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Official MTB / Mountain Biking Chit Chat

Ffffack! You're like the 3rd person that's told me that haha. I don't have much of a LBS, which is why I ordered the cranks and pedals online to begin with. I have no problem buying tools but is it really that complicated?
 
Ffffack! You're like the 3rd person that's told me that haha. I don't have much of a LBS, which is why I ordered the cranks and pedals online to begin with. I have no problem buying tools but is it really that complicated?

No, it's not that hard at all. You just have to have the right tools and a torque wrench and a bike shop has all the stuff to do plus tons of experience. Although, a monkey could change a external threaded bottom bracket. Main thing is be careful that you don't cross thread it and use a good lube/grease. Something that's safe on every type of material that also has anti rust, corrosion, and anti seize properties. The tools aren't to expensive. Just make sure to get ones that work with the parts you have. There are some really good youtube vids if you need help.
 
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It's not that it's complicated per say if you're mechanically inclined. But rather, you need the proper special tools for the job, and if you overtorque something, you can ruin new parts, or worse, your frame. There's a reason mechanics make a living (albeit a poor one LOL) at the LBS.
 
Yeah I'm not exactly an idiot lol(well, sometimes that's debatable) I've just had a few people, even bike shop mechanics tell me it can open a bit of a can of worms with the gears and derailleurs.
 
Some external bottom brackets have spacers that have to be configured correctly when the crankset is installed. Another thing that wasn't mentioned is that the drive side bottom bracket cup is reverse threaded. Like the guys said, it's not a hard job by any means, but you should definitely have the correct tools before doing it.

If you try to do it yourself and you encounter any resistance at all putting the cups in...stop. They should go in pretty effortlessly assuming that everything is greased up and there's no messed up threads.
 
I knew one of them was LH thread just wasn't sure which one. I quickly looked through the instructions and saw the spacers you mentioned. I did see something about chasing the threads, I might look to see what a tap/chaser is worth but they should be fine. I think it was referring to a brand new frame because it talked about milling the faces of the BB haha, I got a mill but I ain't s-m-r-t enough for that kinda business.
 
I wouldn't worry about chasing and facing your frame since it already has a bottom bracket installed. It's basically to get rid of paint in the threads on a new frame and to make sure the bottom bracket shell is perfectly flat for the bottom bracket to fit against. The tools are pretty spendy...I think the Park version goes for close to $500.
 
I use to do some racing but I don't pedal around much anymore. Between military and work I haven't been able to find much time. A few picks from the past:

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I still have my old DH/DS race bike. It's an SE Racing 26" X4 Flyer with a 130MM Drop off fork, Shimano Saint Cranks and a custum single speed dual bash setup.
 
^^Yep, I love the Sherpa!! I've been drooling over a Bucksaw as well, not that it matters as they're almost vaporware. Fat bikes in general seem to have a much harder time making promised delivery dates, even the big manufacturers. Not sure what's up with that, but it's a surefire way to piss off your customer base.

Also, I'm cross posting this from the awesome thread. One from my neck of the woods. I got to meet most of these guys my last trip out to DuPont. They're all really down to earth nice guys, and all work for or are sponsored by Cane Creek.

<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/115733946" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/115733946">Church Two</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/zfhproductions">ZfH Productions</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
 
holy batman saddle bag!!!! jk. it looks awesome man. I usually install a different forks for the winter months. Below freezing temps will blow the seals right off. Rode my bike just after new years at -20 f, Too much for my old Brodie frame. When I got home I noticed that my headtube was cracked. I think it was a combination of lots of miles on the frame and 130mm forks that decided to stop working was the main problem though. Otherwise I love biking in the winter months, a whole new ball game thats for sure.
 
Borealis Bikes spun off a company called Turnagain Components which is releasing a shock seal set for the Bluto fork that's supposed to work in below-zero temps. But when it's cold like that, I'd almost rather have no suspension; the simpler the better.
 
Anybody have any experience with Jagwire Mountain Pro cable kits? It's Kevlar reinforced housings, teflon coated cables and slick lube liners. Im going to assume it comes with cables/housings for front and rear, instead of just one? I want to firm up the braking on my bike, which should also happen with the Speed Dial 7's I'll be ordering.

Or even Jagwire Ripcord?
 
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Anybody have any experience with Jagwire Mountain Pro cable kits? It's Kevlar reinforced housings, teflon coated cables and slick lube liners. Im going to assume it comes with cables/housings for front and rear, instead of just one? I want to firm up the braking on my bike, which should also happen with the Speed Dial 7's I'll be ordering.

Or even Jagwire Ripcord?

I've used and had good luck with Jagwire teflon lined, not sure it was same version as you posted, but it's been good on my bikes. "thumbsup"
 
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