Powder4breakfast SCX10 II Thread

[powder4breakfast]

I'm still totally new to RC. I got a Bomber and it hooked me. I wanted another crawler and decided that a 1.9 would be cool due to it's differences.

Although my wife is in disbelief over the amount of $ spent on my Bomber, I somehow convinced her to bring me home an SCX10 II from DDM Racing (davesmotors.com).

My wife has worked at DDM for a decade and I never bought a car. It took noticing crawlers to finally get my attention. Now I have just picked up my second one this year.

I get that building from a kit is a thing; but, I felt that the RTR was a better fit for me at this point. The RTR SCX10 II is in a better starting place than my RTR Bomber was due to metal links, universals and no pressing need to figure out how to overcome torque twist. And while my Bomber was a blast to drive right out of the box, the SCX10 II is relatively better (needs less) out of the box.

I was able to bring it to Moab for it's first outing. I've been in town for two nights and drove the first night bone stock. I threw in a 7954 servo before it's second run tonight.

The 7954 servo was the only immediate upgrade I knew I was doing before I even got the car. My RTR Bomber experience told me that I needed to get rid of the TSX45 before it failed mid trail.

In any case, my first run was totally stock and I cannot believe how much fun this car is. I have trailed on Moab Rim several times with my Bomber. The SCX10 II with Cherokee body is completely different and dare I say... more fun to hike behind? The Bomber just takes on anything and I end up looking for ledges and obstacles to challenge it. With the stock SCX10 II, I was thinking about every rock on the trail. approach angles, departure angles, break over angles. I had to drive it like I would a real 1:1 built street vehicle. I kept thinking... don't smash the bumber... don't drag the rear... don't tip it over.

Some pics from the first outing:

This vehicle gives everything including the obstacles a more realistic scale view.

This project will definitely take longer than my Bomber. I will be a dead man if I spend as much money as fast as I did on my Bomber. In fact, I have no plans to do anything fast here and updates may be few and far.

Being that its a totally different ride, I want to focus on the scale aspect of this build. Add a rack, wheel wells, lots of scale extras, a Warn winch, good interior, maybe even some VP Curries (I won't even put those on my Bomber). For this build, scale looks will appeal to me.

As for function, I would like some low weight and maybe a better compound tire. I'm thinking Incision XD wheels and some softer BFG's. I may even consider Incision links eventually just to get some more low slung weight.


https://youtu.be/UYJcjjkyEvs



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Rig #1 of 2 SCX10 II
(XJ) RTR - Current as of 01/11/18

- Duratrax Onyx 3S 11.1V 4000mAh 25C battery (2 - 3 hours crawling time)

- Hitec HS-7955 servo
- Hitec aluminum servo horn
- Castle Creations external bec

- Xtra Speed metal axle housings.
- RC4WD ARB diff covers.
- SSD Knuckles (silver), C hubs (black) and lockouts (black).
- SSD Brass knuckle weights on all 4's.
- SSD Lower links.
- SSD Shock/link mounts (black).
- Pro-Line Scaler shocks

- Axial AX30708 metal transmission gears.

- Incision XD Grenade wheels. I drilled out the dimples around the outer rim to look like the 1:1 version bolts.
- Incision #2 hubs to replace the #4 hubs included. This helps the Hyrax tires tuck into XJ fenders without rubbing.
- Pro-LIne Hyrax tires. I get a tiny front rub at the right angle when flexing and turning; but, it is not enough to cause me to trim or change anything. Tires are vented with 4 small holes 90* apart. I use a soldering iron to make clean holes.
- Crawler Innovations Lil' Novas - 4.5" regular inner / medium outer front and rear.

- SSD Rock Shield Wide FRONT and REAR bumpers. These are a huge improvement regarding approach and departure angles.
- Pro-Line PL-C interior.
- Tamiya 4x4 driver.
- 3D Printed inner wheel wells front and rear. Picked up plans off Pinshape and had them printed locally.

- Night Customs rear light housing.
- Night Customs rear light lens. Painted with Tamiya clear red, clear orange and clear.
- No-name LED's all around and some AWESOME rock light pads underneath from ABELL Hobby in Bozeman Montana.
- Pro-Line 5" Super-Bright LED light bar (Curved).
All lights run direct off 3s.

Current Pic:

--------------------------------------------------------------
Rig #2 of 2 SCX10 II
(ProLine 1986 Hilux body w/ Ascender rear cage) RTR - Current as of 02/17/18

- Duratrax Onyx 3S 11.1V 4000mAh 25C battery (2 - 3 hours crawling time)


- Hitec HS-7955 servo
- Axial aluminum servo horn
- Castle Creations external bec

- SSD RC Pro44 axle case
- SSD RC Pro44 axle case rear
- SSD PRO44 HD metal diff covers (BLACK)
- SSD heavy brass knuckles
- SSD Pro aluminum C Hubs (BLACK)
- Locked Up max clearance track bar
- SSD stainless steel lower link set
- RPM (TRAXXAS) long rod ends (push rear axle back/lengthen wheel base)
- SSD aluminum shock/link mounts (BLACK)
- Traxxas TRX 4 GTS shocks

- Incision SCX metal transmission gear set

- Vanquish Method 105's (BLACK) with (BLACK) rings
- Vanquish .600 hubs (BLACK)
- Pro-Line TSL Super Swamper SL tires. Vented.
- Pro-Line 1.9" dual stage closed cell inner / soft outer foam inserts

- China metal stinger bumper. cut and re-drilled for tight close fit.

Current Pic:

 

[Xtacy33]

Pics look great and one of them you would never know it was an RC other than the pins on the roof. Must be a great place to crawl!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

 

[powder4breakfast]

^^^ I sent the picture of it going down from the side to my brother who didn't know I picked up another toy. He thought it was a full size until I told him to look closer.

I'm hoping that I can eventually hide the roof pins with a rack. I was thinking of trying to mount a Hi-Lift to the hood pins to hide them. I'm wondering if it would be weird to mount it there when I'd end up having a rack on the roof for that stuff.

Yes, Moab Rim is a very fun trail for both 1:1 and 1:10 crawlers.

If anyone here ever travels to Southern Utah for the National Parks... be sure to bring your crawlers. Lots of play area surrounding the parks.

 

[powder4breakfast]

I had to travel to Idaho Falls for work this week. The town sits in the very middle of a flat valley. I wouldn't even know where to look for crawl spots other than along the river bank near the falls the town is named after.

I was with co-worker, so we took the Bomber and SCX10 and had some fun.

Third outing with the SCX10 and I still can't believe how much fun it is in a totally different way than the Bomber.

A nice root ledge that the Bomber made with ease. I had my doubts about the XJ; but, it prooved me wrong and made the climb. Had to attack it differently and it went.

There are times when I think I really want some tires made from a better compound... and then I have moments where I'm really surprised and impressed by how well these do for stock in a less reputable compound.

 

[powder4breakfast]

I love how easy the SCX10 II is to clean and work on... pop the top. The downside to the Bomber is having to disassemble it to get inside.

I have added a different bumper with some scaled D-rings along with the JCR rack and light bars. Highlift, toe line and some shovels up top too.

My shocks were super leaky and all the way tight so I replaced them with the Pro-line scaler shocks and used the same stock axial single springs. No more leaks.

I have about 20 LED's ready to solder and install around the vehicle. not really looking forward to that project; but, I will have lights soon.

Still loving this rig so much. Other than the leaky shocks and servo that I replaced before allowing it to go out, stock is awesome.

It will be nice when more aftermarket items pop up... interiors, knuckle weights, etc.

 

[Zukiiholic]

Jeep is looking good.
Great Pics..
Have you installed a BEC yet?

 

[powder4breakfast]

Jeep is looking good.
Great Pics..
Have you installed a BEC yet?

Thanks and yes. I did install a bec at the same time I did the servo.

 

[powder4breakfast]

finally got around to connecting some lights. I did the head and parking lights along with the bumpers.

I purchased enough 5mm LEDs for the light bars as well; but, the wires will hang out from each LED and would kill the scale look. I think I'm going to ditch the Axial Light Bar (Rigid Industries AX31152) and drop in something from VP or elsewhere. I've been following the "light bar thread" and hoping to use something that will not require trimming the JCR rack. Another option is to drop in an LED strip; but, I have not been able to find one locally that is either bright enough... or correct length when cut.

I am running the lights off a separate 1300mAH 30c 3s battery. Going to mount it on the passenger side plate. Not exactly sure of the best method to accomplish this.

Also hoping to tape off and remove the paint from the tail light area. Then remove the stickers and add housings and real lights. Anyone done this yet with RTR?

Also noticed that my body was leaning and sticking in weird positions. I really liked the Pro-Line Scaler shocks on the first outing; but, seams that I've got two leakers. Pulled one apart and it was empty. Re-tightend, filled and cycled a bunch... oil was leaking. went though the same process again and used teflon tape... still leaking right down the shaft. Only put 2 or 3 packs through on these shocks.

I guess I could learn about the green goop or whatever it is; but, sucks since they are leaking off the shelf. My experience with the Pro-Line Pro-Specs on the Bomber has been the opposite. I really like the Pro-Specs. Going to call Pro-Line and see what's up.

 

[1967Typhoon]

I hate the stock shocks. I have the kit version and the pistons stick in the shock body all the time. I have the machined pistons to put in mine, just haven't gotten around to it yet. If those don't help, I think it might be time to spring the cash for a nicer setup.

 

[powder4breakfast]

I hate the stock shocks. I have the kit version and the pistons stick in the shock body all the time. I have the machined pistons to put in mine, just haven't gotten around to it yet. If those don't help, I think it might be time to spring the cash for a nicer setup.

I actually already swapped from the stock shocks. I have the Pro-Line Powerstroke Scalers. I love my Pro-Specs on my Bomber so much that I didn't even look at other brands before buying the Scalers. The scalers worked great the first time out; but, they aren't doing so well after only a few runs.

It's funny... I really liked how the stock shocks moved and articulated on the first few outings. It didn't take long for them to leak unfortunately so they had to go.

I did talk to Pro-Line today. I believe everything will be fine and will send a follow-up email tonight with the details. I don't feel that the product is bad... only that I may have received a bad set. Two shocks are fine and two are not. I have otherwise had all positive experiences with Pro-Line products.

 

[powder4breakfast]

First things first. Pro-Line sent me a rebuild kit with new O-rings. That's fine that they sent the O-rings; but, its a bit of a bummer to have to tear down and rebuild a brand new "pre-built - just add oil" shock. I am still learning that this is truly a "hobby". One must be willing to fab, solder, fix, jerry rig and so on. I understand that rebuilding a shock is easy. It's just that, like many people, I hate dealing with them. The idea of buying a shock and only needing to add oil is the cats pajamas. I hope that it is the o-rings and not a shaft, plastic or other part not included in the rebuild. Having said my $.02, I have been otherwise very pleased with all my Pro-Line products and will purchase more.

...and then I added more lighting.

Rock Lights

Picked these up at Able Hobbies in Billings Montana while there on business. Wish I would have picked up two more for the Bomber. I think they were like 5 bucks a piece

Next I added a set of lights facing backward on the rack

I am ending up with quite a web of wiring inside now and I still haven't even added LEDs to the light bars (rack and bumper) yet

Still undecided on what lighting I am going to use in the bars.

I have wires held down to the frame with zip ties which is tidy. I am using some Gorilla tape to hold the wires to the body. What is a better method? ...silicone glue?

 

[powder4breakfast]

Added 5mm leds to the small Axial light bar that comes in a 3 pack. The middle 5" light bar is made to match the JCR rack; but, I just can't accept all the wires that would be hanging out up top. So as of now, I still don't have any lights on top facing forward. The small light bar in the pack works for the front and the wires are easing to run under the grill and hide.

Aside from getting a top bar light, I also am going to start playing with removing the stickers and paint on the rear lights so I can add buckets and tail lights.

Took it out for it's first night crawl a week ago while traveling in Southern Utah.

 

[powder4breakfast]

It's been a few months since I've updated this thread although I have posted information and pics in other threads dealing with specific items I am using.

I still love this truck. So fun. Nonetheless, I have had a desire to throw $ at it for some reason. Most of the cash has gone into items to help add a bit more low slung weight. Some of those items also happen to look great like the silver knuckles and Incision wheels. I decided early on that I was going to stick with and run the XJ body. Therefore, tighter bumpers and low weight became an important topic to deal with.

I have put quite a bit of Vanquish parts on my Bomber and am happy with the product. That being said, "out of stock" is something to get used to if you want to go VP. On this rig, I decided to run a few SSD parts since they released a bunch of functional items early on.

I don't have pics of it all; but, here is a list of items since my last update:
- SSD Knuckles (silver), C hubs (black) and lockouts (black).
- SSD Brass knuckle weights on all 4's. Painted the fronts silver and the backs black to mimic disks and drums. I would like to add scale calipers on the front at some point.
- SSD Lower links. Since the uppers are already steel, I just added the lowers for weight.
- SSD Rock Shield Wide front and rear bumpers. These are the bomb. You will need to trim the back quarter panel up to match. These are a huge improvement. I will eventually run a servo winch from inside.
- SSD Shock/link mounts (black).
- Xtra Speed Axle housings. These are metal and heavy. for less than $50.00 for (2) shipped, you cannot go wrong here.
- RC4WD ARB diff covers. These kill me. How cool are tiny scaled licence'd products like this?
- Incision XD Grenade wheels. I drilled out the divets around the outer rim to give a more true look compared to the 1:1 version. I also ordered the smallest #2 incision hubs to replace the #4 hubs included. This helped the Hyrax tires tuck into the fenders without rubbing.
- Pro-LIne Hyrax tires. Awesome! These are big and I get a tiny front rub at the right angle when flexing and turning; but, it is not enough to cause me to trim or change anything. I vented the tires with 4 small holes 90* apart. I use a soldering iron to make clean holes.
- Crawler Innovations Lil' Novas - 4.5" regular inner / medium outer front and rear.
- Pro-Line PL-C interior. works great; but, the RTR transmission sits right between the front two seats and makes it a bit tight to sit low when placing the front pins in. Still works and am very happy. I have seen many others use this interior and assume it fits even better with the new tranny. Leaves a small gap on both sides and the rear. Side gaps can't really be seen with top on and the rear can be filled with more lexan if needed.
- Tamiya 4x4 driver. Trimmed the inside of the legs a bit to fit around the wheel. I think this is a very nice fit with the PL-C interior.

Aside from the mostly functional items listed above, I have put a few more scale items on. I still haven't swapped the tail lights from stickers to actual housings and I am hoping to get wheel wells. A servo winch will also be coming up.

Xtra Speed axles with ARB diffs rear

Xtra Speed axles with ARB diffs front

New shoes

Some scale items

Utah is a rad place to play with toy trucks. Capitol Reef National Park

I have never painted until I did Bomber panels recently. This was my second paint project and my first interior. I sprayed the underneath with black and then painted the seats on top by hand. I added black wash in the seams and then covered everything with Spastic Clear Matte spray after adding stickers.

Didn't know anything about painting people; but, I picked up a flesh colored paint from Hobby Lobby. I added a tiny bit of red to the flesh color to do lips and undercoat the cheeks. I added a bit of black wash to undercoat the wrinkles in the cheeks and chin etc. I mixed a few colors to get hair and then filled in the lines with black wash to give it some depth. I may come back an paint the torso like a vest ...which I think is how it is designed to be. Like the interior, I covered it all with matte when finished.

The phone is a small lego piece. I cut a small bit of navigation screen from a Bomber interior sticker sheet and applied it to the lego. I filled in the back with putty and then glued it in place.

Thanks to Amoney's build thread for inspiration to use this interior and driver. I even took the phone idea straight from his build.

Pro-Line PL-C interior and Tamiya 4x4 driver. Don't text and drive! ...getting a sweet shot for the insta-face-tweet is cool though. Using a GPS app to check coordinates like this guy is doing is also cool.

 

[EeePee]

Last edited by powder4breakfast; Today at 06:14 PM. Reason: grammer

Grammar :ror:

The driver dude looks good. Good job.

 

[powder4breakfast]

Last edited by powder4breakfast; Today at 06:14 PM. Reason: grammer

Grammar :ror:

The driver dude looks good. Good job.

Ironic? ...maybe. Funny? ...definitely. I don't think editing the word grammar will save any face at this point. I feel sheepish.

Thanks for the compliment and for pointing out the funny.

 

[andrewd]

you need a scale beer can for the drivers other hand!

 

[powder4breakfast]

Forgot to add that I picked up another II on Friday.

It has barely been a year since I picked up my first car (Bomber). In just over 12 months I have purchased 3 cars for myself and 3 other SCX10's for my parents (in their 70's) and a brother.

What a joke. Best thing I've seen so far is someone's signature from this site I think ...something like: "say it out loud to yourself ...I want to throw thousands of dollars at toy trucks."

 

[distinctive pd]

Forgot to add that I picked up another II on Friday.

It has barely been a year since I picked up my first car (Bomber). In just over 12 months I have purchased 3 cars for myself and 3 other SCX10's for my parents (in their 70's) and a brother.

What a joke. Best thing I've seen so far is someone's signature from this site I think ...something like: "say it out loud to yourself ...I want to throw thousands of dollars at toy trucks."

Lol you've got the fever now like me and many thousands of others! "thumbsup"

 

[mhowzit]

Great thread. Really like reading about the progress.

 

[chiefmasterbeast]

Great looking trucks. I just got MY SCX10-2 kit. I've spent the past few nights getting it together. Can't wait to get it outside.