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New gearbox and gear options

I think this could carry over to the super!

Yeah, I think taking these to the super could be awesome. If you used the MT gears at 6mm wide, it might be time to go higher voltage. I am not positive that small gears and shafts can hold on higher voltage and large tires but its a step in the right direction for sure.

The xr guys are going to be so jeleause, these will be the lightest axles on the market!:twisted:

Already were the lightest, now they are just cheaper. It was debatable if they were the cheapest, now thats no debate. Using these cases will save you 100's of dollars. "thumbsup"

I have a couple questions, how do you suggest coverting the berg smalls to 2.5mm, especially when using sds 300m gears? Also why is changing the mt upper link mount neccasary?
Again, I'm super stoked about this!!

If you trying to convert a stock small to the larger pin you can just drill them out with a good drill bit. If they are a Mann, SDS or CKRC small, you will need something much harder like carbide. My end mills make short work of making the holes larger. You will probably want to kill yourself if you try and drill the hardened material though.

Wow great job as always man! Cant wait to order a moded case for my rear axles! Hope those plastic gears hold up too but im not holding my breath :shock:

Yeah, I dont know what to think of the plastic gears yet. Being 6mm wider sure should help. I think they have a good shot in the rear, I would even try them in the front. Why not at $3.60?? My plan was to run plastic front and rear and then as each plastic gear strips, just replace the gear that stripped with a metal one. I would not be too surprised if you could run just a plastic 2nd gear in the front but the 3rd and 4th had to be metal. There are a lot of different combinations that could possibly work.

There isnt much question if there will be interest in these. I sent the drawing over to my CNC guy so we should have costs on those adapters soon.

I am getting quite a few PM's about these. If possible, please post your questions in here so we can all learn from them and I only have to answer the question once.
 
This also opens up the possibility for a Affordable super class rig. Imagine that! :)

Wow. I would love to get into supers with one of these. Maybe I can sell my poor try at a clod super and get one:shock:

1/8Th Mad Torque Rock Crawler Almost Ready to Run ARTR (Green)

When Tgreer told me about these I just immediately dismissed them as I thought they were just off brand, Wal-Mart type garbage. Maybe they still are, but you can buy stock replacement parts and more importantly, since you can upgrade any part on them to be a top of the line/competitive super at any point, that alone makes them worth buying.

If I were just getting into supers and didnt want to spend a ton of cash, I would get their ARTR or RTR. The ARTR is $140 and RTR is $170.

I have brought the supers up to 801 to see if anybody would be interested as they could now get into the class super cheap. I think it would be cool if USRCCA would be willing to move the minimum wheel size down so these could compete too. Supers are by far the most fun class to drive, the only thing holding the class back is the fact that you have to fully commit and spend money to get into them. These $150ish cars could change that whole class.

I looked on rcx for the plastic gears. Didnt see em under the MT parts. Are they from another exceed rig?

The plastic gears are under their 1/10 scale MOA.

40T ,42T And 48T Gears Set
 
I see there being a run on these parts. :)

Are the gears Standard 48 ptich? Or metric?
 
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I think it would be cool if USRCCA would be willing to move the minimum wheel size down so these could compete too.

You can stretch 3.2 wheels into the stock tires very easily, that's what I did.
972E040F-D633-4AF7-8159-03CE0A3514F2-2390-000004F32FC70C2E.jpg
 
I see there being a run on these parts. :)

Are the gears Standard 48 ptich? Or metric?

.6 mod. Same as Berg

You can stretch 3.2 wheels into the stock tires very easily, that's what I did.
972E040F-D633-4AF7-8159-03CE0A3514F2-2390-000004F32FC70C2E.jpg

Nice!

Thanks a lot!:roll:

I was not trying to be rude.

The point I was trying to make is that I think a lot of people will be closed minded (like I was) and I think most will be pleasantly surprised at the possibility of these axles.

Really, its more of a bash against me than you.
 
Does the plastic seem to be tough enough to hold up?

I was honestly shocked at the quality of the exceed when my friend brought it to me! I still cant understand how they can sell it for $150! Im not saying it the best crawler out there, but its a killer rig for $150 bucks!"thumbsup"
 
I was wondering about both, gears and housings. If the housings hold up to duty on your super they should hold fine on 2.2.

Anyone had the plastic gears in the exceed 1.10 rig?
 
When Tgreer told me about these I just immediately dismissed them as I thought they were just off brand, Wal-Mart type garbage.

Thanks a lot!:roll:

I was honestly shocked at the quality of the exceed when my friend brought it to me! I still cant understand how they can sell it for $150!

Come awn! :flipoff:

Does the plastic seem to be tough enough to hold up?

If it starts getting questionable after some run time, replace it for $2.50 "thumbsup"
 
One of which being 4 tube mounting holes instead of 3. So i would guess none of them line up at all and you will need to drill 4 new ones in the Plastic case. Think it will hold up all to those perforations?

I like the experiment! I'll be watching.

Drilling the holes is probably one of the easiest parts of the conversion.

You will probably want to line 1 of the 3 existing holes up on the tube to the holes on the gear box. In order to do this, you will need to grind some off the bearing notch on the tube.

You have 2 options on where to grind, top or bottom of the notch. I choose top and that was the WRONG choice. If you do the top, you end up taking too much and getting into one of the existing threads. If you grind the bottom of the notch, you will line the hole right above the notch up and then youre good to go.

In this picture you can see where I tried to notch the top and it got into the threads

100_4028_zps133e3f1c.jpg


In this picture you can see how you want to rotate the tube up, grind the notch below and line the hole up.

100_4027_zps13c1764b.jpg


Here is an overhead of how the 4 holes sit and then the other 2 holes you do not use since they are for the Berg.

100_4030_zps4652ab11.jpg
 
So you drilled new holes in your tube instead of new ones in the cases! Didn't think of it that way. Interesting!"thumbsup"
 
1/8Th Mad Torque Rock Crawler Almost Ready to Run ARTR (Green)

When Tgreer told me about these I just immediately dismissed them as I thought they were just off brand, Wal-Mart type garbage. Maybe they still are, but you can buy stock replacement parts and more importantly, since you can upgrade any part on them to be a top of the line/competitive super at any point, that alone makes them worth buying.

If I were just getting into supers and didnt want to spend a ton of cash, I would get their ARTR or RTR. The ARTR is $140 and RTR is $170.

I have brought the supers up to 801 to see if anybody would be interested as they could now get into the class super cheap. I think it would be cool if USRCCA would be willing to move the minimum wheel size down so these could compete too. Supers are by far the most fun class to drive, the only thing holding the class back is the fact that you have to fully commit and spend money to get into them. These $150ish cars could change that whole class.



The plastic gears are under their 1/10 scale MOA.

40T ,42T And 48T Gears Set

I could not find the artr ones until you posted that link"thumbsup". I'm guessing that is just minus the radio and receiver right? I could use my 6ex and be ahead of the game lol. How are the tires on these things, anyone who has one? it may be useful to make cut'n shut exceed tires to fit 3.8 wheels. They look very similar to the j concepts tires and are only $9 a pair. Very interested in the things now. Can't wait to see how it unfolds:mrgreen:
 
You could go either way. I just figured it would be easier for people to drill holes in the tube. If you do the case, you have to counter sink the hole which I didnt assume many people would want to do.
 
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