate items needed. Just an old man who has found a new hobby. Thanks for the help guys.
Thanks for the information on the leaf springs and I will look into this as well. The paint information is just what I needed as I don't air brush stuff yet.
Got the Sawback kit in and was a little surprised with the size. Good looking kit so far but man that nickel is bright. Got to do something about that before its done. Got axials put together as well as tranny. Got the leafs installed as kit option 1 with long and medium spring setup. Got the anti-wrap bars coming later this week. I think I am going to use HW-1080 with Trailmaster sport 540 35t. Never used the HW so im sure it will be learning experience. Planning on using 2s only. Will the 540 fit without issues with the body? Also is the frame servo mount preferred over the axial mount for performance or is it just for scale looks? Trying to decide on electronics is hard for a beginner, as well as the body painting. Got a lot to do before any updates.
you'll get better performance with axle mounted servo, but i prefer frame mounted for "scaleness".
axle mounted servo
Pros:
1 no movement between servo and steering knuckle.
2 left and right steering angle easier to adjust
cons:
1 big blocky servo on axle
2 in some cases servo can hit frame/chassis in full compression
frame mounted servo
Pros:
1 hides big servo and looks more scale for "standard" vehicle builds
2 cause its cool?
cons:
1 multiple directions of movement between servo and axle causing bumpsteer (can be mitigated with 3 link and panhard setup)
2 side to side axle movement translates to lost steering angle (caused by link or spring mounts slop)
there's other issues that i missed i'm sure.
in the end this is your truck, build it the way that gives you satisfaction.
"thumbsup"
axle mounted servo
Pros:
1 no movement between servo and steering knuckle.
2 left and right steering angle easier to adjust
cons:
1 big blocky servo on axle
2 in some cases servo can hit frame/chassis in full compression
frame mounted servo
Pros:
1 hides big servo and looks more scale for "standard" vehicle builds
2 cause its cool?
cons:
1 multiple directions of movement between servo and axle causing bumpsteer (can be mitigated with 3 link and panhard setup)
2 side to side axle movement translates to lost steering angle (caused by link or spring mounts slop)
there's other issues that i missed i'm sure.
in the end this is your truck, build it the way that gives you satisfaction.
"thumbsup"
Like! And a good size driver too - most people use figures that are way too small. I did the same thing with mine - just had to in an open vehicle
I used that body later as an interior - you can still kinda see the Sawback in there:
View attachment 389144
i like.
are the inner front fender wells "Tupperware" containers?
nice work.
Thanks for that information since I am totally new to all this I will just stick with axial mount right now. I was not able to view the attachment for some reason? One thing for sure this forum is great and I'm learning so much from all you pros.
Got the Sawback kit together and waiting on electronics. Had a few issues but got it all figured out. Got to paint body next and that will be this weekend due to work schedule. Agree on the suspension doesn't have much flex built stock. Not a concern right now though as got to get the look I want first. What is the recommended upgrade on the front and rear drive shafts since folks are saying that is the weak part of the sawback?
I know everyone has seen this before just a picture to let you know its built stock. I have installed the anti wrap bars and painted the body but don't have an updated picture. I am working on stock Willys look and want to try building inner fenders as well as some additional body extras from plastic. So will be a learning experience as I have never attempted working with plastic sheets before. I know this is not an interesting new kit but its a good learning experience for a newbie.
Congrats! It's still exciting to me because I love this truck! :mrgreen:
Good to hear that somebody still likes the older kits. I got to figure out this scale stuff and how to work with styrene sheets. Also want to try the working steering wheel mod and I know this is all old stuff to the pros on here but I got to start somewhere. Thanks Jato
