my first losi... pix of build....

[daign]

I've been building axial kits since the original AX10 and SCX10 old school body set. While I've always enjoyed the build more than the drive, the actual process of putting something together and seeing how its engineered fascinates me. I havent seen many fully documented rock rey builds so I figured id snap photos along the build.

Losi has this gig down even if they are new to basher/scale realm. Engineering, design, materials. This thing is a step above any axial I've ever built and I've got a yeti XL kit sitting here to build next (with WAY too many hopups that are "necessary for 6s bashing"

This rock rey, I started to build only out of curiosity while my yeti XL kit hopups came in. I ended up liking it so bit, I decided to add components so I haven't rig for friends to rock hop when the yeti xl is done! This things bigger than people think.

I only added 3 hopups...

SSD 3rd member with big bearings
Losi Rear shock tower (absolute RIPOFF buy the hot racing)
Hot Racing Steering Rack

Some build pix...

The molds didnt quite work out on the brake disc holes. I had to punch out each damn hole with a sharp soldering tip :lmao:

I have been playing with the idea of painting the cage all along, but the grey has grown on me... I tried a few paints. None fit the bill IMO unless I wanted the chrome cage look which would require constant upkeep. Decided against it.

Too shiny

Montana Paints Plata silver basically came out chrome. Beautiful too! Maybe later!

we have diffs... I eventually added the SSD rear member.

Rolling stock before scale hardware (except acorns) Tires are nice, foams sucked. I went with Crawler Innovations Double Deuce Tall 2.2 foams.

love progress... AND travel! "thumbsup"

Shocks bodies are thin, feel cheap, but operate relatively smoothly. If I need I may swap these out for some RCRUN remote reservoir 103mm up front and 123mm in rear.

I assumed they were like normal shocks, and bled them normally. Then this happened. I was baffled. RTFM!

Losi put a tiny screw in the top to make bleeding even easier! Nice!

Little mockup time

I wanted to do a castle setup, but their sensored waterproof mamba x 2850kv setup didnt have a release date. I figured I needed a spare 1/8 scale setup anyway so I went with a SkyRC TS 150a and a Tenshock X802 2450kv sensored setup...

I cant STAND those damn motor colors. :lmao:

more to come....

 

[Crawler Cads]

Awesome, my next rig as well after 3 Axial builds [emoji106]
Are you locking the central diff or adding 1mill oil?
Looking forward to seeing this progress.

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[Spunkybob]

Nice build up..

I can't decide between this kit or a yeti XL.
I have a 4x4 slash with a castle 2200kv motor in it which I can use for the xl but im wondering if I want the bigger xl as this may be too similar to the slash.

By similar I'm talking size wise.. when I want something with more attitude.

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[daign]

Nice build up..

I can't decide between this kit or a yeti XL.
I have a 4x4 slash with a castle 2200kv motor in it which I can use for the xl but im wondering if I want the bigger xl as this may be too similar to the slash.

By similar I'm talking size wise.. when I want something with more attitude.

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This requires $450 RTR or $750ish with sensored waterproof components.

A yeti XL will easily cost you $1000-1500 with all the "mods" and hopups people recommend. The YXL is a sloppy flexable pig without quite a few hopups. From what I've seen of RTR footage to Modded ones. With some mods they are amazing.

My yeti XL Build is starting as soon as I finish the decals on this. (tomorrow)

 

[mond]

I've had a YXL and have an RR. The YXL is a fun money pit. It breaks all the time but also is allot of fun. The RR is unquestionably tougher. Oddly the YXL has more in common with a Slash due to the archaic use of a slipper and the two open diffs front and rear. The RR has a locked rear and a centre diff.

 

[daign]

I've had a YXL and have an RR. The YXL is a fun money pit. It breaks all the time but also is allot of fun. The RR is unquestionably tougher. Oddly the YXL has more in common with a Slash due to the archaic use of a slipper and the two open diffs front and rear. The RR has a locked rear and a centre diff.

Just the locked rear. You need to buy the twin hammers front locker to lock the center diff.

I'm building this as a RC for a friend to drive or when the yeti is too big so I'll never be competing.

Sure will be interesting to see my crazy YXL build and this compare though. I hope I didnt make a mistake. I've got nearly every hopup available :lmao:

I'm building it for 6s so i've got 3.8 beadlocks, aluminum everything, the works...

Rock Rey is just waiting on decals. Then I'll do a proper photo shoot.

One thing of note about the Baja Rey and Rock Rey. They use 5mm hex nuts. The flanges dont fit in SLW based wheels. So you need the vanquish 5mm wheel nuts....

I was bummed to see my 4mm hubs didnt fit. Lockeduprc makes a set though.

 

[Spunkybob]

This requires $450 RTR or $750ish with sensored waterproof components.

A yeti XL will easily cost you $1000-1500 with all the "mods" and hopups people recommend. The YXL is a sloppy flexable pig without quite a few hopups. From what I've seen of RTR footage to Modded ones. With some mods they are amazing.

My yeti XL Build is starting as soon as I finish the decals on this. (tomorrow)

Hahahahahahaha...I wish!

In Australia the LRR is $500 kit or $700RTR
YXL is $700 kit and about $1000 RTR.

From what I'm reading to run the yxl on 3/4s which is all I want it's the 3 bearing mod (like $2) and the BHB rear pinion mod (free) and better bellcrank ($40)

All the extra crap is just for people on 6s doing huge jumps which is what my 4x4 slash is for.

Edit: speaking of which I'm currently playing with it with my son lol.

2200kv, 3s, 17mm wheel adapters, MIP X-Duty drive shafts, E-Revo front and rear diffs... Yep for the money I spent I could have got the LRR and half a YXL.. hindsight *sigh*

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[mond]

Just the locked rear. You need to buy the twin hammers front locker to lock the center diff.

I'm building this as a RC for a friend to drive or when the yeti is too big so I'll never be competing.

Sure will be interesting to see my crazy YXL build and this compare though. I hope I didnt make a mistake. I've got nearly every hopup available :lmao:

I'm building it for 6s so i've got 3.8 beadlocks, aluminum everything, the works...

Rock Rey is just waiting on decals. Then I'll do a proper photo shoot.

One thing of note about the Baja Rey and Rock Rey. They use 5mm hex nuts. The flanges dont fit in SLW based wheels. So you need the vanquish 5mm wheel nuts....

I was bummed to see my 4mm hubs didnt fit. Lockeduprc makes a set though.

I wouldn't lock the RR front unless you're prepared for breakages. For the YXL, get the RPM arms. The stock arms break along the molding seam. 4S is actually more than enough on the YXL. Never felt the need to run more in it.

 

[daign]

Edit: speaking of which I'm currently playing with it with my son lol.

2200kv, 3s, 17mm wheel adapters, MIP X-Duty drive shafts, E-Revo front and rear diffs... Yep for the money I spent I could have got the LRR and half a YXL.. hindsight *sigh*

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Why not use a remailer service? Is shipping that crazy? The yxl box is sitting right here at about 40x24x8in

We've all been there. I built a slash 4x4 as my first adult RC when i got back into it. I dumped quite a bit into it as well. but it performed like a tank all things considered. Nice build!

If you want to recoupe some of your $$ part it out and rebuild it using stock components, sell as roller.

 

[daign]

I wouldn't lock the RR front unless you're prepared for breakages. For the YXL, get the RPM arms. The stock arms break along the molding seam. 4S is actually more than enough on the YXL. Never felt the need to run more in it.

had no intentions. This will remain essentially stock.

I need to get the YXL build going.

 

[Spunkybob]

Why not use a remailer service? Is shipping that crazy? The yxl box is sitting right here at about 40x24x8in

We've all been there. I built a slash 4x4 as my first adult RC when i got back into it. I dumped quite a bit into it as well. but it performed like a tank all things considered. Nice build!

If you want to recoupe some of your $$ part it out and rebuild it using stock components, sell as roller.

Unfortunately yes...
That is from amain hobbies.

So in Australia it would cost me $766 to get a YXL kit to australia from the US.. a kit locally is $700 + $25 postage.

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[daign]

Received the losi rear shock tower for $60. What a joke. The front screw that ties into the rear sway mount calls for a 3x20mm yet the "L" spacer isn't threaded, and is drilled for m2.5... Losi, get your quality control together... Buy the HR aftermarket stuff its cheaper.

Naturally, I grabbed the drill......

drilled out.

Rolling stock detail. m2 SSD hex bolts. Locked up RC acorn SLW hub nuts. FYI the losi rock rey and baja rey nuts DO NOT FIT in SLW based wheels. You need non flanged 5mm vanquish VXD nuts. (I thought my nuts were fine, but I could tell they hung out a bit too much and wouldnt seat against the wheel) :lmao:

SSD HD third member. Nice piece.

Really loving the way this rock rey looks without the body. I'm considering custom panels. I'm not a fan of anything out there.

You can see the wheels aren't seated all the way. note calipers.

 

[Spunkybob]

That looks awesome!!

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[daign]

Ok. The body on this thing. NOT a fan. Losi tried doing something "special" and all they ended up doing is creating a inverted bathtub golfcart 4x4 UTV side by side look IMO. Without the cage, and with smaller triangle panels out of aluminum, this cage would be killer looking.

Unfortunately the body covered it up. I have a cup racer martini decal set I was going to use, but I'm unsure about it now. I paint all my bodies after the initial coats with black to protect the paint. Big mistake on this body because the inner fender comes up so high...

Headlights help the body for sure. Use the Losi headlight decals as masks if you plan to use the LED buckets.

You see the gaping hole issue?

From the front... not as bad. in fact downright mean!

It bothered me that much :lmao: At the agreed opinion with a car buddy of mine, the gaping black fenders screwed up the look even more. I decided to paint them silver, then clear...

Damn, that LED bar needs a shade! :lmao:

Some thin black masking around the headlights will help

more to come. The SkyRC wifi programmer for this Toro ESC is a total joke. I've got 2, neither work with 5 different devices both apple and android. back to programmer cards.

Seller acknowledged theyve argued with skyRC about the modules numerous times. Not even sure why they bother selling them any more.

 

[Spunkybob]

It's looking really good.
One thing the yeti did well is the cage/body setup.

Also.. as far as realism goes.. HOW IS THE DRIVER MEANT TO SEE PAST THE SHOCK TOWERS???!!

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[TooOldForThis]

Silver is a good color choice for the kit that I haven't seen before. Goes well with the grey cage "thumbsup"

My feelings about Losi's body design kinda go back and forth. It's not the most scale design, but it is exaggerated in sort of a cartoony yet agressive way. Lets call it an "angry bathtub" :lmao:. Instead of fighting it by making new body panels, I'm thinking about adding some t-bone fins that seem to have the same silly-yet-agressive look.

 

[daign]

Silver is a good color choice for the kit that I haven't seen before. Goes well with the grey cage "thumbsup"

My feelings about Losi's body design kinda go back and forth. It's not the most scale design, but it is exaggerated in sort of a cartoony yet agressive way. Lets call it an "angry bathtub" :lmao:. Instead of fighting it by making new body panels, I'm thinking about adding some t-bone fins that seem to have the same silly-yet-agressive look.

Funny. I have a set right here as well! I also got the chassis protection.

Decals are done really happy with the results. I just have to mount the tbone parts, zip tie all the scale stuff to the cage., and add 3 amber/yellow LEDs to the front gmade round spots.

 

[daign]

Alright guys. Here's the pretty much final (minus scale details.) form.

Believe it or not, this is a HPI Cup Racer Martini Racer decal set for the 1973 RS body. It worked out perfect IMO...

I added the G-Made CNC headlights, and will be putting yellow LEDs or crees in them if I can. (5mm adapted) I also trimmed the long nose, and combined the losi "grill" with a martini emblem.

No tail lights. Will add an LED EL panel in red from one of my racing drones.

All lit up (minus the fogs)

So... moving onto the Yeti XL build. Once the programmer comes, I'll do a shakedown run, make sure this builds ready. and Try and get the YXL finished for a dual bashing session with friends.

They break it they replace the parts :lmao:

 

[daign]

It's looking really good.
One thing the yeti did well is the cage/body setup.

Also.. as far as realism goes.. HOW IS THE DRIVER MEANT TO SEE PAST THE SHOCK TOWERS???!!

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AND the freaking light bar/fenders IMO they could have angled the front shock tower differently. Set the a-arm mounts farther out, and made the entire hood cover the shock tower.

But like I said, I think the body was an afterthought and a mistake..

I wanted to add some LED pod lights, but the only place for them would be sides of the A-pillar of the cage, or on top of the fenders?

I mocked this g-made aluminum 3 aluminum can light bar up with some zip ties. Its works but required some trimming of the body where the "grill" would be... Thats ok if this didnt work out I was going to do a 2" LED bar.

 

[el_Fernando]

Nice rig dude. Now get it dirty!