Oops...Double post.
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Natedog's Honcho kit build
- Thread starter Natedog
- Start date
Took a few days off work and met up with a bunch of buddies for a Rubicon trail long weekend! 1:1 crawlers, Razors, motorcycles, mountain bikes, beers, burgers, coffee and cookies! First day on the way in and for couple hours we got dumped on with heavy thunder showers, stood around under cover eating sandwiches. That night we had several lanterns setup while cooking dinner and several people brought out their rc crawlers for crawl around the fire ring and some of the big boulders right in camp. While I was cooking and eating I let anybody who wanted drive my Ascender and they were not easy on it, forward/reverse slams, many falls from six feet up down onto rocks and dirt, my body needs some patching and reinforcing with a little drywall mesh tape and E6000 around the bottom of the grill. I drove a little that nightm but they did most of it and drained the 4500mah battery after couple hours every nigfht. She's scraped up but nothing broken.
In camp, I replaced the rear axle housing on my SCX-10, couple nearly seized up gritty bearings, cleaned and re-lubed ring and pinion gears. Stock pot metal ring gear is worn and chipped in couple places, think it was skipping after the housing broke, before I noticed and called it a day.
Buddies were driving my SCX around camp like they stole it and finally put it out of commision for the rest of the weekend. They blew out the CVDs twice on this trip, only minutes apart and the Axial CVDs have broken pins so many times before (including a couple sets made out of drill bit blanks) that the inner and outer axles are done, the holes got wasted the last time the pins broke. I had one spare dogbone and stub axle for one side, but not the other. After letting them run it in 3-wheel drive for a couple hours, it stopped moving or steering, but the battery still had juice, might have smoked my first Tekin FXR, have to see. Broke the front body mount retention piece off the top of right front shock tower too, had to swap that out so the body would stay on properly...time for VP shock mounts.
On to the pictures.
Also went to watch the Perseid Meteor Shower, saw a few good ones but not nearly as many as we usually see, probably due too much socializing.
Everything you need to know: Perseid meteor shower | Astronomy Essentials | EarthSky
One of several friend's 1:1 crawlers on this trip, most were Toyotas.
Went for a strenuous half day hike and crawl, more hike than crawl, but scouted out some sweet crawl spots. Found a small pond and another small lake.
In camp, I replaced the rear axle housing on my SCX-10, couple nearly seized up gritty bearings, cleaned and re-lubed ring and pinion gears. Stock pot metal ring gear is worn and chipped in couple places, think it was skipping after the housing broke, before I noticed and called it a day.
Buddies were driving my SCX around camp like they stole it and finally put it out of commision for the rest of the weekend. They blew out the CVDs twice on this trip, only minutes apart and the Axial CVDs have broken pins so many times before (including a couple sets made out of drill bit blanks) that the inner and outer axles are done, the holes got wasted the last time the pins broke. I had one spare dogbone and stub axle for one side, but not the other. After letting them run it in 3-wheel drive for a couple hours, it stopped moving or steering, but the battery still had juice, might have smoked my first Tekin FXR, have to see. Broke the front body mount retention piece off the top of right front shock tower too, had to swap that out so the body would stay on properly...time for VP shock mounts.
On to the pictures.
Also went to watch the Perseid Meteor Shower, saw a few good ones but not nearly as many as we usually see, probably due too much socializing.
Everything you need to know: Perseid meteor shower | Astronomy Essentials | EarthSky
One of several friend's 1:1 crawlers on this trip, most were Toyotas.
Went for a strenuous half day hike and crawl, more hike than crawl, but scouted out some sweet crawl spots. Found a small pond and another small lake.
Hiking back almost at the "trail" head.
Leavin is always the hardest part and I'm usually one of the last to head home, it's so beautiful, peaceful in the mountains...hot coffee and couple Kashi cookies to prepare for the trip while enjoying the sunset. I love watching the colors change as days turns to night.
What's that on the dash?
Leavin is always the hardest part and I'm usually one of the last to head home, it's so beautiful, peaceful in the mountains...hot coffee and couple Kashi cookies to prepare for the trip while enjoying the sunset. I love watching the colors change as days turns to night.
What's that on the dash?
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Big Bill
Rock Crawler
Nice thread Natedog just read through most of it. I really like the first few pages where you fabbed up most if not all of the pieces you needed to change things around."thumbsup" That was one of the things that drew me to this side of the hobby when I first got hooked on scalers, making most of the parts needed to change things around. Nice photos of Cisco, I took a 3 year break:shock: from RC and I think some of the events and camp trips to Cisco were the thing I missed the most. Thanks
ah... what a wonderful view...
and then you had to go and ruin it
Thanks lol.
:lmao: I had been wading in the lake to cool off and wash the dirt off my feet (little late in the day for another swim), then had to relax and brew a fresh cup. Thanks bud, love the mountains and the ocean.
Bought this today, looking for a better head. :ror:
Going old school
Big Bill
Rock Crawler
Love the RC4WD Steelies I have used them on a lot of rigs. Usually had a problem with the fronts, if I tightened them too much they would start to bind. I thought I read that they offered a wheel with a hex instead of the cross pin setup, those I would like to see. I also used to drill and tap my cross pin hubs to 3mm the 2mm screws usually didnt last too long. Very nice, I am trying to go with some Old School ideas on my Deadbeat"thumbsup"
Thanks, I love the look too and wish RC4WD offered them with hex adapters instead of the pin drive. I already had a set of their hex adapters left from previous project, so that is what I'm using. I'm also using Vanguish 1.9 inner rings with them, makes mounting them much easier.
I used RC4WD silver hex hub adapter:
RC4WD OEM Steel 1.9 Stock Beadlock Wheel Hexes (4)
I don't like the silver RC4WD wheel hexes because all the little machined points sticking up chewing at your finger tips while assembling wheels and tires. :evil: The faux brake rotor versions would be very nice as you can see the back side is nice and smooth because the screw heads are on the wheel side, not the hub side, but these add 2mm to width on both sides, iirc the Slash front 2wd hexes add 3mm per side? This type of hex hub makes wheel/tire assembly easier because there's no nut to hold on the other side while holding everything else in alignment. :lmao:"thumbsup" I prefer the look of the little nuts on outside, they look like lugnuts. I've drilled couple sets of HR (Hot Racing) 1.9 wheel hexes that come with 2mm hardware, to use 2.5mm hardware same as RC4WD and did not end up with the sharp edges all over that the silver RC4WD hexes have. Starting at post #172 there are pics and how to drill out wheel hubs too.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/324677-natedogs-honcho-kit-build-9.html
I originally bought the silver RC4WD hexes just for the hardware when I drilled my HR 1.9 steel beadlocks.
RC4WD OEM Steel 1.9 Stock Beadlock Wheel Hexes (4)
These hexes needs to have the screw head area drilled from 0.173" factory to 0.177" to clear the slightly fatter screw heads of most 2.5mm screws...easy to do, but takes time and the hubs still have the sharp edges.
I now have all four mounted with RC4WD silver hubs drilled out, next time I'll buy their faux brake rotor hubs and go back to stock width wheel hexes instead of Traxxas wider hexes.
I'm using about 3-4mm thicker than stock front wheel hexes on my SCX10 Honcho, they snap onto the axle cross pins and stay put nicely while addling iirc 3mm width per side. RC4WD 1.9"/2.2" 6 Lug Steel Wheel Hex Hub with Brake Rotor is a great way to get hex hubs and not have fingertip eating sharp edges on the backside:
RC4WD 1.9"/2.2" 6 Lug Steel Wheel Hex Hub with Brake Rotor
FYI, the 2.5x8mm and flatnuts used on these wheels are slightly smaller wrench size than previous RC4WD steelies, I was using my 5.5mm Associated nut driver and it was too loose. Didn't find my 5mm driver and ended up 3/16" (4.7625mm) is very snug fit on the flatnuts, so maybe they are 5mm?
RC4WD OEM Steel 1.9 Stock Beadlock Wheel Hexes (4)
I don't like the silver RC4WD wheel hexes because all the little machined points sticking up chewing at your finger tips while assembling wheels and tires. :evil: The faux brake rotor versions would be very nice as you can see the back side is nice and smooth because the screw heads are on the wheel side, not the hub side, but these add 2mm to width on both sides, iirc the Slash front 2wd hexes add 3mm per side? This type of hex hub makes wheel/tire assembly easier because there's no nut to hold on the other side while holding everything else in alignment. :lmao:"thumbsup" I prefer the look of the little nuts on outside, they look like lugnuts. I've drilled couple sets of HR (Hot Racing) 1.9 wheel hexes that come with 2mm hardware, to use 2.5mm hardware same as RC4WD and did not end up with the sharp edges all over that the silver RC4WD hexes have. Starting at post #172 there are pics and how to drill out wheel hubs too.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/324677-natedogs-honcho-kit-build-9.html
I originally bought the silver RC4WD hexes just for the hardware when I drilled my HR 1.9 steel beadlocks.
RC4WD OEM Steel 1.9 Stock Beadlock Wheel Hexes (4)
These hexes needs to have the screw head area drilled from 0.173" factory to 0.177" to clear the slightly fatter screw heads of most 2.5mm screws...easy to do, but takes time and the hubs still have the sharp edges.
I now have all four mounted with RC4WD silver hubs drilled out, next time I'll buy their faux brake rotor hubs and go back to stock width wheel hexes instead of Traxxas wider hexes.
I'm using about 3-4mm thicker than stock front wheel hexes on my SCX10 Honcho, they snap onto the axle cross pins and stay put nicely while addling iirc 3mm width per side. RC4WD 1.9"/2.2" 6 Lug Steel Wheel Hex Hub with Brake Rotor is a great way to get hex hubs and not have fingertip eating sharp edges on the backside:
RC4WD 1.9"/2.2" 6 Lug Steel Wheel Hex Hub with Brake Rotor
FYI, the 2.5x8mm and flatnuts used on these wheels are slightly smaller wrench size than previous RC4WD steelies, I was using my 5.5mm Associated nut driver and it was too loose. Didn't find my 5mm driver and ended up 3/16" (4.7625mm) is very snug fit on the flatnuts, so maybe they are 5mm?
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Miller23
Newbie
Nice build thread! I'm new to the crawlers and picked up a slightly used upgraded honcho RTR for $100! This thread gives me a lot of ideas and motivation to build mine, thanks!
ussprinceton2004
RCC Addict
for $100? great deal
Miller23
Newbie
Yes, $100! Has the proline 2.2 tsl swampers on proline wheels. All aluminum links, battery relocate to the front of the truck. Needs some work but couldn't beat it for the price!
Thanks! Wow you scored a great deal!
x2 :shock:
Yes, maybe he means move it lower?
Anybody running Deadbolt body with 12.3" wheelbase?
Big Bill
Rock Crawler
My DB is at about 12".1. that is just what is came out to with the Axial Alum. link kit. Sorry I have no Green Star, so no photos. I love this rig, it just works. "thumbsup" I picked up some Traxxas links and balls that would stretch it out a little bit but have not changed them out yet.
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Thanks for input. You can get photobucket or other pic hosting site for free, upload pics there and then insert (copy and paste) the IMG link here in your replies. That's what I do.
That's what I do.Miller23
Newbie
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I didn't know the difference. All new to me! Hope to learn as i go.
No problem bud, glad to help!
SSD Saweet axle housings with VP SCX10 VVD V1-HD, some new bearings, cleaned and re-used Axial OD gears on HR locker with fresh grease! Axial aluminum c-hubs are a nice tight twist back and forth while pushing on to the housing ends fit! Using Axial high-steer aluminum knuckles. I got tired of breaking Axial CVDs all the time, so decided to go full HD with Vanquish VVDs. I used a tiny bit of black RTV to seal the diff cover to the axle housing.
RC Accessories - Axial SCX10 Parts - SCX10 VVD - Vanquish Products
SSD Saweet axle housings with VP SCX10 VVD V1-HD, some new bearings, cleaned and re-used Axial OD gears on HR locker with fresh grease! Axial aluminum c-hubs are a nice tight twist back and forth while pushing on to the housing ends fit! Using Axial high-steer aluminum knuckles. I got tired of breaking Axial CVDs all the time, so decided to go full HD with Vanquish VVDs. I used a tiny bit of black RTV to seal the diff cover to the axle housing.
RC Accessories - Axial SCX10 Parts - SCX10 VVD - Vanquish Products
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