RC4WD 4Runner RTR Body Mounting

[rc_ox]

Hi folks, I received my first RC4WD truck this week. I picked up the red RTR 4Runner. It's a beautiful truck with lots of great features.

However I'm struggling to mount the body to the chassis. The body will not sit low enough to line up with the screw holes on the mounts. I forced it down to get it screwed in but there was noticable warp in the sides and the passenger door wasnt as "snappy" as it usually is. I don't like the amount of pressure on the body - I expect it may fail over time.

I can't see anything obvious that would be stopping it from sitting low enough - perhaps the interior or engine bay. The issue was happening before I put the fenders on too.

Is it usually a tight fit like this?

Here's a pic to illustrate the gap...you can see that it lines up perfectly - just too high

https://flic.kr/p/2pT5JeG

 

[Gula]

Your dash?

 

[rc_ox]

That's a good suggestion, thanks! I had a look with a torch - it doesn't seem to be hitting it. I did notice the motor mount is a high point. A good excuse to clock it

 

[Gula]

Can you post more pictures? Engine bay? Underneath? Front bumper, servo area? That may help me get you closer

 

[odomandr]

Was it second hand? The Hilux mounts did this when I swapped from a marlin to the 4runner

 

[rob5059]

Are you running a thick battery? A pic with the body off might help

 

[rc_ox]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

It's a brand new RTR straight out of the box, running the included nicad battery, for now.

https://flic.kr/p/2pTCCRV

https://flic.kr/p/2pTBu49

I think I may have located the hang up - the body 4Runner body mount pin is hitting the edge of the interior on one side. It's odd - everything looks square - the left-hand mount sits up under the floorboard but the right-hand mount is hitting the edge of the interior - see pic -

https://flic.kr/p/2pTiXNq

I chopped the top off both and that seems have given me a few more millimeters. It'd still like to know why it's not sitting in the same spot on both sides.

https://flic.kr/p/2pTgSgd

I also found a hot glued zip-tie (holding the lighting wires) was hitting the fuel cell, so I removed that too.

https://flic.kr/p/2pTc6uP

I can now screw the body on a little easier. And when I remove the screws, the body doesn't JUMP off the mounts as the pressure is released.

Perhaps I should consider the CCHand quick release mount at some stage? I'd rather put money towards front and rear bumpers, but perhaps the mounting system is a higher priority.

 

[rob5059]

The body sits on the rear cross member between the esc and RX box. You need to move the wires in that area.

On the body where your rear tail lights Y, check to see if it is hitting the RX cover.

I run the standard TF2 body mounts on mine, with set screws.

 

[high plains drifter]

Not sure how relevant but I put my Marlin Crawler body on mine first on one side and then the other side ( 2 set-screw mounts same time). The set screws are only long enough to capture the body but the mounting holes on mine are starting to show a little wear from pulling on that plastic so many times. With inner fender liners it takes some time to get it ready to go.

 

[rc_ox]

On the body where your rear tail lights Y, check to see if it is hitting the RX cover.

I run the standard TF2 body mounts on mine, with set screws.

Thanks! Well spotted. I removed that hot glued zip tie as it looked like it had been rubbing on the RX box. I think it helped.

Are these the mounts you are using? 1987 Toyota XtraCab Body Mount Posts for TF2 Chassis

They look longer than the ones on my 4Runner: RC4WD Toyota 4Runner Body Mount Posts for TF2 Chassis + which need the extra K10/4Runner body mount piece. If the stardard TF2 body mounts are longer, I could install them to simplify the body mounts. I'm guessing RC4WD would have done that already though

Are the set screws the M3 X 10mm Set Screws on RC4WD's site?

Not sure how relevant but I put my Marlin Crawler body on mine first on one side and then the other side ( 2 set-screw mounts same time). The set screws are only long enough to capture the body but the mounting holes on mine are starting to show a little wear from pulling on that plastic so many times. With inner fender liners it takes some time to get it ready to go.

Very relevant, thanks! I too have to mount one side at a time. It seems a little easier now that the posts have been trimmed.

I can see the red paint coming away at the mounting holes though. It's a think section, thanks to the opening doors. I'll keep an eye on it for wear and tear.

 

[rob5059]

I run the RC4WD aluminum body posts, z-s1882 with Gmade driveshaft screws GMA51306. I add a drop of lock tight once I have the pins where I want them.

 

[Speedy-Triple]

I have not looked at my TF2 lately but you might have the mounting tabs that you chopped off incorrectly mounted ... wrong side and upside down orientation (clip should have access from the bottom of the truck rather than the top blocked by the interior) ... so they will sit a bit higher from the looks and thus line up with the wholes in the body

 

[rc_ox]

I run the RC4WD aluminum body posts, z-s1882 with Gmade driveshaft screws GMA51306. I add a drop of lock tight once I have the pins where I want them.

Thank you! I like the look of the aluminium body posts - I didn't know they existed.

I have not looked at my TF2 lately but you might have the mounting tabs that you chopped off incorrectly mounted ... wrong side and upside down orientation (clip should have access from the bottom of the truck rather than the top blocked by the interior) ... so they will sit a bit higher from the looks and thus line up with the wholes in the body

You have a very good point! Even though my mounting tabs match the orientation in the manual - what you describe makes a lot more sense.

I'll see if I can flip them around when I get a chance, later today.