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Polycarbonate paint

There's no latex in "latex" paint, hasn't been for many many moons. If weight is an issue, I would recommend against typical "house paints" as they have sooooo much solids in them for hiding properties-- and those solids tend to have names like cristobalite, mica, and silica-- they're all chock full of minerals for either adhesion, wear resistance, or sheen. "Painters" acrylics in the tube would be the better option (I assume.) I'm sticking to rattle cans because over the years, I've come to loathe painting polycarbonate bodies. A single $9 can of Duplicolor will paint 2-3 short course sized bodies. And quickly. The dry time is in the single digits, and it's fully cured in less than 24 hours-- because what's in that can is over 50% solvent.

If I didn't hate painting bodies I would be intrigued by tube acrylic, but wonder how it manages to find adhesion with no solvent. The rattle can stuff bites really hard, to the point where the spray is inside the material more so than just a coating.
 
Which kind of duplicolor is that? Anything I've tried besides RC paint came right off. Even some rattle cans marketed for plastic, I could scrape them off with my finger. The others chip off in a few runs.
 
T
If I didn't hate painting bodies I would be intrigued by tube acrylic, but wonder how it manages to find adhesion with no solvent. The rattle can stuff bites really hard, to the point where the spray is inside the material more so than just a coating.

The only time I've had adhesion problems with my method, is when a friend drove my GMade Bom off a ledge and into a 20ft ravine with sides about 80° inclined. It was painful to watch especially as the rig hit and bounced HARD twice on the way down. Some of the paint was knocked loose, but it was a simple fix, just scraped off the loose paint and reapplied some more and it was almost good as new.

I'm not by any means saying that this method is superior to spray painting, just that it's a very cost effective alternative to spray painting for those that can't, like me.
 
As there was some interest, I figured I'd share my latest project, a cab for an Axial SCX10 II based 6x6.

I wanted a camo look, so first step was to roughly design the pattern on the outside. This is done over the protective film, so not permanent. Next apply the darker color first.

IyQknPT.jpg


Each of these acrylic paints only cost 2 bucks at Home Depot, btw.

bhQfkc0.jpg


Note how all the hole are tapped over on the outside so paint doesn't spill out.

Next apply the lighter color. the one advantage this method does have over spray paints is that you can change the tone of the paint. Out of the tube, I found the sand color too yellow, so I added about 3% black which got it to a shade I liked.

D9MxbCA.jpg


Notice how after painting the finish is shiny and no brush marks are visibe on the outside.

lmB6m46.jpg


I said above that I cannot spray paint cause I live in a condo, but I can spray clear on my balcony as that doesn't make a mess. As a wanted a military look, I hit it with 3 coats of flat clear. Panel lines were added using a thin black Sharpie Pen before clear coating. PRO TIP: before spraying the flat clear transfer the wndow masks from the inside to the outside, or your windows will lose transparency.

8o6Ss0A.jpg


I next applied the stickers and added a roll bar in the back for a little additional detail and she's ready to go 8)

qy3wTtn.jpg


gdQF0I6.jpg
 
Very nice. I was just looking for options because it is too cold out to spray at the moment and I want to get a body done before early Feb.

At a minimum I might start doing this for when I lay down silver or "rust" and then paint on the outside to scratch through. Again, great work and thanks for sharing.
 
Very nice. I was just looking for options because it is too cold out to spray at the moment and I want to get a body done before early Feb.

At a minimum I might start doing this for when I lay down silver or "rust" and then paint on the outside to scratch through. Again, great work and thanks for sharing.

Happy to help! Here's the completed rig out on the trail yesterday.

4HblUts.jpg
 
Which kind of duplicolor is that? Anything I've tried besides RC paint came right off. Even some rattle cans marketed for plastic, I could scrape them off with my finger. The others chip off in a few runs.

Cans look like this:
51fgHs9FzwL._AC_.jpg


found at most any autoparts store. I have a JConcepts BAJR that I painted white with Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric about 8 years ago, and there isn't a single chip
or flake. The body is starting to show it's age, but the beating that body has taken without losing paint is downright impressive. I've done a handful of crawler
bodies with it, including a Creep and my Phoenix. They both came out perfectly and show no wear.

dHvEH10.jpg

rMkUQqk.png
 
DrIsotope, those Pit Bull Growlers are a directional tread and you have them running backwards on the black truck. Just sayin!
 

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DrIsotope, those Pit Bull Growlers are a directional tread and you have them running backwards on the black truck. Just sayin!

I haven't met a crawler tire yet that worked better or worse mounted one way or the other. But I'll give it a direct test (mounted both ways) on one of my more slippery obstacles, and see if it makes any difference whatsoever.
 
Trying to find something that works similar to Faskolor for airbrushing. Used Creatix normal paint, but it was scratching off too easily, might have been a change in chemistry. I have some Creatix automotive, maybe that will work better?

Does the Proline paint do okay?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cans look like this:
51fgHs9FzwL._AC_.jpg


found at most any autoparts store. I have a JConcepts BAJR that I painted white with Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric about 8 years ago, and there isn't a single chip
or flake. The body is starting to show it's age, but the beating that body has taken without losing paint is downright impressive. I've done a handful of crawler
bodies with it, including a Creep and my Phoenix. They both came out perfectly and show no wear.

dHvEH10.jpg

rMkUQqk.png

Yep...

that stuff works very well, and you get twice as much for half the price.

Last time I bought Tamiya paint, it was over 8 bucks a can for like 3.5 oz or something??
 
The "fancy" Tamiya colors (metallics, pearls, etc) can hit $13 for a 3.5oz. I've been at this long enough to remember being outraged at having to pay $6 a can.

I miss Pactra.
 
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