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RMDW T's & T's & set up

I don't even have a Venom, yet!

But i would like to say thanks to rmdesignworks for taking to time to gather all this vital information in one place for the public good.

You've convinced me that a Creeper is worth more than it's price, and that it doesn't have any more weakness's or downfalls than my Axial. Looks like with proper assembly and aluminum knuckles/C's it is a bulletproof as I'll need.
 
Well this is my first sticky,,,sick. Thanks to Patrick for moving it so it doesnt bounce around anymore. Ill do my best to keep this thrad updated and clear of all the confusion. I am gonna go through the other tip thread and see if there is anything missing from mine that needs to be added then patrick will probably delete it.

Im not trying to take away from anyone who contributed to the other tips thread but it got all jumbled up with stuff and is very confusing.

If there is anything you would like to see added to this thread please let me know through a PM and Ill check into whatever you have.

Thanks guys for all of your support.

Thomas @ RMDesignworks
 
Venom Creeper Manual Step #6 on Page 12....

It gets talked about a lot but I figured it was a good idea to include it here too....when you are building your Creeper according to the manual and you get to Step #6 in the manual it tells how the final step in building the Transmission, which is installing the motor plate and dust cover. My manual Has a "Build Note" at the bottom of the page that you can "install the motor now or in Step #38"

DO NOT WAIT TIL STEP #38

Install the motor now while you have it loose from the chassis and can work on it and see inside the tranny a little better for getting a good gear mesh on your pinion and spur gear.
 
upper links?

I have a few ?s about the upper link set up. What is the spacing you use? are those the factory links? And last does it make a difference in your set up if you use the factory links or the longer ones link in the stage 2 kit? Thanks for response. Great info, I have learned a ton!
 
Jay2380 said:
I have a few ?s about the upper link set up. What is the spacing you use? are those the factory links? And last does it make a difference in your set up if you use the factory links or the longer ones link in the stage 2 kit? Thanks for response. Great info, I have learned a ton!
Click to expand...

Jay the spacing I use right now is 2" apart and 7/8" above stock location. I use the stock upper links and added the shorter rear lock out links to get the right length so the new longer links will be ok. dont drill your chassis though with the new links..just use the most forward hole for the rear uppers.
 
Here a couple of links from the older Tips and Tricks thread which will be deleted shortly since it is so frickin hard to read.

The old stand by method of locking your diffs. Most of use JBWeld or similar metal putty now,,but this will work in a pinch or a hurry.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178670

If you are experiencing a popping or clicking noise form either one of your diffs or both then this might answer your questions.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258458
 
I combined about all the diff lock methods together for mine. I JB Welded the gears inside the diff, lined up the locking ring and shoe gooed it in place, and added a washer between the ring and bearing.
 
I just resolved an issue with Derrek's Creeper that warrants a mention here for those who may have the issues later..or are having it now. Derrek's Creeper was having power issues,,,hold the rig in your hand and it plenty of power,,put it agaisnt something and would only go with a lot of throttle...The Problem Is Stuck Brushes.

This usually happens when the brush wires get wrapped around the brush hood on the motor bell end. Open the wires up so they loop easily from where they are connected to the motor contacts to the brushes. The grab ahold of the brush wires and pull outward on each one and make sure the brush spring pulls the brush back in easily,,,you pull the brush outward the spring pulls it back in.

If the brush wires are hung up as the brush wears out, then the brush cant move inward toward the commutator of the motor armature. Then you wind up with loss of power. if you have any question about this,,post up.
 
Rocky Mountain Designworks
Paradox Series Parts


NOTE: When ordering, on the PAYPAL form subject line, please include your item/s description and your RCCrawler.com I.D.

A list of parts and prices in the Paradox Series for the Creeper are available at the Rocky Mountain Designworks online store at Rocky Mountain Designworks. Please note that if a part is not listed please pm me for availability and price.
 
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