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Official RS10 tips and tricks thread.

Picked up a used RS10 last night. Almost new, very little use. I added 3oz of lead inside each rim, removed the foams, it's got proline adjustable aluminum shock on it also. It's does VERY well set up as is, gets very good traction with dry tires. One the tires are wet, they tend to spin on the rocks. I'll do a little cutting and see where that gets me.
 
Was looking at 5 pole motors online and I remembered that 380 motors for the redcat rs10 was hard to find. I found these cheap and I think they will work.

<table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td align="center" width="29%"> </td> <td align="center" width="105%">385 5-Pole DC Motor - Bare - (Vac-U-Tug Jr. motor.) Can direct-drive most scale props to 1.75" diameter. Includes two capacitors for you to install between the housing and each positive and negative terminal. No leads.</td> <td align="center" width="19%">TG108</td> <td align="center" width="14%">$4.00</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="29%"> </td> <td align="center" width="105%">385 5-Pole DC Motor - Wired - (Vac-U-Tug Jr. motor.) Can direct-drive most scale props to 1.75" diameter. Includes two installed capacitors and two 16- gauge leads with bullet connectors compatible with most Electronic Speed Controls.</td> <td align="center" width="19%">TG109</td> <td align="center" width="14%">$8.50</td></tr></tbody></table>
 
Was looking at 5 pole motors online and I remembered that 380 motors for the redcat rs10 was hard to find. I found these cheap and I think they will work.

<table border="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td align="center" width="29%"> </td> <td align="center" width="105%">385 5-Pole DC Motor - Bare - (Vac-U-Tug Jr. motor.) Can direct-drive most scale props to 1.75" diameter. Includes two capacitors for you to install between the housing and each positive and negative terminal. No leads.</td> <td align="center" width="19%">TG108</td> <td align="center" width="14%">$4.00</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="29%"> </td> <td align="center" width="105%">385 5-Pole DC Motor - Wired - (Vac-U-Tug Jr. motor.) Can direct-drive most scale props to 1.75" diameter. Includes two installed capacitors and two 16- gauge leads with bullet connectors compatible with most Electronic Speed Controls.</td> <td align="center" width="19%">TG109</td> <td align="center" width="14%">$8.50</td></tr></tbody></table>


are you going to try them out?
 
Please update the motor list. Links are broken. Thank you for the tips.

I've long since sold my RS10, so at this point I haven't kept up with what motors do and don't work on these rigs. Hopefully someone else can keep this forum alive by tinkering on the RS10 and posting up.
 
WHere do you guys get the lead for the wheels at? hardware store or is it from a rc shop? ANd is there a way to convert to a different battery connector?
 
Try your local tire and wheel place for wheel weights. I work on garage doors for a living and when I go to a tire shop I just ask if they have any old stick on wheel weights and they give me a couple handfuls of the old weights that they peel off to rebalance . You can also buy the wheel weights if you can't scrounge up freebies like me.
As for the battery connector, you can cut the old connector off and solder on a new one of your choice.
 
WHere do you guys get the lead for the wheels at? hardware store or is it from a rc shop? ANd is there a way to convert to a different battery connector?

RC shop will help with both of those things. They sell handy weight strips that stick on your rims. You can switch to lipo battery just make sure you move one of those tiny plugs in ESC - hard to explain but your RC shop should be able to help you with the correct connector and making the adjustment on your ESC.
 
The stock motors already rub, it is a pain in the ass but there are additional solder pads on the stock motors so i was able to relocate the wires a bit. Now at least the links do not rub on the wires.
 
Just buy the desired connector online or at a hobby store and solder them on your battery leads. Be super careful if you are changing the connector on the battery though, if you touch the wires together the battery will short out and could explode.
 
so being new to the forum, has anyone considered updating these sticky posts? All the links are now broken and no longer working. Just a thought. I understand everyone is busy with other things, so if not, i get it.
 
RS10 - stretched out :mrgreen:

longer links, longer shocks, steel wheels

27545118_10213335461254594_2270405159245122160_n.jpg


26904729_10213196691545438_8642422866220954920_n.jpg


Quick question, will a 380 motor work on these axles?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I run Helion 380s - no modifications needed
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I know this is a very simple and possibly stupid question, but I am new here and look to find out how to post a image and video?? The easiest way! I have an iPhone and have been trying to figure this out and videos don’t work I link it from my instagram?
 
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