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My Competition Rig “Hayward” now water proofed with pictures and new updates

iwantoffroad

Rock Crawler
Joined
Sep 16, 2004
Messages
589
Location
South Orange County













My Competition Rig “Hayward”
My Bender Sw2 buildup
Start with the best
-Sw2 chassis and there is no turning back

Electronics
Rooster –
• With silicon sealing every edge
• Ballooned
• Custom mount to chassis braces and velcro
Tq3 –
• Rear steer mod from http://www.thecrawlerstore.com/electronics.html
• Lexan antenna mount
• Mounted with stock TLT upper deck and Velcro
Hitec 645mg servo –
• Dielectrical grease on the circuit boards and wires
• Ceramic grease on the gears
• Light oil on the bearings
• Then sealed the case with silicon
• Aluminum servo mounts
• Servo arm shaved to clear the axle
• Longer screw to go through the servo arm to hold it in place.
Integy 55t lathe motor -
• With hard brushes
• Freshly cut comm
• Light oil on the bearings
• Bearings from a 19 turn motor that I had as a spare
Battery packs -
• Sanyo 2400 with dean connectors
• Industrial strength Velcro on top of the servo and under the battery pack
• Also held in place by Velcro straps
• There is a piece of plastic in the shape of an L that the battery rests on and its fitted to limit how far the battery goes so it doesn’t hit the motor or the drive shafts.
• And a OFNA 1400mah 5 cell receiver hump pack
• Run times
- Sanyo 2400 last around 1:30
- Sanyo 2400 and 1400 RX pack 1:45
Suspension
Links
• 4 links setup
• 50/50
• Traxxas Turnbuckles 105mm for the T-Maxx for the lower links front and rear
• Upper links are from the lower links on the stock TLT with Traxxas rod ends.
Shocks
• Blue aluminum Durtrax evader rear shocks on all four corners
• Losi white springs on all four corners
• Team Associated 40 weight on the front and right rear shock
• Team Losi 70 weight left rear shock to prevent torque twist
• Fuel tubing to limit the travel in the shocks so that the tires don’t rub on the fenders. I didn’t want to hack up the body.
• Shocks mounted with stock TLT cantilever mounts with o rings added to space it out



Drivetrain

Stampede Tranny
• Full Bearings
• Spur adapter
• Aluminum idler gear
• Differential locked with hot glue
• 84 tooth 48pitch spur gear
• 12 tooth 48pitch pinion gear
• Which equals a 7.0 drive ratio
• Stampede drive shafts
• The drive shafts stretched with 2 females on the outside and a male driveshaft in the middle with foam inside the driveshaft to space it out correctly below is the link to help you out
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41181
• Metal yokes with the little nub filed off on the axle end and plastic yokes on the tranny end


Axles
• Axles locked with hot glue
• Bushing because this rig is in the process of being water proofed and bearings would rust pretty quickly
• Metal yokes
• Blackfoot axles with custom spacers to fit
• And the black foot axles have been filed down to increase steering angle
• Shimmed the axle
• Going to drill thought the pinion gear to have a pin go all the way through and hold the metal yoke

Wheels
• Pede fronts on both front and rear
• Inner lip cut off
• Wheel weights 2 oz on the fronts inside the rim
• Wheel weights 2 oz on the rear inside the rim
• Star pattern in the foam
• Shallow nuts to get as much thread through the nut coming out of black foot axle shafts
Tires
• 2.2 Swamp Dawg
• Siped
• Facing the rear
• Buggy grip to soften them up a little bit
Body

• Hpi 1973 Ford Bronco Body for T-Maxx/Savage
• Painted with Tamiya black spray can
• Body mounts 22gauge sheet metal brackets drilled and filed down then body post attached to that with little square pieces of foam at the top with body clips with zip ties and fuel tubing to make it easier to grab the body clip also carbon fiber little circles cut out with a hole in the middle to put between the body and the body clip

Dimensions

• Wheelbase – 12.55 inches
• Track width – 10.55 inches
• Chassis clearance – 3.0 inches
• Height with body on – 11.0 inches

weight 5.5 pounds
 
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Looks good. Also looks like a great place to crawl.

Edit: I also happened to notice your wheel base is a little long. I's shorten it up so the rear tires sit in the wheelwells.
 
i wrote the long discription so that newbs could be linked to read this and have a good idea on what to buy.
i think it would help them a lot


brotherbjork
the swamp dawgs work well on the roks and terrain around my neigborhood
i have cut a pattern in the foam and i have 4oz stick on weights on the fronts and 2oz stick on weights on the rear and front stampede wheels single narrowed
and the tires are run facing the rear with buggy grip to soften them up

i took some work but i love the look of my rig with the black bronco body and swamp dawgs.

im sure that i could buy the moabs run them with out any modifications and they would out perform the swamp dawgs but still.

i plan to get the moabs once there is a comp near me.
 
i wanna water proof my rig a little better than it stands now

it had the reciever with the connections hot glued in place then with electrical tape around most of it then with a ballon and the wires coming out of it with a ziptie on the end to shut it and the opening hot glued.
all that inside a pencil sharpener case with the space between the cap and body of pencil sharpener hot glued and the wiring coming out hotglued so there was no way for water to get in
i didnt want to fry my electronics

my servo was water proof by

stuffing dielectrical grease in the circuit board side and stuffing ceramic grease on the side with the gears a ball bearing speed grease on the ballbearings then closed the servo case and put silicon sealent on the egdes
and it was water proof

my esc was water proof by hotglue all the edges
the one touch setup button and were all the wires are coming out

motor is fine just check the comm and brushes once in a while
and lube the bearings in the motor after every run that has seen some water


these mods worked great
i was just always worried that i would have to buy new electronics
so these mods that i plan on doing will pretty much keep me worry free about water and let me be concentrated on driving


i bought a box from traxxas to put the reciever in and it fits perfect all i need to do is hot glue the openings

for my esc i bought a small box at radioshack to fit the esc in it and i need is to cut a small opening for the wiring and hot glue that and hot glue the lid on

for my servo im going to plastidip the whole thing

and i think that i am going to plastidip the esc box and the rx box.
here is the mod ^ that i plan on doing
http://rcbros.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1259&PN=1
the how too article

then i have a submarine on wheels
 
Last edited:
.

check out rpm's rc10gt receiver box there small

nice rig

i would add some bead rings they would really set those tires off "thumbsup"
 
awsome looking bronco"thumbsup". i like the one on the rock with the rear wheel flex shot. man that place look's like a good place to crawl and hold some comps. i would hate to be caught on the top of that hill (5th pic) when it began to rain.:lol:
 
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SLIMBO5
thanks for the compliments

the place is awsome its 10 min from my house on my mtn bike but its a 2 hour hike to the top from my house because there is no were to park nearby.

goingvertical
thanks for the compliments
its a great place to hold a comp except for the hike to the trail.
i like the picture when its flexin too.
i have been mtn biking while it rains in that picture and it is pretty bad.

im going to the waterproofing mods today.
 
that looks awesome. i noticed the trail master in the last pic, that thing looks awesome. mmmmmmm me like bronco
 
trailduster79
its a great place to crawl with a 2.2 anything bigger and it wouldnt be challenging enough

Bronco
it is pretty awsome i got to admit
yeah u bought the trail master i while ago
that lil guy was awsome till i broke some parts and finding spares were nearly immpossible

my bronco is pretty sick too
im happy with it
 
Sealing electronics question from a newbi

What abou the motor? How does it get sealed, or does it not matter?

Thanks
TQ
 
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