Phoenix build questions - bearing plate and diff smoothness

[chilly]

So I'm going through my Phoenix build and it's generally going well but I had two things I'm a little concerned about.

First a simple one - the bearing plates in the transmission. The kit has plastic ones that have little tabs sticking out of them. It also has nice aluminum ones. The manually doesn't show the tabs, and they are both the same shape otherwise, so I used the metal one. But I"m watching build vids now (after the fact lol) and I see people using the plastic ones. What gives?

The second is more concerning. The axles went together fine but when you spin the input shaft/diff by hand, it's only smooth if you pull on the shaft away from the axle - even though it's not noticeably loose or moving. But even the slightest pressure towards the axle (tightening the mesh) it's pretty rough feeling. Will this resolve itself during later steps? Or will it break in a bit? I redid that step twice and it's pretty simple, and it's both axles. This is the straight kit btw.

 

[twade984]

The straight axle kit includes the aluminum bearing plates as an upgrade. The portal version does not. I would definitely use the aluminum version.

It’s not uncommon for the diff gears to do that on any axle. Once the driveshaft is installed, it should keep the pinion gear from moving inward. If there is any play once the driveshaft yoke is installed, Vp typically includes a small shim that can be installed on the pinion shaft before the driveshaft to take up the play.

If you still have an issue with the driveshaft installed, then you may have another problem.


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[chilly]

Ah ok good, thanks. I guess there are a few random optional molded pieces on the trees that aren't used too.

Now I'm going to go jump off a bridge because I lost a washer in the transmission. I forgot this one tiny piece that appears to just be to retain the bearing plate in position. So I had to take everything back down, and when fiddling with it, I forgot the gears were not longer retained, and a gear slid off onto the floor. By the time I remembered that gear had a washer on it that fell off too - I spent the next 2 hours trying to find the it. It's so tiny and thin it sticks to your finger. Arrrrggggghhhhh. Was going to build today, and now I'm dead in the water because I'm an idiot.

 

[terrible]

Are you sure the spacer isn't stuck to a bearing in the outside half of the transfer case? Rub around on the inner race of the bearings and see if it is stuck there.

 

[chilly]

Are you sure the spacer isn't stuck to a bearing in the outside half of the transfer case? Rub around on the inner race of the bearings and see if it is stuck there.

Bruh you nailed it. I spent 2 hours searching, swearing, vacuuming, digging through the vacuum bag, then finally driving to the hobby store who had a 'close' sized shim from Traxxas I was going to use. Then I found it when I was reassembling.

I had looked in there, but the tricky part is that the washer is only the same size as the inner bearing race, not as wide as a normal washer. So unless, like you said, you rub it, it looks like it's not there.

So I'm back on track, and @twade984 you were right - once I got to the drive shaft steps, I see they have shims and it went together great and it's super smooth.

I had thought you needed special micro servos for dig etc, but it doesn't say anything about that in the manual. Is it just due to weight - but you can use a full size if you want? It doesn't really say much in the manual. I have a spektrum S650 that cost $3.50 from Jennysrc lol I may just go with for now if it works. It bolts in fine, but I need to get the 24mm servo horns it seems.

 

[twade984]

Bruh you nailed it. I spent 2 hours searching, swearing, vacuuming, digging through the vacuum bag, then finally driving to the hobby store who had a 'close' sized shim from Traxxas I was going to use. Then I found it when I was reassembling.

I had looked in there, but the tricky part is that the washer is only the same size as the inner bearing race, not as wide as a normal washer. So unless, like you said, you rub it, it looks like it's not there.

So I'm back on track, and @twade984 you were right - once I got to the drive shaft steps, I see they have shims and it went together great and it's super smooth.

I had thought you needed special micro servos for dig etc, but it doesn't say anything about that in the manual. Is it just due to weight - but you can use a full size if you want? It doesn't really say much in the manual. I have a spektrum S650 that cost $3.50 from Jennysrc lol I may just go with for now if it works. It bolts in fine, but I need to get the 24mm servo horns it seems.

Glad you found it! I’m all too familiar with losing hardware, Jesus clips, and all manner of sometimes impossible to replace parts.

The kit is intended to use standard size servos, and you really shouldn’t need anything substantial to operate either dig or o/d functions [emoji1303]


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[chilly]

So I think I got it all together and am pretty pleased. Went really smooth besides me dropping tiny parts on the carpet. Hardest part may have been getting the body pin in that front pivot rod! This was the first time I tried painting a body and it came out better than I had hoped - nothing like the scale stuff on this forum but for 2 cans of spray paint and some stickers on lexan, I'm pretty pleased.

The only issue so far is that I'm not getting the advertised steering angle (49deg) at least turning left, because the hub/knuckle contacts the screw head holding the panhard link so I have to dial back my endpoints. It's well short of 45 degrees. Everything works well and I don't see any other way it could go together that I could have screwed up (but maybe). Although my panhard link is at a pretty good vertical angle - almost bound up on the pivot balls at full extension. idk if that's normal - I've never worked on this type of chassis before.

Anyone else getting > 45deg? Out of the straight axle version?

 

[indybama]

In a case like that, pics would definantly help us to help u. Tapatalk app is a good one to use to add pics. I dont have the straight axle version, so without pics im no help lol

 

[B-MOW71]

Yeah, would be great if you could post pics. I have the Phoenix portal and the steering angle on it is great!

I don't have the straight axles (YET!:roll and haven't seen them in person, so not too sure what advice to give without seeing the problem.

 

[chilly]

Yeah pictures would help! I’m trying with the Tapatalk app now. I’m not sure what I did but last night it looked like it was hitting, but today in the bright light I guess it had more clearance so it actually is up around 45°. But here’s what I was talking about in the first pic, it is the limiting point for steering, where the end of the steering link bumps into the head of the screw holding in the pan hard link.

And of course a random picture of my first paint job! Plus the hidden rats nest With three full-size servos, one direct power, and vbat telemetry to my receiver. Going to see how it works bone stock and look forward to upgrading as I learn.

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[soze]

Not bad, you did pretty good!

 

[chilly]

Not bad, you did pretty good!

Thanks, had to rake leaves today, hoping to take it out tomorrow - huge high 5kmAh battery and all. Added one tiny detail… I’m a sucker for Diamond plate

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[rockspider]

... But here’s what I was talking about in the first pic, it is the limiting point for steering, where the end of the steering link bumps into the head of the screw holding in the pan hard link.

I see your problem, and really on the portals it's way different, there are on different height and does not hit.

I guess you can solve that easily, just by swapping the bolt and ball from panhard ballend with a male threaded 5.8 steel ball, commonly used on many buggy suspension and stering linkages. For sure Kyosho uses a lot of them, I remember them in the front suspension and steering linkages for the re-re 2014 Scorpion buggy "thumbsup"

Example: Kyosho SC241, 5.8 ball x M3 thread, hex driven

 

[chilly]

I see your problem, and really on the portals it's way different, there are on different height and does not hit.

I guess you can solve that easily, just by swapping the bolt and ball from panhard ballend with a male threaded 5.8 steel ball, commonly used on many buggy suspension and stering linkages. For sure Kyosho uses a lot of them, I remember them in the front suspension and steering linkages for the re-re 2014 Scorpion buggy "thumbsup"

Example: Kyosho SC241, 5.8 ball x M3 thread, hex driven

Hey great tip - didn't know they made those. Looks like it would definitely get me some additional range!

 

[tigris99]

Personally, if one has a dremel(which I do) I'd just cut the flange off the ball and use a countersunk head type screw.

Look at the desert lizard shocks, the balls they use. Flange on one side only, counts unknown head screw on the other.

Ball studs are used in Element IFS and not a huge fan partially cause of the small rod ends, but they wear and pop off under high torque.

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