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Need some motors for your MOA? TorqueMaster Pro 540- Matched Sets

my moa's

didn't see my cost in pross of building a moa twin and also need a dual esc to runni them and 4 wheel sterring. newbee here trying first build . i have a 1/8 rock slid i love but am trying to build smaler 1/10 with 1/8 drive under it cause i can't stop the 1/8.
 
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I was curious as to what the main differences are between the standard Torquemaster Pro and the Torquemaster Pro "Team Edition"? Also if possible can you explain the benefits of the upgraded bearing? Thank you.
 
Team edition has the checkpoint endbell and produces more power.

Rubber bearings are better for dirty environments, they don't get contaminated as easy. Ceramic bearings are a higher grade and spin more freely, giving a bit more rpm to the motor.
 
not in the market right now, but in the future when i want to upgrade the motors on my 1/8 MOA(HSP) i plan to drive it in mud and water etc, would you suggest to stick to a can style motor or would a set of your motors be ok? also, for scale driving (not crawling as such) which would you suggest between 35/45t ? (its a big heavy steel chassis'ed F350 truck with 2.2 rock crusher tires)
 
A sealed can motor is much cheaper for muddy use, I say cheap and chearful is your best choice right now.

For scale driving I normally recommend between 27 and 35t if you want a bit of speed, or 45t if you just want slow crawl and super long runtimes.
 
do you do custom wound can motors? this is the first time ive even looked at motors for anything lol so sorry for the noobish Qs. id hazard a guess and say 35t is probably where im at as id like a bit of wheel speed as well as crawlability. it will have dual ESC and dual battery, so run time shouldnt be a big issue, but really got no idea at this point. truck is still being built, and atm, it has the stock HSP motors in there which AFAIK, are 27t, and it got pretty good run time on a 2000mah NiMh stick pack.
 
Can motors are cheap, handwound motors are not. RC4WD has a pretty wide selection of sealed can motors. If I am going to wind an armature, it is going into a quality can to match the quality armature.
 
cool thats a more than reasonable answer. thanks :)

i have a pair of 16 double turn motors, was going to use them, but noticed they kill the batteries real quick. sure are nice n powerful tho :)

thanks for your quick replies.
 
Ran my new 2012 Team 20T motor in my Sporty today. It ran awesome but cut out for a few seconds then restarts, it happened multiple times.

My specs.

850 3s 30 c battery (new)
Mamba Max (old)
BEC direct to servo.

It feels like a dumped Lipo but in a few seconds it's fine.

Am I starving the motor or is the old MM playing tricks?

Has anybody had a similar problem?
 
I would guess the lipo may be dumping as well. Do you have an audible lipo guard by chance, or another battery to test? Also check the voltage cutoff settings.
 
If your 20t is a crawlmaster it shouldn't be dumping the packs, but if it is a torquemaster it would certainly be able to. Packs hot at all? Hopefully just a cutoff set too high.
 
I had the same symptoms with a bad/worn corroded solder connection on an old battery, check with a different battery just to narrow down the possibilities.
 
Not sure if this is the right thread to ask this in since it is 10 years old.

I am thinking of building the current generation RC4WD MOA Competition Crawler with the Bully 2 axles. Which motors would you suggest for this? RC4WD recommends their 35T 540 Brushed motor but I would like something of a bit better quality. The gear ratio is 40.75 : 1 w/14t pinion. Thanks!
 
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I would personally use puller 400s in 16t, although 35t normal 540s are always a safe choice. We still make matched pairs of any handwound on the site.
 
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