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Parts bin B1b Bomber with a twist

No racing this weekend due to weather.... spent a morning re doing the wiring and layout... moved to a 90mm rear shock, also threw on some JEC Wraith stainless trailing arms off of my bomber as I broke 1 on the B1b. Hopefully the 7075's will be here shortly! New layout pics


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Really glad I went with the Wraith Length arms! Digging the 90mm/90mm shock setup. I also swapped out to the offset pill in the toe block for less castor, these changes have netted a much better steering feel. It actually is turning in fairly well. However running the standard sized 2.2 tires isn't going to be an option for me any more.

I ended up running out of talent, and clipping a big rock with the rear wheel at about 20mph:oops: Wasted the shortside rear axle.(housing/ truss/ link mount and trailing arm remain unscathed!) I dont have any spares/ LHS doesn't have them in stock. I ordered one online hopefully see it soon!

Whats the consensus on the durability of the SSD wide axle? Mainly the non through pin style axles have me curious... Also, think it's a wise choice considering It will be getting smashed into rocks at higher speeds? I realize it maybe sort of a challenge to get to work with the yeti trans, however I love a challenge!
 
Suspension test video... This is shot with my cellphone propped on a tree. Still trying to dial in the foams.

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Whats the consensus on the durability of the SSD wide axle? Mainly the non through pin style axles have me curious... Also, think it's a wise choice considering It will be getting smashed into rocks at higher speeds? I realize it maybe sort of a challenge to get to work with the yeti trans, however I love a challenge!

I realize I'm new, but the SSD wide axle is holding up for me so far. Mine came with the HD axle with no through pin. Not sure if that was a fluke or not.
But I ran into a rock while moving at a decent speed and put a nice gouge into the axle housing and I thought I for sure bent or broke the housing, but all is good, still straight "thumbsup".

Btw, I do like the low stance of your ride. I always feel like I want to go with longer shocks b/c of articulation, but in the end, the lower COG offers more benefits than more articulation."thumbsup"
 
I realize I'm new, but the SSD wide axle is holding up for me so far. Mine came with the HD axle with no through pin. Not sure if that was a fluke or not.
But I ran into a rock while moving at a decent speed and put a nice gouge into the axle housing and I thought I for sure bent or broke the housing, but all is good, still straight "thumbsup".

Btw, I do like the low stance of your ride. I always feel like I want to go with longer shocks b/c of articulation, but in the end, the lower COG offers more benefits than more articulation."thumbsup"

Sensibility outweighs post count in my opinion, so I do appreciate your first hand experience"thumbsup" I did Speak with SSD, seems they're shipping all of the new axles with the updated HD axle shafts, witch is killer! However I am still not 100% sold. I've emptied and refilled my cart at Rpp about 15 times:lmao: Going back and fourth between SSD and vaquish. Basically I am torn between getting the Vanquish V2 housing/ 4link mounts/ diff cover, and still being able to use the Dlux truss/ axial wide kit.... I'm more then happy with the plastic housing, so I am basically just trying to figure out if in the end it will make me faster or break less....

I just don't know if the additional weight is a plus or a minus for my use. Not sure I love the thought of aluminum in a truck I am building to go fast over rocks.


I found myself limiting suspension travel in the rear of my bomber to keep it from rolling in tighter corners. Finally had it to the point it just made more sense to swap to the 90's. At this point I'm not so sure I even need to run a sway bar. Truth be told if proline releases an Oversized XL Bogger for 2.2, I'm getting them and limiting my 90's:flipoff: With the 90/90 setup as is, I measure right at 5-5/8" of tire lift with all other tires making contact under its own weight. a heavy 5 15/16" without swaybar and me flexing the front arm to max.
 
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Last weekend was tough on the B1b:cry: I ended up loosing a rear bearing on the Holmes motor in a qualifier, ended up getting 2nd. Threw a new bearing I had on hand into the motor... Got it back up and running in time for our after race trail ride. I hurt the motor more then I thought as during the trail ride, the motor locked up. Upon inspection it seems the rotor magnets broke, and took the ESC with it :x. Thank God Castle is awesome! Sent The ESC back to them, and have already gotten email confirmation that it is on its way back!!! Not so much luck with Holmes.... Emailed through this site, emailed through their site, and posted on their thread. Have not received any type of reply or response. I've always heard good things about Holmes customer service, however that has not been my experience...

This week I was able to get over to the LHS, picked up some body work, paint, RR10 Transfer case/ output shaft, Vanquish Steering Bell crank and diff cover.
I ended up throwing in my spare MMX and the Puller pro standard 3500KV. Noticed the standard Needs to be Geared lower, so I went from 16/64, to 12/64.
Was speaking with a local SCT/ Buggy racer, and he convinced me to order a new motor. He has one in an 1/8th scale truggy on 4s that he let me test out, lets just say I'm pumped. The motor was about 1/2 the cost of the Holmes, so we shall see if it hold up.
 
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RE: Holmes Hobbies support - They can be a bit slow, but they will do right by you - they did by me.
 
RE: Holmes Hobbies support - They can be a bit slow, but they will do right by you - they did by me.

God I hope so... I ended up Smoking my other Holmes motor this AM. Looks like the rotor tape came apart....

gonna Order another XL
 
JRH just was on the forum a while ago, they're a bit backed up replying to emails...
 
RE: Holmes Hobbies support - They can be a bit slow, but they will do right by you - they did by me.

I agree with this. From my experience, it's taken them about a little less than a week to respond, but they've been great so far. My issues were more on the Servo though. The three PP 540 motors (not XL) have been flawless so far.

Hate to hear that you are having issues with the XL. I was contemplating getting that motor for the B2B build.
 
I agree with this. From my experience, it's taken them about a little less than a week to respond, but they've been great so far. My issues were more on the Servo though. The three PP 540 motors (not XL) have been flawless so far.

Hate to hear that you are having issues with the XL. I was contemplating getting that motor for the B2B build.

I have faith in Holmes Hobbies for sure... I ended up ordering another 3500xl this am as they were in stock! Just stinks I'm down. Both my standard and XL are broke. Just hoping either of the motors I have comming show up for this weekend.
 
While at the LHS picking up some supplies, I got into a conversation with another local racer... I went with his suggestion and picked up a Hobbywing Xerun 3660 G2 motor 3200kv. Worst case It goes into my Baja Rey when my PPXL shows up, and figured for $75 what the heck. I have used other HW G2 motors in 1/8 on road and buggy, so I was confidant in it being a very good motor. I was very suspect about it's startup while being spoiled by Holmes Hobbies motors... The motor is not waterproof, and isn't suggested for 4s, that being said, I am running it 4s, and it will get wet. I have to admit I am extremely impressed. It is every bit as smooth as the PPXL upon startup. and so far(only 4 battery packs) has held up. Using my temp gun, I couldn't get it hotter then 109*. I am running it 15/64. Size wise it is a touch smaller then the PPXL. and build quality is 2nd to none. I figure if I get 4- 5 race weekends out of it, it paid for itself being 1/2 the price of the XL.

painted the new bodywork, and ended up making a rear panel, and number plates out of old body scraps.

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Has anyone used Vanquish AR60 v2 or F9 axle housings with the Dlux truss?
 
I have v2's with the Dlux truss. What do you want to know?

I wanted to make sure that there isn't any clearance issues... That is great news! Thanks"thumbsup"

I was thinking about running a F9 "front" flipped as a rear with the Dlux truss on the top and the Axial "full width" kit. But I am not sure if I can get it to work and didn't want to guinea pig a $150 axle housing. I'm sure I can get it to work with a bit of dremel work. I like the idea of extra clearance, and lack of square edges. The V2 housing's being cheaper and a drop in, maybe the route I go.. The burn rate of the plastic housing is about 3 weekends, and I'm warn through...
 
I wouldn't bother with the f9's unless you weren't using the truss. Kinda defeats the whole purpose of the f9's.
 
From my limited understanding... it seems I would have to run the front F9 as the rear axle. The rear F9 is a 1 piece standard width axle... I wouldn't be able to use the F9 truss, as I would need to assemble the front axle as a rear(meaning pumpkin on drivers side). I dont see a rear truss available for the front F9. I was hoping to run the Dlux truss on the F9.

My reasoning is I want maximum clearance from ground to diff housing... I also want to maintain the Axial "full width kit" so I can maintain my current wheel/hub flexibility. It seems the F9 has more ground clearance then the V2.
 
I have both of them here and I don't think the F9's have any more clearance. They are both running the same gear and just big enough for it to fit.
 
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