Natedog's Honcho kit build

[Natedog]

Steering pics, didn't measure any steering angles but it is very nice. Truck now turns full circles in about 3 feet diameter. Only bummer is that my draglink is now in front of the servo horn (prolly why I bent the servo horn today) and I have lost some front suspension up travel because the buttonhead screw holding the draglink onto the horn hits the front crossmember during compression. Not sure what to do about that but it crawls great.

 

[Natedog]

Added and moved the small linkage spacers around during testing and settled on 111mm length of tie-rod = (106 + 3 + 2mm spacers). This gives a little bit of toe out which helps steering too.
Draglink ended up at 39mm = (33mm stock piece + 3 + 3mm spacers)
These measurements are just the aluminum link parts and DO NOT count the Stampede end links. Also shaved down the steel Traxxas endlink ball so that the lower side was just the ball (flange completely ground off), upper side ground to barely any flange so that there's less angle on the draglink. Then secured it with a flathead screw to give the plastic link a little more room to move on the ball.

This works very well for steering but I"d really like to get the linkage back behind the servo horn.

 

[Natedog]

My setup in post #101 worked great and has tons of steering, but I bent my servo arm apparently by hitting the link mount screw at the end of the servo arm against a rock. Unfortunately this setup requires that the draglink mounts to the front of the servo arm, right in harms way. My previous setup had this behind the servo arm....much better!

I've switched from Axial high steer to Axial standard steer aluminum knuckles with the spacers under the tie-rod that I was running with the RC4WD knuckles. Using Axial knuckles with Axial c-hubs gets more steering than any other regular (low steer or whatever) setup because of the thinner mounting spot for the c-hub to axle housing (along wtih the set screws instead of buttonheads and the thinner and slightly different shape of the steering arms on their std steer alluminum knuckles.

Been liking the new Axial Jeep JK RTR....asked for some body weight specs in other thread and got a couple replies. I don't have the new body to weigh and my Honcho is already hacked up. Thanks for replies to my other thread on the weights.

The stock Honcho body/cage with the green cab is 274g or 9.65oz with no spare tire.

The complete Axial JK body is 11.7 oz.

Equals 331.69 grams as per Gooogly

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/422152-weight-new-axial-jeep-body.html

Bought a few parts the other day, need to do some more wrenching soon... ;-)

 

[Natedog]

Sunset comes too early in winter., but I got a sweet LED light setup, just need to mount em and wire them up! 8);-)

 

[Natedog]

New Axial Jeep JK bumper installed, like em but it needs a lift I think. What sez you?

 

[federally]

Great looking bumper, though it sits way too low on the body

 

[Erin]

For the rear chassis pivot, do the bolts go thru into the spare tire area and are they captured by a nut or just screw into the cage?

Im liking this idea alot"thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Great looking bumper, though it sits way too low on the body

Thanks, yeah that's what I was thinking...need to raise it to match the body and get a little better approach angle. Guess I'll stack the two bumper mounts and brace from the side like Nissan_driver24 did with his Dingo bumpers.

Thanks for the nice side brace idea, looking through my parts box now. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

For the rear chassis pivot, do the bolts go thru into the spare tire area and are they captured by a nut or just screw into the cage?

Im liking this idea alot"thumbsup"

Thanks, the 2mm bolts go from the bottom up through the rear frame cross-member, then a little spacer, then through the cage into the spare tire area with a little flat washer and 2mm locknut. The locknut doesn't rub the spare tire and barely sticks up, works great, very strong, 2 less body clips and much faster to open/close for battery changes. "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Just noticed, thanks to whomever rated my thread! 8)"thumbsup"

My favorite spot is snowed in for awhile though.[/QUOTE]

Went to play in the snow and see how deep it is up there. Good time but it was COLD....mmm coffee...

 

[Natedog]

Did some more bed mods, should I shorten it a little more underneath in the rear? You can see that the rear of bed now matches the angle of the spare tire tread area pretty closely when the spare is mounted in the bed...what do you think?

Pic of the rear bed in original position (minus what I've cut out so far). Notched lower tubes:

Found a great new cutter, it's for cutting rubber radiator hose, fuel line etc. and it works really well, makes a very nice clean smooth cut!

 

[Natedog]

Had some good input last night and I'm going to re=assemble the bed this way and test before I cut anymore out of this area, thanks. 8) Stay tuned for more pics!

 

[Natedog]

Front lower aluminum links are getting worn out and have been getting more and more bent for awhile, so I ordered Blue Monkey titanium front links, servo plate, and steering setup. I'll be using this with the current Axial aluminum chubs and regular (low) steer knuckles for now. May buy their high steer titanium linkage and try my Axial hi steer knukcles again at a later date. Looking forward to receiving my new parts and putting them to use!

Blue Monkey RC

Vendor thread here, I really like that they make titanium links etc for standard (low) steer knuckles that many people still use as well as the Axial high steer:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chas...ng-suspension-links-scx10-honcho-rubicon.html

Got a scale addition ready to install too, deciding where to mount it. 8)

 

[Natedog]

Received my Blue Monkey RC titanium links and servo plate yesterday! Steering links assembled very easily, getting to installation and thenn on to servo plate and front upper and lower bent links. Some pics:

 

[Tmaxxed]

Really liking this build. I've been following it from the start. I used your tilt body on 2 scx10 now.

NOTErized!

 

[Natedog]

Really liking this build. I've been following it from the start. I used your tilt body on 2 scx10 now.

NOTErized!

Thanks bud and glad that you found some of this useful. "thumbsup"

I've still got stock Axial shocks that leak. :lmao::lmao::lmao: Got some good info from another thread here in the SCX section>>>>>

The part number for the bottom o-rings is axa1179. There are 2 o-rings in the bottom separated by a spacer.

Make sure to use the green slime on the o-rings when installing them and to be slow and gentle while pushing the shaft thru the o-rings.

I build all my shocks that way, but the Axials won't stop leaking no matter what. I even went so far as to slide the o-rings onto the shaft and then into the shock body and then install the lower screw on seal retainer...they still leak. I just refill them every so often, but it's a pita and messy. I removed the travel limiters which I think makes them more prone to leak because they are such small displacement that there is nowhere for the oil to go when the shaft and piston compress into the shock body, therefore oil eventually just leaks out little by little. All four of mine have wetness covered with dirt around the lower spring cup etc, I clean em off with an old toothbrush to keep the dirt from damaging the o-rings.

I used the correct axial o-rings and instead of using the spacer I used one of the old o-rings in each shock as the bottom seal and havn't had a problem with them leaking yet. I did it about a month ago and taken it out for a few good runs."thumbsup"

Hmmm...good idea I'll have to try that. "thumbsup"

I need to make time to finish my current bed mods and suspension rebuild.

 

[Natedog]

Got some new tires today! What do you think of my new front bumper height? I'ts just held in there with tape for fitting at the moment.

 

[Natedog]

Bed is done and I patched up the lexan bed from stock cage at rear. What I cut off the lexan plus a bit of Dremel and curved lexan scissors final trimming after this.

Top view of the trimmed up lexan and bed cage, drilled out holes a little and used Wraith self-tapping body panel screws...much better looking and don't strip as easily, plus one panel screw for both trucks!

 

[Natedog]

Blue Monkey front servo/link mount plate, upper titanium links with Revo ends...bent lowers coming right up!

Breaker breaker, one nine this here's the Rubber Duck, you gotta copy on me Pigpen? Come awn...
Note the extra spiral wrap single wire
CW McCall Convoy - YouTube 8)

 

[Natedog]

I like it!

1.9 Ripsaws 0.1" height difference over the Flat Irons is more apparent when mounted on same wheels and axle. New Ripsaw on left, my used cut up Flat Iron on right/